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Replacing motor mount - pics added 1/18/08

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/18/2007 : 22:15:26

Has anyone out there replaced the outboard motor mount/bracket whilr the boat was in the water? I don't have a trailer.

Aside from the obvious, like dropping things into the water and the boat moving if I need to drill new holes, what other pitfalls can I expect? I'm thinking that will have to turn the boat around so it is stern first in the slip, and have a second person inside the boat to help with turning nuts and bolts, etc.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

Edited by - dmpilc on 01/18/2008 22:14:55

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2007 : 22:46:36

David,
I replaced mine that way last year. Pretty much just as you describe. Placing the boat in the slip stern first is key. You can then sit on the side of the slip and have at it. I had to patch and redrill my holes. Wasn't too difficult. Just take your time and the second pair of hands makes the job a lot easier.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3367 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2007 : 22:48:57

David,

I replaced my bracket while the boat was in the water and with no helper to turn the bolts !

I hooked up lines from the stern rail to the old bracket and again when installing the new bracket as a safeguard against dropping the bracket into the drink. I also installed a starboard between the bracket and the transom - those holes I drilled at home using the bracket as a template and using a pencil to mark the hole size/locations. I also put a hole in the starboard to match the existing hole in the transom for the outboard motor wires. I put 3m sealant...believe the 4200 onto the starboard and the transom and then pushed the bolts thru the bracket, starboard and transom. From inside the quarterberth area, I slipped on the washers and theaded the bolts on finger tight. I then used a an adjustable jaw wrench tightened onto a nut and wedged the wrench against the quarterberth deck or the cockpit from inside the quarterberth so the wrench would stay put and I could then tighten each bolt from the outside. Once the nuts were semi-tight, then I could tighten them some more from the inside quarterberth area without the bolt turning. That was pretty much it except for putting abead of 3M around the starboard perimeter.

If the nuts are not ny-lock (self-locking), then recommend put another nut on the threads to lock against the first nut or use a lock washer in addition to the flat washer or...wrap some tape around the threads.

Larry

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2007 : 22:34:13

Thanks, guys. I feel better about trying this on the water. Just got word today that our electric start motor repairs are complete. Time to get the substitute motor off and replace that mount.

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jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 09/20/2007 : 11:05:54

Just get the boat snug against the dock.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2007 : 23:05:09

I worked on the radio today, so I didn't get any work done on the motor bracket, but I did get to compare the alignment for mounting holes. Unless I take a different approach, I will have to fill and drill. The mount I bought on Ebay a few months ago is a Fulton mount, so I'm going to have to drill at least 3 new holes, or get a different bracket. The Fulton is rated for up to a 130 lb 2-stroke or 9.9 hp 4-stroke and has the black rubber-like board.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/01/2007 : 22:02:22

Well, the saga continues. Got the motor mount changed out Friday; was feeling pretty good about it, only had to drill 2 new holes, both on one side. Put the old mount up beside the new one, both extended down, with holes lined up and it looked like the new mount board was going to be the same height above the water. My new mount is a Fulton 1820 with 2 springs. Picked up the motor from the shop Friday afternoon and put it on the new mount Sunday afternoon after tightening up all of the bolts. Nicely balanced, but the cavitation plate barely touches the water with me on the boat at the stern, and it's a long shaft motor. Because of the shelf at the transom on the inside, I don't see how I can get the mount any lower on the transom and still be able to bolt it in. So it looks like my choices are to buy another new mount, this time from CD for $300 plus change, or replace the motor with a new extra long shaft one. Oh, did I mention that after re-installing the motor, the electric start function, which is why it went to the shop, won't work. Starts first pull on manual start, with a cord wrapped around the top of the motor like a real old lawn mower.
Maybe someone here can help me trouble shoot the motor. It's a 9.9 Suzuki, electric start, long shaft. At the shop, they replaced the CDI unit and plugs. Using a volt meter, I know I've got the same voltage at the motor that I have at the battery. But pushing the start button does nothing, no clicks, no turning over. I checked the fuse, and it's okay. Thoughts anyone?

Edited by - dmpilc on 10/01/2007 22:28:37

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/01/2007 : 22:34:16

I just looked at the box again that the mount came in. Wish I had noticed this before I installed it: the mount I bought and put on the boat, a Fulton model 1820, has only a nine inch vertical lift. The model 1810 has a 13 inch lift. Chalk this one up to experience.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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3367 Posts

Response Posted - 10/02/2007 : 05:39:01

Dunno what the issue is with electric starting the motor if you got juice running to thru the wires. It should at least click if your voltage was a bit on the low side...but you said you were not getting any signs of life. Is it possible that your motor has a safety clip that attaches somewhere near the start button and that safety clip is not on...but still in the bag or something. I know my Honda has this little plastic clip....but motor should not start manually or electric start without that clip so....I guess that kills that idea.

