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Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Bow cleats

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allencl
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/23/2004 : 15:51:53

Has anybody beefed up the bow cleats or added backing plates to them? We're at a mooring area that can be pretty rough and my bow cleats have loosened up just a touch.

Currently there are just fender washers backing the fasteners. Unfortunately there's not a lot of room to place a backing plate. I've thought about a samson post or larger 4 fastener cleat located in the middle of the foredeck aft of the anchor well, but I think it will look a little ugly, snag jib sheets and be a toe stubber.

Thanks for any advice.

Cheers,

-Chris on "SPIRIT" C25 SR WK #5644

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2004 : 20:00:07

Chris,
That's a pretty meaty area - I would suggest fender washers, apply LocTite and re-tighten.

If you were at a dock that was exposed to a lot of weather I'd suggest snubbers - but at a mooring??? I assume you're using a nylon mooring line? That would absorb a lot of the shock.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2004 : 20:02:14

Does an anchor roller as a chock add any value here?

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1889 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2004 : 20:08:10

Yes, I beefed up my stock bow cleats a couple of years ago.

I cut new backing plates from 3/16" to 1/4" thick epoxy fiberglass laminated plate. I bedded the new backing plates using milled fiberglass and epoxy mush. I then enlarged the holes through the cleats and deck to a snug fit for 5/16" fasteners. The cleats were remounted with 5/16" stainless steel ovalhead machine screws secured with fender washers, flat washers, lock washers, and nylock nuts below deck.

I'm pleased with, and confident in, the results.

I would try to avoid adding any more mooring hardware to the foredeck for exactly the reasons you mentioned, especially the "toe stubber" part. That area is plenty crowded now. Anchoring hardware ahead of the locker hatch will be in the way of ground tackle on a bow roller, and any attachment point aft of the locker would likely result in taught lines blocking the locker hatch. Also, cleats at the edge of the deck don't chafe lines the way more centeral cleats with fairleads at the deck edge do. The stock bow layout seems well thought out for a weekend cruiser this size.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

allencl
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 05/24/2004 : 22:07:50

Thanks everybody for your replies. The deck is pretty beefy up there, but in a blow from the NE it can really pitch up a fuss out in our mooring area. 4-5 foot waves and a lot of current and wind. The two fasteners with washers just seems a little tenuous when you're watching the boat toss around from land. I do run an extra line from the pennant to the second bow cleat for extra security in case one would fail.

I have been happy with the relatively low amount of chafe on the 1/2" braided nylon mooring pennant. The toe rail is round enough that the line rides pretty nicely and so I think a bow roller might actually add some chafing issues even if it were fastened more securely than the current cleats (although I'd love one for pulling up anchor!).

I like your suggestion for a backing plates Leon- thanks. I couldn't see cutting the right shape out of plywood or metal. A glom of fiberglass and epoxy would add strength and I like the larger fastners.

Regards,
Chris

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2004 : 00:07:40

"...it can really pitch up a fuss out in our mooring area. 4-5 foot waves and a lot of current and wind"

Have you considered making up a bridle to go to from the cleats to the mooring pennant? It will distribute the load to both sides of the boat.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2004 : 08:30:28

Can one safely use the bow eye to hook up to a mooring?

It would appear that if the bow eye can be used to load a 7,000lb boat onto a trailer, it should be strong enough for use on a mooring.

Edited by - on

ronrryan
Admiral

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USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2004 : 21:13:27

I remember reading somewhere (where???) about rigging a "snubber" from the trailer eye (bow pad-eye?) on the stem by taking a stout nylon line, splicing it into a thimble, shackling the thimble to the bow, then putting a rolling hitch (or circus hitch, or whatever you fancy) onto the anchor line, some feet out (ten? Twenty?) then ease your anchor line a bit to bring the main strain onto the snubber. If the snubber takes a real hit or surge, it will stretch (nylon)and fetch up on the main anchor line, and both will be working. I never tried this. When on a mooring I always used a bridle, fair winds, ron srsk Orion SW FL

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allencl
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2004 : 20:19:03

I had originally planned on two pennants from the mooring chain but the company that services the mooring said they have experienced many problems with fouling of multiple pennants. I think the idea of a bridle to distribute the load to both cleats is a good suggestion- I will look into that.

I don't have a bow eye for trailering- so that's a moot point for me. It seems like that would be a secure place though to double up your lines when expecting bad weather. I suppose it's a bit close to the water line if it gets damaged? But then again you're already in trouble if the mooring lines are pulling the fixtures off your boat.

Thanks again for the suggestions!

-Chris

Edited by - on

deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 06/02/2004 : 00:17:38

"Wood Duck" lives on a mooring, too. Three seasons ago I added stainless bow chocks and two heavy duty stainless cleats (8" -- they will take 3/4" line) mounted just aft of the anchor locker. I have yet to stub my toe. I also replaced the stock bow cleats with larger ones with fiberglased-in backing plates and heavier screws. The stock cleats will hold the boat in anything but a hurricane, but most mooring lines around here are 3/4", and they don't fit the C25's cleats. I agree with your mooring company about dual mooring lines and bridles. Unless your mooring ball's shackle is set up to rotate easily (most aren't since it can cause the mooring chain to twist and that is not desirable), then every time the wind changes direction and heads your boat, it adds another twist to the mooring lines. Two mooring lines twisted together in a strong wind or sea can very quickly unbraid themselves (I have had it happen). IMHO it is not a good idea to use a bow eye for mooring (for one thing it is impossible to get to from on deck), but in a hurricane I might shackle a safety pennant to it(and check frequently). Finally, a reminder that is probably not needed: always tie a safety over your mooring cleats so the line cannot jump off the cleat (you'd be amazed at how often big boats around here drift off their mooring in storms for just that reason).

Edited by - on

allencl
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 06/02/2004 : 21:01:05

Thanks Dave- sounds like an excellent setup.

Edited by - on

joegeiger
1st Mate

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USA
63 Posts

Response Posted - 06/03/2004 : 13:33:19

My boat was just moved from a slip to mooring and the mooring line is too big for the bow cleats by just a fraction of an inch on one side of the cleat only. It fits nicely on the other side of the horn. I was wondering if I could fit a thin piece of teak or metal as a riser to lift the cleat up the needed amount. Is this a good idea or should I just upgrade to the next larger sized cleat? A bigger cleat will need at least 1 new hole drilled for it so if the riser will work I can avoid that alltogether. Any suggestions and insight are appreciated.

Edited by - on

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