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Connecting to a mooring ball

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Erik Cornelison
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USA
194 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/09/2018 : 08:29:04

How are you connecting to a mooring ball?

I'll be using a mooring this summer at the lake and was wondering the best way to hook up to the mooring.

Erik Cornelison
6th Generation Professional Sailor, First Gen Submarine Sailor.
1986 Standard Rig SW. #5234

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 08:56:58

All the mooring balls I've seen on the Chesapeake Bay, the Narragansett Bay, and on the west coast are connected to the anchoring weight or screw by a large chain or heavy line (which you can not see), and then on the top have a ring with a perhaps 1/2 inch line leading to a float 6 feet away which usually has a pole you can grab when approaching the mooring. You usually pull the float aboard yor boat and use the slimy, submerged line to attach to one of your bow cleats and tie it in place with a small cord around the line and the cleat. If you leave the boat on the mooring unattended, then it is best to attach a sturdy line to the top of the mooring ball itself. For that connection, you may want to use a short bridle which shares the load between both bow cleats.

If the mooring ball has no small float with a pole to grab, then you may need to thread a line directly through the mooring ball eye. It would be a good idea to then purchase your own float to make the coming and going much easier.

I only use mooring balls for lunch visits or overnight stays during which I am on the boat, so I make use of the line to the mooring ball float in those situations.

Other mooring ball setups may vary from what I have seen. In Avalon harbor on Catalina Island, each boat is required to be secured to a bow and a stern mooring ball. Those boats can be packed in closer and do not swing in the wind. I sailed there once with Steve Auerbach on his C250 after a business trip to LA!

Happy sailing!

JohnP
1978 C25 SR/FK "Gypsy"
Mill Creek off the Magothy River, Chesapeake Bay
Port Captain, northern Chesapeake Bay

Peregrine
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830 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 12:12:47

I have moored in Oyster Bay for 20 years.
Below is a simple single line diagram. Ours have two lines with eyes spliced in and the float has a 6' pick-wand through it. The pick-up wand is attached to one of the lines "eyes" with 6' of lighter line.
I sail up to the float/wand on the windward side of the float so I drift down on it, grab the wand and the mooring line follows. I tie both lines together when I leave the mooring so both come to the boat when I pick-up the wand. In a blow it's best to bring a line back to the cockpit from the forward cleat (outside the stanchions) so you can pick up the wand from the cockpit and not have to go forward.

John Gisondi
Peregrine #4762

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Edited by - Peregrine on 03/09/2018 12:26:30

Peregrine
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Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 12:31:07

Here is what the float with a pick up wand looks like.

John Gisondi
Peregrine #4762

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islander
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Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 12:39:27

Many will just drop the 2 mooring line loops over the fiberglass wand so they come up with the float when you pull up the wand. IMO having the two lines, one for each cleat forms a bridal so no need to carry a bridal line on the boat.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 03/09/2018 12:48:55

glivs
Admiral

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Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 12:48:33

Fair question but first....what is a sub sailor? A submariner?

Many unknowns, such as type of mooring and who is responsible for the mooring, but...

Tackle - For commercial seasonal moorings, the (mooring) owner is responsible for the ball and all anchoring tackle. The boat owner is responsible for the pendant and hardware to connect to the mooring. Transient moorings may often provide the pendant as well. Don't ever assume a mooring is trustworthy. Always take a quick look at the beginning of a season to verify the surface tackle is sound. I've seen some where the connecting shackles are worn nearly through.

Mooring balls - Nearly all have a ring or eye at the top. Some are structurally designed so that you can attach the pendant from your boat to the eye but many are not. In my area, only the tender should be tied to the top eye. If the latter design, the boat pendant must be shackled not to the ball but to the anchor tackle underneath and the pin secured with stainless wire or zipties. I would suggest using a stainless shackle to connect to the ground tackle. My experience has been that high-grade galvanized shackles will show considerable wear after a couple of seasons and we're in a rather well protected bay.

Pendant - Commercial mooring fields generally will have rules or guidelines on length and line size of pendants and boat owners have their opinions. For boats in the 25-30' range many prefer 1/2" line and doubling up as insurance against one line chaffing through in a storm. Often they slide afloating pool noodle over the line to keep it afloat. I've used a 5/8" single line with a chafe guard for years and have survived some respectable storms without issue. Regardless of line size add a snubber to the pendant to lessen the stress on the boat.

Not all moorings are balls. Locally, balls have to be removed and the ground tackle tied together to protect against ice and facilitate relocating the ground tackle in the spring. Some mooring fields, therefore, use Hazlett moorings which because of their shape and composition can be left in place(in lakes) over the winter. If using one of these you should provide some means of protecting the boat during periods of calm when the mooring can rub against the hull.

As I said, many variations but hopefully this answers a few questions.

