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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Anchor locker drain replacement

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/09/2004 : 15:10:42

I am considering installing a larger drain in the anchor locker, I remember that Leon has done this. I would really appreciate a detailed Tech Tip on this procedure. I would like to use it for the next Mainsheet Cat 25 tech Tip. If it isn't too scary I want to do it my self. I think I have a leak there and I feel a properly done retro-fit of a larger drain is the best overall effort to put in to fixing the leak.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2004 : 15:18:11

Ideally the drain should be mounted on the bottom of the locker which would then require you to lower the outlet in the bow.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2004 : 15:26:41

I had not considered exiting the bottom and installing an elbow to a drain tube. I am figuring on just drilling a bigger hole! The thing that concerns me is how to center it with the interference of the existing drain. I wonder if a person should epoxy in the old drain hole so the area will drill well.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2004 : 15:43:54

Problem I had was the bottom of the locker sagged lower than the drain hole itself . . .

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3312 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2004 : 16:02:08

"the bottom of the locker sagged lower than the drain hole itself . . ."
I think it's a Catalina characteristic. On "TSU" the anchor drain is higher than the floor of the locker, as the cockpit scuppers are higher than the cockpit sole depression and so was the ice box drain until I fixed it!
Derek

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1889 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2004 : 16:20:42

fhopper <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I am considering installing a larger drain in the anchor locker, I remember that Leon has done this. I would really appreciate a detailed Tech Tip on this procedure.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Well here it is.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I would like to use it for the next Mainsheet Cat 25 tech Tip.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Good idea!

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">If it isn't too scary I want to do it my self.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">It's easy. Here we go.

Start by removing the old anchor locker drain tube. You can drill it out, beat it out, whatever works. No need for finese.

Next, get a 6" to 12" or so piece of 1/2"SCH40PVC pipe, and rough sand it on the outside. Enlarge the drain hole (in both the hull stem and anchor locker pan) to allow the PVC pipe to slide in. No special degree of precision is required. Countersink both holes from the accessable end. A small (5/8") drum sanding attachment in a drill works well. Again, neatness is optional, but try not to scar up the outside of the boat more than 3/8" from the hole. If the pipe slides when you want it to, and stays put when you let go, that's perfect. Sand a clean ring 1/2" or more out around the drain hole in anchor locker pan. Measure the air gap between the two holes, and make sure your PVC pipe is at least a couple of inches longer.

Attach the pipe at the outside of the hull with the inner end protruding about 3/8" into the anchor locker. More specifically, slide the pipe into position. At outer end of pipe, measure protruding length, or mark position with pencil or felt tip. Mix up some thickened epoxy, white Marine Tex, or matching gelcoat. Try to use a light colored thickener.

Slide the pipe out about an inch from final position. Smear that inch of pipe with the two-part adhesive. Twist the pipe back into position, making sure to get a complete fillet of adhesive all the way around. If this makes a mess, sculpt the fillet with a popsicle stick, tongue depressor, disposable teaspoon, or whatever. Clean any smears on the hull with paper towels and acetone. Wait for the two-part adhesive to cure.

Using a flexible adhesive (3M-5200 or other polyurethane), and a popsicle stick, tongue depressor, disposable teaspoon, or whatever, create a complete bead or fillet of flexible adhesive around the end of the pipe inside the anchor locker. Mash it right down in there. Neatness does not count.

As soon as the outer fillet of two part adhesive has cured hard, trim the outer end of the PVC pipe. It's a good idea to leave at least the lower lip sticking out maybe 1/4" past the fillet to discourage dripping water from flowing down the stem, and possibly leaving an unsightly stain.

You're done!

(Unless you want to completely seal off the anchor locker from the interior of the hull. In that case, you've still got some work to do...

)

-- Leon Sisson

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2004 : 20:15:25

Thank you.

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2004 : 21:22:52

Ok OK go to any marine supply store, get a 1" bronze drain with a flange. The kind used in small fishing boats that take those rubber plugs. Drill out the old hole and fit the bronze. the flange goes on the inside. Before you use epoxy, draw the lines made by the bow on the pipe as it comes through the hull. use a grinder to shape the pipe in the funny curved line made by the bow.

use a fiber filled body filler (any auto parts store) form the new drain with the pipe bedded in. you can hand file the final shape from the outside. this drain will not be plugged up by anchor debris or mud and keeps a bit of air flowing into the locker. the drain is 1" ID and keeps the water from the deck flowing out fast. I did this project to Nin Bimash last spring and was very happy with the result.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2004 : 23:13:40

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John V.
 Ok OK go to any marine supply store, get a 1" bronze drain with a flange. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Thanks John, I will need to have something like that shipped to Kansas. Years ago I remember having a tool that was a hinged anvil with various sized flange forms in it. As I remember a person used some kind of shaper to round out the copper tube.

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2004 : 07:50:10

I don't think you need to make the part Frank, just go where the fishing store is and look on the wall where the oar locks and drain plugs are. It doesn't have to be a fancy marine store, just the place that sells bait, pfd's and does outboard repair.

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svmoxie
Past Commodore

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USA
331 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2004 : 09:21:45

I used 1/2 inch copper tubing leftover from a home plumbing project. Drilled out the former tube to the new size need, flared the inboard end of the tube with that anvil type flarinf tool and tapped it in place with a generous coating of thickened epoxy. After the epoxy set I trimmed the outside end flush and dressed the hull with some new gelcoat. Works like a charm

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2004 : 10:44:24

I'm must be missing something here . . . if the floor of the anchor locker is lower than the drain hole, how does a larger diameter drain help?

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2004 : 12:32:52

perhaps the drain appears low when on the trailer and not level. not sure..... When storing I go through some length of leveling so that water on deck etc. makes it to the scuppers. On the water however with the dynamics of movement eventually, stuff that is sloshing about if given a way out will find it. The larger the way the faster the out. Just a thought. My aim in enlarging my anchor locker drain was that the small OE drain was constantly plugged by anchor debris.
Sometimes getting underway single handed you have the motor in neutral as you pull up the hook and then dash back to make headway. By the time you have the autopilot set you just want to get the rode coiled and put away. You may not want to, or be able to toss a bucket of fresh water through the locker until your next anchorage.

In the meantime a days sailing could include a storm, beating into 5 footers, any number of things that could put water on the foredeck.
The enlarged drain has made a big difference.

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