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Mooring Cleat upgrade, filling-in holes question.

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/15/2011 : 09:18:37

Well boys and girls, today's project is a mooring cleat upgrade.

For some reason my boat has two different cleats.

This plated, pitted, undersized, POS on the bow:

And this somewhat stock looking, but just as undersized cleat on the stern:

I have acquired these beautiful 8" 316 SS cleats from of all places Lowes. At the low low price of 11 bucks each.

When I replace the cleats, I will have some 1/4" holes to fill. I am thinking of using Marinetex, but wondered if anybody had any other recommendations. The holes will be partially obscured by the new cleats, so I don't think there will be a cosmetic issue.
Any advice?

Davy J

2005 Gemini 105Mc
PO 1987 C25 #5509 SR/SK
Tampa Bay

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3368 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2011 : 09:47:29

Marine tex is probably fine to use. More important would be to ensure a backing plate is used that allows the stresses to be absorbed by a much wider area.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2011 : 09:56:35

MarineTex would be fine, but leave a dimple and fill with gelcoat. Epoxy and UV are not friends.

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3474 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2011 : 10:35:55

Yepper... I hear'ed marine tex is pretty hard and more difficult to sand, so it would be fine to push into the hole and put jellcoat over it.

The POS cleats ( the second one you have shown, original to the boat ) is a good cleat for the application. The reason they are so low is they rarely hang up a line on them by accident. ( or catch a toe/foot/hand/finger )

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2011 : 11:25:13

I think I'd start by taping the undersides of the holes and pouring in some penetrating epoxy (like Git-Rot) and let it soak in to seal the core. Then I'd fill with slightly thickened normal epoxy and cover with gelcoat patch (that you can get in a tube). Marine Tex is like putty, and might not do well filling skinny holes like that. The reason for the penetrating epoxy is that any crack or void in the filler and/or gelcoat could let moisture in. Furthermore, it might have already happened if the cleats weren't properly bedded--a real possibility with that replacement on your bow.

Are you up on how to "properly" bed deck hardware?

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 02/15/2011 11:28:08

skybird
Navigator

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USA
135 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2011 : 20:36:40

While repairing a PO applied gouge all the way down to glass fiber, I discovered that it is easier to get high spots in my marinetex leveled out with a 1" sharp chisel, then final sand with wet 600 grit. I hate sanding and was afraid i would take off too much gelcoat while working on the marinetex.

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3474 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2011 : 06:42:08

Marine tex is really a bit hard. I'd go with resin or gel coat. Word I heard is Marine Tex came out to help will filling aluminum, and hard enough to keep the aluminum cracks ( or patch ) still and stable.

my 2 cents and worth what you paid for it...

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2011 : 08:26:59

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">More important would be to ensure a backing plate is used <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The plan is to fabricate an aluminum backing plate similar to what is used currently.
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I think I'd start by taping the undersides of the holes and pouring in some penetrating epoxy (like Git-Rot) and let it soak in to seal the core. Then I'd fill with slightly thickened normal epoxy and cover with gelcoat patch (that you can get in a tube). Marine Tex is like putty, and might not do well filling skinny holes like that. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I intend to ream out the holes slightly to expose new material. Then inspect for intrusion.
I have decided to not use Marinetex. I will probably use West System 105/205 or a product they make called six10.

Has anyone used West System six10?

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Are you up on how to "properly" bed deck hardware?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yes, will wait till sealant is cured before completely tightening down fasteners.

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2011 : 10:28:17

Davy, I think he was referring to drilling over size, filling with epoxy, redrilling under sized, reaming to correct size, then going at her with the sealant.

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3474 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2011 : 11:00:45

Again.. just my opinion, and worth the money you paid for it..

I think the catalina is laid up thick enough that a backing plate is somewhat redundant. You will probably bust a line before you tear out the cleat. Big washers are probably sufficent.

Some folks even consider the smaller washers sufficient. Like they'd rather the cleat come out if the one line had been run short and the holes left small, than the backing tear out the deck...

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2011 : 11:43:55

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I think he was referring to drilling over size, filling with epoxy, redrilling under sized, reaming to correct size, then going at her with the sealant.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yep, I read this here: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/39.htm
However, step #3 seems redundant, because you're about to fill the hole with epoxy, or am I missing something?

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">You will probably bust a line before you tear out the cleat. - Like they'd rather the cleat come out <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I think this will be true with the backing plate as well, but I understand what you are saying.

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