Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Here's a few pictures of Recess when we bought her, some before and after shots:
The trailer belongs to the guy who did the bottom work. The before shot of the bottom was after spending an hour pressure washing it right after we pulled her out from over 3 yrs in the water. Also, before we added her name to the hull.
DavidP 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
Very nice!! With some effort, TLC and love they clean up well! I wish I had taken good shots of Limerick when I first got her. The boat had been partially shrink wrapped, on the hard for several years. The mildew and dirt was significant (green decks and black cabin). My son attacked the clean up with seldom seen gusto and thouroughness and over the winter we scraped the bottom paint off so we had a nice smooth surface to start from. This year we attack the electrical and, if time permits the plumbing. The longer I have her the prettier Catalina 25's look! Yours reflects your caring and I am sure she will reward you with good sailing for years to come!
We're having fun with it. Lucked out, local boat that I saw on Ebay, and a guy at the same yacht club had a trailer and did good bottom work. I just had to stay on him to get the work done. He has since moved up east. See "replacing motor mount..." thread for pics of that project. After winter is over, I'll swap out the 5hp Merc for the new Nissan 9.8 elec start.
Thanks ato all for the nice comments! Rigging seems to be in good shape, no frayed wires that I know of. I do need to work some on the turnbuckles, a few are a bit hard to adjust. Purchased boat Sept. 06, inspected the keel cable and bracket attaching it to the keel prior to launching Nov '06 and found them to be in good condition. Cable attachment bracket fairly new. I had to replace almost all of the running rigging when we bought her. Came with main, jib, and an older genoa. Sent main and genoa to Sail Care for refurbishing, and they did a good job. Found a used genoa on internet and bought it last week. Ordered a Rolly Tasker new 135% full-hoist genoa from National Sail Supply in Brooksville, FL. Should arrive in about 5-6 weeks. I've got a separate concurrent thread about adapting a powerboat cover to the C-25, in the General forum section. Took pics today, will upload them tonight or tomorrow. Next big project will probably be recovering the cushions inside the boat. Got to find the right material first.
"I do need to work some on the turnbuckles, a few are a bit hard to adjust."
If they are the old stainless steel 'closed body' (tubular) style turnbuckles, replace them with open body bronze... the stainless turnbuckle bodies and stainless shroud ends will gall and sieze up. Not a pretty thing when that happens as it often ruins the shroud end. :>(
I still have some of the closed body ones on our C-22. however, on the C-25, they are all open body. Probably just need to be taken apart and cleaned/lubed.
Beautiful boat David. Just a note on the standing rigging...I was always on the lookout for frayed wires and other signs of wear. Recently, an experienced sailor pointed my attention to the swedge fittings. There were cracks in the majority of my fittings. Needless to say, I've just put the Mighty M back in the water after a major refit...standing rigging, running rigging (no more wire to line halyard) motor mount, gudgeons, harken furler...and am now preparing for my circumnavigation.
I also put a dab of nail polish at the joint where the cable enters the turnbuckle. If ever you see a space where the nail polish/turnbuckle joint was then understand that the cable is coming loose and needs replacement.
David: Do you know the vintage of the standing rigging? If original, 25 years (?) is well past its recommended life. SS wire can develop "crevice corrosion" down inside the swage--the same thing that caused Don's cracks--you won't see it till the shroud lets go. The only way to spot it is with an x-ray, which is way too expensive to make sense for our boats. You have some advantage in fresh water, but only up to a point. Again, if it's original, you'll <i>probably</i> be OK for a while, but just <i>probably</i>.
I should think that it is the original rigging. I'll be sure to give it a good look-over before summer, just to be safe. Any idea what a new set of shrouds will cost?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.