Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have an assymetrical sail that came with my boat. The sheets are only 35' long and I have read they should be twice as long as the boat. The tack line is a three strand braided line spliced onto the tack eye. It is only about 12' long. Can't make that reach the cockpit. It looks as if the original owner had the boat set up for this sail as there are blocks in all of the appropriate areas. I was thinking of running the sheets back to the rear stanctions and then to a block that is already mounted on the stanctions just outboard of the cabin top winches. I think this would get the sheets running inline with the lifelines in the cockpit and negate the need for extra winches. What minimum line should I run and still have the self tailing winches work? Does the tack line need to be grinded on? Can it just be run back and lock in my cam cleat? I have a block forward of my forestay with a fair lead attached to the top of my pulpuirt. I am assuming the tack would run down the fair lead to the block and then aft to cabin.
I want to fly this sail so bad but I don't have a sock and am a bit worried about running into problems as I sail short and singlehanded most of the time.
1998 250 WK/TR #355 "Trail Break" Lake Tahoe California
I purchased our very used asym from a local used sail dealer, with sock, but no lines other than for the sock raising & lowering.
From WM I purchased red sheet line 1/4" port side about 75' and green for stbd.
Same line in black for the tack.
Our sheets are ran outside everything to blocks lashed to the outer catbird seats then to a cam cleat mounted on the coamimg a few inches forward of the seats.
The tack runs down to a block lashed to the pulpit, then back through blocks on the back end of the lower pulpit tube and back to another block on the center stantion, from there I wrap it on the winch.
I installed a mast crain to bring the spin halyard block in front of the forestay. However, I have to lash that halyard to the pulpit to prevent it wrapping in with the furling jib.
The sock makes a huge difference in being able to use the spin.
FYI I paid just over $450 for the used shoot, sock & turtle bag. If I had to replace the sail I would be able to use the rest of the gear, so it was really worth investing in the usedsail option. <center>[url="https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_gallery.cgi?Album+1000+129"] <b>DIY Asym Tack Collar</b>[/url] My efforts to build my own Asym Tack Collar from a plastic spray can.</center>
I purchased our very used asym from a local used sail dealer, with sock, but no lines other than for the sock raising & lowering.
From WM I purchased red sheet line 1/4" port side about <s>75</s>45' and green for stbd.
Same line in black for the tack.
Our sheets are ran outside everything to blocks lashed to the outer catbird seats then to a cam cleat mounted on the coamimg a few inches forward of the seats.
The tack runs down to a block lashed to the pulpit, then back through blocks on the back end of the lower pulpit tube and back to another block on the center stantion, from there I wrap it on the winch.
I installed a mast crain to bring the spin halyard block in front of the forestay. However, I have to lash that halyard to the pulpit to prevent it wrapping in with the furling jib.
The sock makes a huge difference in being able to use the spin.
FYI I paid just over $450 for the used shoot, sock & turtle bag. If I had to replace the sail I would be able to use the rest of the gear, so it was really worth investing in the usedsail option.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I want to fly this sail so bad but I don't have a sock and am a bit worried about running into problems as I sail short and singlehanded most of the time.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I purchased an ATN spinnaker sock from Sailrite. It's hands down superior to the old dousing sock that I had. Quicker and easier up and down than the old one. Well worth the investment.
I won't comment too much on the rigging since I have a C25, but will say that I originally purchased 1/4" line for the sheets, and found them to be too hard on the hands as the wind picks up. I changed to 5/16" sheets. In addition, I use a block with a snap shackle and connect it to the rear cleats and run the sheet forward to the winch.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">So the sheets are good at about twice the length of the boat or is 75' better. Seems like a lot of line.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I think 75' is too much. I'm only using about 45' and haven't discovered any issues.
By the way, the tack line pulls the boat forward, along with the halyard at the head of the sail and the sheet at the clew. Adjusting it under sail requires lots of force, and use of a winch allows that safely.
Last spring I purchased an assymetrical spinnaker with a sock from the sail warehouse in Monterey Ca. The sail came with sheets, halyard, and tack. I have replaced the tack with a longer line which I run to the cockpit through two blocks to the cabin top winch. Grinding on the tack is very useful in big winds. The sheets go to the rear cleats through a block and terminate on a winch on the combing. The sheets are 50' each.
I do have one question for you and the forum in general. I have installed a mast crain, but I need a good way to run the spinnaker halyard to the base of the mask or even better to the cockpit without interfering with the jib. Any suggestions? Right now I have the halyard tied to the pulpit and it still hits the jib when I furl it. How do you run your halyard?
The Chute halyard getting caught as the furler rotates is our biggest problem.
Like you Bruce & Suzette, I have a mast crane and run the halyard to the pulpit. When it is really tight, ours does not get caught.
When I saw the C270 at the Annapolis boat show, it had a flexible spring like attachment at top of the mast trailing aft. I presumed it was for moving the loose topping lift out of the way when the sail is up and the topping lift is slack.
I wondered if we could do something similar for the chute to spring the top block away from the furler.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I have installed a mast crain, but I need a good way to run the spinnaker halyard to the base of the mask or even better to the cockpit without interfering with the jib. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Maybe others have a different experience, but for me, I don't see any reason to run the halyard to the cockpit. I already have to be on the foredeck to make the connections, I'm also there to raise the chute.
I have two cleats on the mast, one for the halyard, one for the sock control line.
Is the C250 masthead different than a C25?
Both ends of the halyard reside on the pulpit, in front of the furler, when not in use. On my C25, it does not interfere with the furler:
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.