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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 Lowering Mast with Roller Furler		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts
Initially Posted - 10/10/2016 :  19:13:06  Show Profile
A few years ago I added a Harken Mark IV furler to my boat. When we raised the mast I had two experienced riggers that "threw" the mast up in about 10 seconds by hand. So fast I didn't get a good look at how they did it. I was concentrating on setting up the lines to pull it up and didn't realize they were going to just do it by hand.

I'm thinking about pulling my boat for the 1st time since adding the furler and I'm not sure how to lower the mast without damaging the furler.

Any suggestions from those of you with a non-CDI furler?

BTW... If I end up pulling the boat it will be the first time since it was new (as far as I know) that it will be out of the water for an extended period of time.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
Edited by - GaryB on 10/10/2016 19:14:05

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts
Response Posted - 10/11/2016 :  06:30:58  Show Profile
Gary, I attach the forstay to one side of the A frame and the lowering line or mainsheet ( what ever method you use) to the other side of the A frame and then to the stem fitting. This keeps the forstay under tension when you lower or raise the mast so it won't bend. Once the mast is down unhook the forstay from the A frame and lay it along the mast an tie it every few feet to the mast. It helps if you have a helper when you tie it. My A frame is made of 2x4s and I have two tangs at the top for attaching the forstay and the lowering line. I use the mainsheet to lower it so I can stand on the bow and watch how it is coming down and you can stop the process anytime to make adjustments by locking the line in the cam cleat on the mainsheet. You have a mechanical advantage with the mainsheet and I also don't like the idea of being in the cockpit under the mast if something should go wrong. Furlers are very flexable so don't panic if it sags a little.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


Edited by - islander on 10/11/2016 06:34:54
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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts
Response Posted - 10/11/2016 :  07:03:02  Show Profile
Leaving a sail tightly wrapped will help; an old one. IT has to have a handler or it will go over the side and probably bend at the spreader. Of course another problem comes after the stick is down and you have it sitting on the pulpits, the furler is enough longer to bend at the bow pulpit unless supported, the handler should still be actively supporting the drum until you lash a "sprit" to the mast that the drum can be tied to for support. My last "solid" furler was a Harken on my Merit... in the '80s so I hope others will chime in too. Messing up the Harken would be a lousy day.
Frank Hopper
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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts
Response Posted - 10/11/2016 :  07:23:53  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by islander

Gary, I attach the forstay to one side of the A frame and the lowering line or mainsheet ( what ever method you use) to the other side of the A frame and then to the stem fitting. This keeps the forstay under tension when you lower or raise the mast so it won't bend. Once the mast is down unhook the forstay from the A frame and lay it along the mast an tie it every few feet to the mast.



I can't picture what you are describing. Did you note he is asking about a Harken? A Harken cannot bend at all or it will require hundreds of dollars in replacement sections and joiners which cannot be easily replaced since the forestay is swaged after the Harken is assembled on it; repair would require a rigger to install a new forestay in the repaired furler. Messing up a "real" Harken is a very bad day.
Frank Hopper
Edited by - pastmember on 10/11/2016 07:24:40
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts
Response Posted - 10/11/2016 :  09:09:37  Show Profile
Sorry Frank, Let me clarify it. It is the same method that Davy J uses to lower his mast. The Forstay is what gets attached to the A Frame, Not the furler. The furler simply hangs on the tensioned forstay. I don't have a Harken but I do have a Furlex A that is made up of aluminum extrusions connected together with joiners. I also used the same method to lower the mast on Bruce Ross's boat Passage formally Dave's (stinkpotter) boat . I can't remember what brand furler he has but it is built the same way with aluminum extrusions and joiners. The only difference between what Davy does and what I do is that Davy has a line that connects to the A frame and runs to a block on the stem fitting then back to a winch in the cockpit. I connect the one side of the mainsheet to the A frame and the other side to the stem fitting. This is Davy's famous Video. Around 1:22 you see him attach the forstay to his A frame and lower his mast. His furler simply hangs straight on the forstay. Yes it flexes some but I can't imagine that a Harken can't do the same and is that brittle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r33VCObNroY
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1297 Posts
Response Posted - 10/11/2016 :  09:16:16  Show Profile

Once the mast and furler are on deck you may wish to detach the furler at the mast-head toggle and slide the furler extrusion into a thin wall 2" central vacuum tube available at Home Depot or similar outlets. It will protect the furler from bending and deforming while stored on deck.