Edited by - on

Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 10/02/2007 : 07:57:34

David, about the starter problem... It might be that your switch has a bad connection, corrosion, or wire came loose with time. I had the exact same problem as you last year with my Honda. Check if there are two connectors for the switch. If so, unplug them, touch them together bypassing the switch and see if it starts up then. That is what my friend Dave did and determined the switch was all that was bad; a very inexpensive fix.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/02/2007 : 23:19:15

Looks like I'm going to have to change out the mount again. I found a supplier who has a Fulton 1810 mount for $275 plus shipping. Do you think I should get that one, assuming the holes line up with the model 1820, or should I get the Garhauer mount from CD?
David

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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3367 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2007 : 05:50:58

I am not familiar with a Fulton mount. I installed the Garhauer mount. I did so because it was supposed to use the same holes as my original Garhauer, have basically the same characteristics as the 2 spring model but with 4 springs and the up and down positions about the same so......it seemed to be the "KISS" (Keep It Simple Stupid)approach which usually works ...not always.

Since you are now in mid-stream with I guess holes that will fit Fulton Mounts ? so what does that leave as the undecided....the up and down travel - If it will be satisfactory ? I guess for me a big plus for going with another mount would be other people's experiences. if they had favorable experiences, then I would consider a different mount...otherwise I would stick with what others have tried just to keep it simple and ensure it worked okay.

Now if it was something like how to build an improvement onto the boat like adding a solar panel or a bunk extension, etc ...in those cases, i would also see what others have done but I would be more willing to pioneer my own way on that because I would be basically starting from ground zero anyway. With the mount...you have one on ther already...so seems like going the same way with an upgrade is easiest solution.

Edited by - on

danandlu
Navigator

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USA
167 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2007 : 09:00:28

I bought the 3 spring mount from Catalina Direct. I have a Tohatsu 9.8 extra long shaft motor. I'm glad I checked the weight of the motor, the 3 spring balance is almost neutral. The lowest setting is deep, the prop never comes out and I've been in some rough stuff. I also installed the backing kit CD sells.

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Jay Schkloven
1st Mate

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USA
84 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2007 : 09:15:48

I had a starter motor problem and I believe the motor had a ground wire that needed to be tightened. My motor mount also has the lower bolts is an awful place. I am not looking forward to changing the mount. I backed the motor mount bolts with a piece of plywood on the inside too. To keep the motor low enough in the water at slow speeds when docking, I have 8 gallons of water in one gallon plastic jugs that I place all the way back near the little shelf. This extra weight keeps the stern down even with a friend on the bow helping when docking. I move the water behind the steps when sailing. No more engine lift in reverse either and no problems when sailing.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/08/2007 : 19:13:16

On the motor issue, the hot lead attaches to what looks like a solenoid of some type, and the other side looks like it goes to the starter. It also looks like both wires from the start button connect to the solenoid. Am I on the right track so far? To test the electric starter itself, I took a wire and bypassed the solenoid by touching it to both contacts which are under the solenoid. The electric starter does work.

The motor fired up.
Now, my question is: Which is the likely culprit, the solenoid or the start switch, and how do I isolate the problem? Or should I try to just replace both?

By the way, the motor is a 1982 Suzuki 9.9, and once it starts, it runs great, purrs like a kitten, at least as much as a 25 year old 2 stroke can.

Edited by - dmpilc on 10/08/2007 19:15:35

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/08/2007 : 19:23:54

On the mount issue, I bit the bullet and ordered the Fulton model 1810 mount. I've been assured that the bolt holes match up, so that will be a much less expensive way to solve the problem, assuming the motor last a few more years before dying on me. so, in a week or two, I'll have a two week old Fulton model 1820 mount (9 inch vertical lift) available at a bargain price, if anyone needs one. It would likely work fine on a C-22, powerboat, or similar boat with less freeboard than a C-25. It balances nicely with an 85 lb motor.
Let me know if you are interested.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2008 : 22:12:22

I finally figured out how to insert pictures. Here's the installed Fulton 1810 motor mount, on 1/2" starboard.

Note the cut-out I had to do for the opening for the elec start cables.

Third pic added 1/19/08. forgot it last night.

Edited by - dmpilc on 01/19/2008 10:21:32

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2008 : 09:38:05

Tip of the week.

Whenever you install backing plates or other reinforcements, be sure to round the corners of the material. Sharp corners concentrate stress and can produce cracking. (One of the big reasons why you don't see 'square' corners on marine hardware).

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