Gerry & Leslie; Malletts Bay, VT
"Great Escape" 1989 C-25 SR/WK #5972

Peregrine
Admiral

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830 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 12:48:52

quote:
Originally posted by islander

Many will just drop the 2 mooring line loops over the fiberglass wand so they come up with the float when you pull up the wand.

Yes a little easier but...
I sail alone and run forward, the lines can make the wand lean over. If it is leaning away from the boat it makes picking it up harder and I'm away from the tiller longer.
Either way IMO a float with a wand is a must.

John Gisondi
Peregrine #4762

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islander
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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 13:22:00

Good pint John, I would also add that I would upgrade the 2-6" cleats to at least 8" with good backing. The 6" cleats on our boats are made for 3/8 line and I would hope you would use 1/2" minimum. You probably use 1/2" on your anchor right?
Here is a cleat sizing formula.
Generally, manufacturers recommend just slightly under one inch of cleat for every 1/16-inch of line diameter , which means you need a six-inch cleat for 3/8-inch line, an eight-inch cleat for 1/2-inch line, and a 10-inch cleat for 5/8-inch line.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 03/09/2018 13:23:36

Sailynn
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178 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 16:29:33

We use forward cleats with
separate lines to each. NEVER use the bow eye to boat.

Lynn Buchanan
1988 C25 SR/WK #5777
Sailynn
Nevada City, CA

Erik Cornelison
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 17:22:08

Thanks for the info on the mooring balls. Gerry, yes sub meant submarine. I updated my profile on that.

So this boat will be in a mooring field for the summer..we will be there on the weekends. It's a small Lake in Colorado from April to October use and freezes over in the winter.

So what type of bridle do people use for our Catalina 25's? I feel the forward cleats would pull out, and it was mentioned by Lynn to never use the bow eye...why?

Erik

Erik Cornelison
6th Generation Professional Sailor, First Gen Submarine Sailor.
1986 Standard Rig SW. #5234

Peregrine
Admiral

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830 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 17:43:12

Eric,
If you have two lines off the mooring that becomes a "bridal".
No your cleats will not pull out. Peregrine has been through serious storms even hurricane force winds, I doubled up the mooring lines but the cleats were not an issue.

John Gisondi
Peregrine #4762

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glivs
Admiral

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822 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 21:11:51

An earlier discussion:

See Leon�s recommendation.

Gerry & Leslie; Malletts Bay, VT
"Great Escape" 1989 C-25 SR/WK #5972

HappyNow
1st Mate

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USA
99 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2018 : 22:20:06

Lynn, I've been on Lake Tahoe for two years on a buoy, 3/4 inch line to the top ring of the buoy, and a metal hook with a snap closure to the bow eye. Went through a couple of storms with 4 foot waves lasting two days. Why do you say not to attach to the bow eye? Thanks.

Michael Levin
Sailin' on Sunshine
C250 #402 WK
Lake Tahoe

Erik Cornelison
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194 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2018 : 08:14:48

quote:
Originally posted by glivs

An earlier discussion:

See Leon�s recommendation.

Thanks, that helps a lot. Last mooring I used was for a steel houseboat and the attachment points to the boat were different, and my submarines never moored, so I may put backing plates or bigger washers behind the cleats with a bow eye backup that only would be used if the cleats setup failed.

Erik

Erik Cornelison
6th Generation Professional Sailor, First Gen Submarine Sailor.
1986 Standard Rig SW. #5234

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2018 : 10:16:44

quote:
Originally posted by HappyNow

...Why do you say not to attach to the bow eye?

Speculation: One difference is the forces against the bow eye will be "compression" forces (pulling outward against the backer and laminate), while on the deck cleats they're "shear forces" (pulling parallel to the deck--with forces somewhat upward against the aft part of the cleat and down against the forward part). The compression forces generally require a stronger surface or backing, although I'll speculate that the bow is the strongest area of the hull laminate. Shackling to the bow eye removes most chafing issues, especially if the pennant is attached to the shackle with a thimble. But shock loads might be a little rougher--a snubber might be recommended where wave action can be significant.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 03/10/2018 10:19:02

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1736 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2018 : 14:31:21

I have been on a mooring with several boats for over 30 years. When you put the mooring in, don't put the pennant line on until the day or day before you will be putting your boat on the mooring. The pennant line sitting in water will make the line fouled or slimy, which will get on your desk and make it difficult to handle and secure to your boat.

Peter Bigelow
C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick
Rowayton, Ct
Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT

Enchantment II
1st Mate

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USA
88 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2018 : 11:25:14

I agree with the bridle connection . The boat rides higher on the mooring, and swings less because the two lines keep it centered. I have used a snap hook in connection with the bridle on Eastchester Bay in NY. It was always strong. The other problem with the front eye is it is hard to access from the deck. I remember laying down on the deck, to hook the boat to the mooring. Not practical when you are bouncing around at the end of the day and the wind picks up. Peregrine has the right setup.

Joseph Henderson
82-CAT 25 TR SK

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