To prevent the furler extrusion from sliding out of the tube simply drill a few holes and secure the extrusion.


This is the result of storing the extrusion strapped to the mast and over top of the spreaders while exposing it below a tarp with soaring heat and freezing cold.


Soaring heat deformed the extrusion permanently while strapped and stored below a tarp


Even though the drum was adequately supported by a 4"pvc pipe it still was hard to keep it from deforming at the extrusion/drum connection.
Henk & Johanna
"Floating", a few off your "barnacles".
"Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016)
"Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018)
"Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023)
"Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts
Response Posted - 10/11/2016 :  18:52:16  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by islander

Sorry Frank, Let me clarify it. It is the same method that Davy J uses to lower his mast. The Forstay is what gets attached to the A Frame, Not the furler. The furler simply hangs on the tensioned forstay. I don't have a Harken but I do have a Furlex A that is made up of aluminum extrusions connected together with joiners. I also used the same method to lower the mast on Bruce Ross's boat Passage formally Dave's (stinkpotter) boat . I can't remember what brand furler he has but it is built the same way with aluminum extrusions and joiners. The only difference between what Davy does and what I do is that Davy has a line that connects to the A frame and runs to a block on the stem fitting then back to a winch in the cockpit. I connect the one side of the mainsheet to the A frame and the other side to the stem fitting. This is Davy's famous Video. Around 1:22 you see him attach the forstay to his A frame and lower his mast. His furler simply hangs straight on the forstay. Yes it flexes some but I can't imagine that a Harken can't do the same and is that brittle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r33VCObNroY

My A-frame is exactly like Davy's so I understand what you are saying. Reviewing Davy's video it appears his furler is a CDI which has a very flexible extrusion compared to the Harken.

The problem is the halyard restrainer and the toggle at the top which will tend to bend the extrusions if there's very much sag at all.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts
Response Posted - 10/11/2016 :  19:01:42  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by zeil


Once the mast and furler are on deck you may wish to detach the furler at the mast-head toggle and slide the furler extrusion into a thin wall 2" central vacuum tube available at Home Depot or similar outlets. It will protect the furler from bending and deforming while stored on deck.




To prevent the furler extrusion from sliding out of the tube simply drill a few holes and secure the extrusion.


This is the result of storing the extrusion strapped to the mast and over top of the spreaders while exposing it below a tarp with soaring heat and freezing cold.


Soaring heat deformed the extrusion permanently while strapped and stored below a tarp


Even though the drum was adequately supported by a 4"pvc pipe it still was hard to keep it from deforming at the extrusion/drum connection.



Great idea Henk!

The 150 is already off the furler. I think I might try sliding a couple of 10' sections of 2" or 3" PVC up the furler extrusions before lowering the mast. I could then connect the fore-stay to the A-frame and lower as usual. Might reduce the possibility of kinking the extrusions!

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
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zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1297 Posts
Response Posted - 10/11/2016 :  19:58:19  Show Profile


Sliding the 2" tubing up the furler from the toggle at the masthead will eliminate having to disassemble the drum. When you buy standard 10' length of 2" tubing make sure it is the stiff thin-wall "central vacuum tube", material which will, over time, not as easily sag/deform as other type PVC tubing.

The 10ft sections are easily connected with some left over pieces and zip strapped to the sections as per illustration.

When the boat is rigged and ready to sail, we store the empty tube bungied to the trailer in two sections to stay within the confinement of the trailer. One section is 20 ft long and the other 10 ft long





Henk & Johanna
"Floating", a few off your "barnacles".
"Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016)
"Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018)
"Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023)
"Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)
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