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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Clevis Pin Diameter

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JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/01/2011 : 11:51:32

I've been told that I need to drop the mast before the marina will pull the boat from the water. So, I'm planning out my A-frame, and have pieced together just about everything (I think) based on the various things I've seen here, including DaveyJ's fantastic videos and his descriptions of his system that are scattered throughout the site.

I especially like the joint he created that sits over, and attaches to, the chainplate. He attaches it with a simple clevis pin, which should make things easy. However, in one of the threads he says"the additional clevis pin is the same diameter as regular clevis pin, just longer with multiple holes". I was planning on buying 2 of those pins, but the C25 parts list doesn't give their dimension (especially the diameter), Catalina Direct simply calls them a "clevis pin" without the diameter, and searching here has turned up empty as well. I'm anal and want to make sure I'm using as large a diameter as possible so I have sufficient strength, and at the same time I (obviously) can't go too large or it won't fit in the chainplate's hole. Does anyone know the diameter of the chainplate clevis pin?

- Jim
Formerly of 1984 C25 named Dragon Wing

NOTE: In my case, PLEASE don't confuse stars/number of posts with actual knowledge. On any topic.

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3474 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2011 : 12:03:41

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1391&ParentCat=99

5/16

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2011 : 12:12:00

Thanks Ray. I saw that one but wasn't sure it was the right one. From their description, I thought http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1308&ParentCat=39 was the right one.

Edited by - JimGo on 11/01/2011 12:42:40

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3994 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2011 : 13:19:14

No need for the clevis pin, I used a bolt that will fit the chain plate hole. DavyJ leaves his on the boat all the time to clear some bridges where he sails. Your A frame is only temporary.

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2011 : 13:49:38

Scott,
Does 5/16" fit?

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2011 : 14:13:19

[url="http://www.jergensinc.com/Index.aspx"]Jergens, Inc.[/url]

These guys will have any size pin, bolt, connector, fastener you might ever need.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2011 : 18:07:22

5/16" should work fine. It doesn't have to be a tight fit. When I've dropped my mast I just use long bolts and there is a little slop but as I said above it doesn't matter. Using bolts also allows you to use washers on each side.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3994 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2011 : 19:02:42

5/16 is fine, Like Gary said it can be a sloppy fit. I think you are over engineering your frame, I used 2x4s with the pipe nipple as the chain plate hinge. I just ran a long bolt through the top of the 2x4s to loosely hold them together at the top then at the chain plate side I ran a bolt through the 2x4 with a washer and a nut. This makes a stud that you mount the pipe nipple to. I think the pipe nipple I used was 3/4 and I hit it with a hammer to make it oval so it would fit over the chain plate. I think my frame took about 1 hour to make. It doesn't have to be pretty, Just functional. To lay the mast on when it comes down, I used a 2x4 with a short 2x4 screwed to the top making a T and duck taped it to the stern railing inside with the bottom sitting on the cockpit floor. Again not pretty but works. I have a roller furler so I attached my jib halyard to that loose bolt at the top of the A frame then I used my mainsail sheet to go from the loose bolt to the deck. The mainsail sheet works great. It gives you some mechanical advantage and you can stop lowering if need be by locking the sheet in the cam. Also standing at the bow made it easy to keep an eye on all the shrouds so you don't bend anything.

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JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2011 : 19:24:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by islander
 I think you are over engineering your frame<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I'm an engineer by training...it's habitual.

Thanks for the other suggestions, too!

An idea I had was putting an eye bolt on either side at the end of the A frame (not the "point") and then lashing the eye bolt to the chainplate. My concern there was that the rope wouldn't be stable enough and would allow too much play. Any thoughts?

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3994 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2011 : 04:48:12

I remember a member of this forum simply drilled a hole in the 2x4 and tied it to the chain plate. I think he put a piece of carpeting on the deck under the end of the 2x4 to protect the deck. I dropped my mast when the boat was on land, You are going to do this in the water so that presents another problem. The mast can sway some but you want to minimise the sway from port to starboard so you don't rip the mast plate out. I did mine with just my wife at the mast and with me at the bow looking straight down the center line of the boat I was able to tell her to push or pull a little to keep the mast centered.

Edited by - islander on 11/02/2011 05:45:43

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2011 : 06:36:59

I drilled a hole in the 2x4's and use a short piece of 1/4" double braid to tie a loop with the 2x4 an inch or so from the chainplate. Works fine! A little slop is no problem, and I have raised and lowered on the hard and on the water. I now almost always do it on the water because it's a much longer fall and harder stop on the ground if you happen to slip. I spent a year planning a precise fitting A-frame before I chucked the complex concept and stuck a long bolt through the top, lashed the 2x4's together, tied off the bases. I've improved my system over time with a hinge at the top and a crutch with a hinged foot that sits on the cockpit floor instead of the gudgeons and pintles system so I don't have to unship the rudder. I stabilize the crutch with a clove hitch at the bottom, pass the line through the scuppers, a couple of turns around the traveller and tie off in front of the crutch. I put another clove hitch higher up and run the ends down to the stern cleats for more lateral stability. I'm bringing Pearl home today, so I'll try to post photos of the equipment this week. The mast is already down, so it won't be in place. I clip on the mainsheet with the cam cleat at the stemhead when I have 2 people and one hauls while the other controls sway with the upper shrouds. I reverse the mainsheet and attach a line to the uppers with rolling hitches when I'm alone so I can haul with one hand and control sway with the other.

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2011 : 09:29:27

Thanks everyone.

Dave, I had already headed to Lowes this morning (I happend to drive by one) before I saw your note. I "chickened out" and got a 4" pipe nipple as suggested above for attaching the pipe A-frame to the chainplate. When I thought about it, the price of the nipple and bolts wasn't really that much more than the cost of the eye bolt, and the added stability would easily justify the few additional dollars in cost.

I'll try to take pictures of the entire assembly process and post a description somewhere so it's available to others, and so y'all can help me figure out what I've done wrong and/or any improvements.

Ray, I also wanted to appologize if my original response sounded overly harsh. I appreciate the quick reply! The conflicting information (and lack of information) from CD just had me spooked.

Edited by - JimGo on 11/02/2011 09:31:42

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3474 Posts

Response Posted - 11/09/2011 : 05:58:35

<< Ray, I also wanted to appologize if my original response sounded overly harsh. >>

Believe me.. that ain't harsh. No apology necessary.

Don't hesitate to post stuff that feels wrong. I'm wrong all the time as lots of stuff we do on these boats are specific to the day they were built and are often similar but different. I try to post the best information I can but it gives others the chance to share their experiences.

I don't write well and just know many cringe reading the droll...

But anyhoo... it is so easy to get hung up on a project over one aspect and usually somebody can help you with the snags.

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