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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am looking into purchasing a number of swivel blocks for all of my control lines to go on the mast plate from CD I will be installing shortly and wanted some recommendations for blocks being there are so many out there. Halyards are 5/16" and most the other lines (reefing, boom vang, cunningham, etc..) will be 1/4". Ideally I wanted to do an entire matching set to keep the mast base looking clean but with the prices of some blocks I had considered two expensive strong ones for the halyards and maybe something a bit cheaper for all the other lines. What has everyone else done? I just saw this block that might be a real good match at a decent price. What do you think?
I don't know how you'd calculate the load on a line without using a $1,000. load cell, but logically, you should never have to tension the main halyard on a C25 with a winch. When I needed to put maximum tension on the main halyard, I sat on the boom, so the most load you should ever experience on the main halyard is roughly 200-250 lbs.
You do generally use a winch to tension the jib, but, making a wild guess, I doubt that the load on the jib halyard block would ever exceed twice that.
IMO, the Lewmar block you are looking at should do the job easily.
Would work as well.. I think the prices at west marine were around $28
I'd have rather gone with the Lewmar.. it looks cooler but my local west marine never has the Lewmars in stock..
I could not find even three that matched...
If I had to do the job all over again, I'd probably have drilled some more holes and moved the mast plate forward to clear the lines from the pop top when it is up. Only the front hole on the plate on either side will keep the lines far enough forward.
I think mine the blocks are rated at #1000 and the swivel at #300 lbs.
Either way I don't see these failing even using a wench..
So.. nobody mentioned that with the poptop up the front edge of the poptop would literally cut into the lines..
I'd guess it does not happen on internal halyards ( mine are external ) but I would not know.
Anyhoo.. you can always make a cutout on the front edge of the poptop... I did for one of the halyards, so if they get to wiggling in heavy breeze they will not cut themselves on the front edge of the pop top.
Just a small cut on the poptop and some gellcoat to smooth out the edge that comes close to the line.
I added a cheek block on the mast to run the forward reefing line forward a bit.
I will definitely keep in mind to mount it far enough forward to help prevent the pop-top from hitting the lines. However, if im putting the pop-top up chances are I won't need tension on the lines because I will be at anchorage or posted up. Should be able to just release all of the clutches, put the pop top up, then lock the lines back in. Maybe some sort of padding along the front edge so no chafing occurs.
I ordered the WarpSpeed for my halyards from fisheries supplies that Awetmore posted in another thread. Excited for them to arrive!
I'd take a look at an earlier post http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?whichpage=1& TOPIC_ID=28365& . I used a turning block at the base of my mast, led to a deck organizer 45 degrees to center line of the boat then to a rope clutch. It works terrific and makes it easy to single hand (assuming a roller furler). No problems with the pop top interfering with this set up. I have no problems raising the main with no winch, and then dropping into lazy jacks. My clutches are near the cockpit /cabin corner near the grab rail.
<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="3"><font color="navy">Here is a very old pasted up photo of Peregrine's triple clutches. The triple organizers are way out by the hand rails keeping them away from the pop top and lined up with the clutches that also clear the pop top. Peregrine has triples port and starboard. The blocks are just a hodge podge of blocks I had around it would be nice replace them with new ones. </font id="navy"></font id="size3"></font id="Comic Sans MS">
Single Blocks with Adjustable Shackle25-13 US - Stainless Steel Blocks length: 4-1/4 width: 2 weight: 5 oz shackle: 3/16 sheave diameter: 1-3/4Comes with set screw to make it fixed shackle. Safe working load is 1150 lbs.$23.00
Single Blocks with Adjustable Shackle25-13 US - Stainless Steel Blocks length: 4-1/4 width: 2 weight: 5 oz shackle: 3/16 sheave diameter: 1-3/4Comes with set screw to make it fixed shackle. Safe working load is 1150 lbs.$23.00
Here's what those Garhauer blocks look like in place, so you can visualize what your setup will look like. These are mostly 25's, but the two most forward on the right are 30's. Garhauer blocks will last forever, which can't be said about the blocks with composite cheeks. I have some Lewmars that are already showing signs of degradation - they'll be OK for some years to come, but they won't last anywhere near as long as the Garhauers.
By the way, it may look like a cluster f*** but I put a lot of thought into it beforehand and there are no conflicts (although you'd have to see it in 3D or real life to believe me).
Can you identify the lines you have shown. I'm curious as to their function. I think I count 8 heading aft.
Sorry about the delay, Kim; I've been battling a post-Holidays "cold" that became more than that.
Here's what that mess around the base of my mast is all about (referring to the picture above). The red/white vang should be evident. To its right, the red/yellow line is the internal outhaul. Next to the right is the Amsteel reefing line. Then the main halyard in green. Farthest to the right is an accessory most people would not bother with: it exits the forward side of the mast about 15" below the truck and then goes through a fairlead so it can be pulled to either side without chafing on the edges of the exit block. It serves several purposes: most often it's just a toppinglift for the whisker pole; using the whisker pole as a gin pole it becomes a derrick for hoisting the dinghy onto the foredeck; one of these days I'll reinforce the foredeck and install an anchor point, and then it become sort of a solent stay to hoist a wire-luffed storm jib.
Here's another view:
The blue line is the boom down-haul (I've got a sliding gooseneck), and the lower block of the 4:1 tackle is clipped to the upper hounds. To its left is the main toppinglift in green. Then there are two 1/4" lines that run over the two forward sheaves on the truck. One is a spin halyard and the other is an auxilliary halyard "just in case". I expect to use it for yanking the sock off the asym while I remain close to the tiller, although I'm working on another use for it (I'll explain if it works out, but that's still some time away).
BTW, the electrical cable from the mast is still unconnected in this picture; that's the white tube with the black "liquid electrical tape" on the end.
Here's a link to other pix. I hope you can find something that stimulates your own creativity:
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.