Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I did read on some earlier threads here about the pros and cons of Tiller Tamers and similar products. Of course, I would like a small autopilot unit someday but I can't justify it on an inland lake. I just want to hold course somewhat to go below for a beverage, adjust something or hold while motoring and dropping the sails.
So I bought a Tiller Tamer at WM as I felt it would greatly help with single handing and be a better solution than lashing the tiller to the pushpit stanchions, which I have been doing.
But I wanted to be able to remove the unit when I didn't need it and wanted to be able to continue to slip on the tiller cover while in the slip.
So I bought a 1/4" push-button quick release pin and a couple of receptacles. I shortened and rounded the end of a 1/4" clevis pin and used it to locate one hole on the TT and used the QR pin on the center hole.
Everything is stainless steel and I had some shims on hand to reduce free-play. Turns out one shim did the trick.
I tried it out right after and was very happy with it. It's locked firmly in place but pops off with a push of the button and can be easily stowed with the pin retained in it so it can't be lost.
Of course, I spent more on SS hardware than I did on the Tiller Tamer.
Here's some pics:
Tim Keating 1985 C-25 TR/FK #4940 Midsummer Lake Don Pedro, CA
Very nice! I have a tiller tamer and as you said, Poor man's auto pilot. One thing is that line they give you is junk. I replaced mine with 1/4" double braid. Mucho better.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
That’s a nice idea, the ability to remove a Tiller Tamer with the push of a button. This is a great application for your Quick Release pin.
On Passage, I kept it a little simpler. The tiller handle already had a receptacle for a tiller extension handle, and the receptacle is located right at the business end of the tiller.
I got a long stainless steel bolt, two fender washers, two nuts and a wing nut and put them together as follows:
I put one fender washer on the bolt, then I put a nut on the bolt, then another fender washer, then another nut. This makes the two washers look like a pulley, but it doesn’t rotate. I took that assembly into the receptacle.
On the bottom, I put the wing nut and tightened the whole thing so it does not spin.
Then I tied a 1/4” line to my starboard rear cleat, gave the line one CCW wrap around the two fender washers, then tied the other end of the line to the opposite cleat.
I use a rolling hitch to snug up the line. That allows the tiller to stay put, but if I want to adjust it, I can. I put a little wax on the line to give it some “stiction”.
I have a few pictures on Flickr
This arrangement will hold the boat pretty well for minutes at a time because it has a little negative feedback to counter slight course variations.
I went even simpler (and cheaper). I bought a 7' length of bungee cord and added a hook at each end. Put one hook on a stern cleat, took 2 wraps around the tiller and hooked the other end to the other stern cleat. It can be adjusted with a push and stays in the new position.Worked well for over 20 years.
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
I did the same, with maybe 3 wraps. Momentary course adjustments (like tacks) were made just by holding the wraps and pushing the tiller, stretching the bungee on one side. Steady course adjustments were by grabbing the wraps and twisting them on the tiller. The whole thing could be slackened just by sliding the wraps aft on the tiller, and re-engaged by pulling them forward. No hardware, no holes, simple storage, and very little to WM.
BTW, a little sun screen lotion helped preserve the bungee over the years.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I found that the line will chafe quickly where it exits the tamer and rubs on the plastic edge. Over time that edge will wear down to a sharp edge and increase the chaffing. I added a plastic fairlead I found at WM ( actually a mast eye pad) so the line exits the tamer straight.https://www.westmarine.com/buy/forespar--pe-1-lexan-mast-padeye--111567
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.