Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
ok about to tackle another week on the new boat and I have found the galley sink slow to drain. The reason i believe is a plastic regulator in the line by the sea cock. Any thoughts? Is the regulator normal?
Hi Eric, I don't remember a check valve between the sink and the thru hull valve. Snickerdoodle didn't come with one (I've owned her since brand new). There was a check valve however on the icebox drain line though. One problem is, of course, that the drain line is pretty small diameter hose. AND, Catalina did use in the mid-eighties a sink drain fitting that was more restrictive than on later models. A wider sink drain fitting was used starting with around hull #4800 or so.
If you have a check valve between the sink and the thru hull valve, maybe try taking it out of the line and "re-plumb" with a straight connector. See what happens.
Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839
PS - I took the check valve out of the icebox drain line and replaced that check valve with an in-line bronze ball valve many years ago. The icebox drains when I want it to drain (simply open the valve) and outside water does not flow into the icebox if the valve is closed - which is most of the time.
As best I remember, mine is one drain each on the sink and "icebox" (which has the check valve) and then they "Y" together and then to a through hull with a cutoff valve. The check valve was to prevent dirty sink water from going into the "icebox", and I think these check valves as well as the "Y" as well as the outside of the through hull get clogged.
I also would rather have the ball valve on the icebox (bait box) drain.
I'm kinda new on this. Do the drains go straight thru the hull? Is that legal? I have a self contained porta potty so I don't have to worry about all that but about sink drains I'm unsure. Didn't want to start a new thread, just wanted to hi-jack this one. Haven't had my boat in the water yet.
I removed the water tank and use that space for storage. I permanently closed the through hull under the sink/icebox. I use the "icebox" for storing dry food and rum, Baileys, things like that. I don't use the sink except to store the coffee pot and a big jug of water. I wash dishes in a plastic washbin that is stored on top of the "icebox" (it won't slide off). When not in use, the washbin holds the coffee, a couple of mugs, and some snacks like M&Ms. I just dump the washbin overboard after washing dishes. I don't have the 2nd sink, that is a hanging locker on my boat, which stores foulies, jacket, sweatshirt, and also has the first aid kit at the bottom.
I bought a 12 vdc electric cooler which I use instead of the "ice box". I plug this in at home 2 days before the trip and also put 2, 1/2 gallon juice bottles with frozen water in before the trip. Works great. Only has to be plugged in once in a while (like when motoring).
Ok my hull is 4849 so the restictor is on the ice box. What inline ball vavle are you guys talking about? Can you link it? Can I sent drain cleaner through the restirctor that I have now to clean it?
This problem is common. Its a lousy set up of a drain system part because of the small drain lines, the clogged/rusted check valve and the fact that the sink is not that much higher than the waterline and also that the thru -hull exit is underwater. On most powerboats the Grey water exits the boat just above the waterline so the exiting water doesn't have to fight the pressure of the sea water trying to come up the thru-hull. I took a signal horn ( the pressurized hand held ones) and put the horn over the sink drain while putting a thumb over the icebox drain to close it off and then gave it a long blast. Then I did the same for the icebox. It definitely drained better after. Around here sink water/Grey water is allowed to be dumped overboard although I'm not sure about lakes .
great idea...a simple plunger is as good I'd imagine...we just replaced both to hulls w/ thru hulls and the drain lines too...I added screens to both basins and the cooler...
<< I'm kinda new on this. Do the drains go straight thru the hull? >>
The drains go to a "through hull" but they have a cut off valve on them. When you sail the opening is below the waterline when that side is down, so water could come into the icebox and sink if the cutoff was open, but mostly to the icebox, as the sink would be higher. They had a "check valve" or a plastic In-line Non-Return Valve on the line to the baitbox (icebox).
I'd like to replace those lines, and put in a new check valve. But I have yet to put the specs together for the sizes for the line/checkvalve/cutoff.
I'm still looking at my options: cut and plug, or replace.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">pump for the inflatable dingy<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> You need higher pressure, that is probably a high volume low pressure pump. I think it might have been Bristle who mentioned that a year or so ago too, and I tried it then with good results. I keep a short handled plunger onboard that works well, but I tried the horn for grins. The check valve prevents the sink from draining into the cooler, a more common occurrence, I think, than outside water back-flowing into the cooler. Its secondary function is to let cold water and air flow continuously out of the cooler so your ice can melt really fast. I think a manual shut-off is a very good solution.
So guys, when you talk about a small diameter drain hose for the sink drain, how small are you talking about? I have an old Cat 25 that had the original gate valve/thru hull arrangement which I just replaced with a real sea cock. In the original setup, the pipe coming out of the gate valve teed and one side went to the sink drain and the other when to another gate valve and then up to the ice box drain. You can all imagine why the second gate valve. In any case, the size line between my 3/4" sea cock and the sink is 3/4" rubber hose. I don't really call that "small". It could be that POs changed things from the factory original but I doubt the 3/4" gate valve/thru hull had ever been changed. To answer the original posters question (as I understood it) with the gate valve or seacock open, assuming it is opening all the way - and that might be your problem right there - you should be able to push a wire all the way from the sink to the outside of the boat and move any obstruction in between. As to the question about draining gray water directly into the environment, I am pretty sure that only black water (i.e. potty sewage) cannot be drained directly to the environment within the 3 mile limit. Sink drainage is OK.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Sink drainage is OK<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> For the moment in most areas, but it is being reviewed by the EPA
Its not so much the fault of the lines,hoses or check valves as it is the fact that the water drains out of the boat at the bottom of the hull. The hose is full of sea water up to the waterline and the sink is not much higher than that. So say the hose has a foot or so of sea water in it well if you had to put your mouth on that hose and try to blow that water out of the line (Don't do this of course) you would see that it would take a hefty blow do do this so the little water in your sink doesn't have any pressure behind it so it must rely on gravity and its own weight to try and push its way out. This just takes its own sweet time until the water finally drains down the hose and stops when it is at the waterline. Next time the boat is hauled, pour some water in the sink. It will run freely out of the boat. Was I the only guy that payed attention to Mister Wizard?
Another obstacle is any upward "loop" that can trap air in the drain hose, such that the water in the sink must push the air down and out before it will flow. I used a couple of wooden blocks to prop the hose in strategic locations so it was all down hill to the seacock.
Also, the icebox can have the effect of reducing what plumbers call the "head" (effective vertical pressure) from the sink. Bill's shutoff for the icebox should help (if you really need a draining icebox).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.