Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
What leads? You will probably find only screw posts.
Consensus seems to be 6 guage, large connectors, a 25 amp in-line fuse close to the battery. The manual that came with mine shows the wiring diagrams in the last section and only calls for a 20 amp fuse.
Congratulations Tom, I hope the stork doesn't delay. When my wife and I received our new Tohastue this year, the electrical leads were (estimated) 8 feet long. My prior (and original) engine also had leads and the PO had run them through the transom with an attractive little plate, which I intended to use for the new leads. During installation, I noticed that the leads from the previous engine were a smaller gauge, so I had to widen the hole in the transom, which was no big deal. We called Chris from Online Outboads, and I think he said the Tohatsu had 8 guage wires.
The tricky part was that the leads were not long enough to go to the battery compartment. So my wife and I headed out to West Marine and spoke with the nice people there about our problem and they suggested we get another 6 feet of electrical wire for each lead, a pair of "battery posts" and mount the new "battery posts" under the storage access in the quarter berth, which is what we've done. After half a season, we've had no problems.
Tom, the electrical wire is 8 guage and 6 feet long with batttery terminals on the ends. The wire was to short to reach the battery in the C250 so I purchsed 10 feet of 8 guage added a trolling motor connector for thru hull and battery terminals to the new wire. It works great and allows easy disconnect from the battery for engine removal.
I anticipate disconnecting the Sailmaster wires and using them for the Nissan. The existing wires are adequate for the Sailmaster and should do for the Nissan as well. Why the concern for replacing wires? Perhaps I'm missing somethimg.
It appears that the sailmaster wires are longer than the new Nissan wiring. I don't want to "modify" the new outboard so I wanted to get the power closer to the engine.
I found this at the local marine dealer.
It is a blue sea systems dual bus plus. It has 4 big studs for the battery and for the outboard .That way the battery can stay connected while the engine is removed. It also has a sturdy cover that will keep the boat hook from setting it all on fire. I plan on mounting this in the aft end of the Q-berth on the shelf. I bought some 6 gauge wire to power the bus bars. That should be bulletproof and overkill. Just how I like it. (when it comes to wiring) I would have gone the route of the trolling motor plug but I already have a good sized hole in the transom.
Mine is still on the truck for delivery!!!!!!!!!!!!! The boat is in the slip awaiting a new engine. I am going to put it on this evening and do an overnight sail to break it in.
To say that I am excited is an understatement. I have been waiting 2.5 yrs for today.
Tom, the motor came with 8' of twin lead with lugs fastened to the ends. Gauge seems to be # 8. I checked my quarter berth today and the Johnson people who installed the Sailmaster motor took out the bus bar and spliced the wires together sealing with heat shrink tubing. I'll remove that and do as you suggested. Damn I'll be looking forward to some wild vertigo, crawling back there.
Waited around all day for the engine. NO luck. So I call Fed-ex and find out what is up. They tell me that a delivery was attempted at 845 AM! I told them that nobody was here(I was watching). I also did not get a door tag to let me know. Now the warehouse is closed till Monday and I have to go back to work. Sometimes I hate fedex. Oh well, it is only one more weekend. I did get the kitchen painted though.
Hi all, I am looking to replace my old motor mount with the new Garhauer mount but need to know how much the new Nissan/Tohatsu 9.8 hp electric start XL shaft weighs. I plan on replacing my old Evenrude with the new Tohotsu in within the next two years and want the mount to be ready for it. I now the specs say around 81 lbs but the unit has to be heavier with the longer shaft, starter, and alternator. Would anyone with one of these motors mind weighing it before you put it on your boat? Thanks for any help you can give.
The carton with the 25' electric start motor and fuel tank, hoses tool kit and styrofoam support system weighs 95 pounds. There are some confusing weights being thrown about in the manual dealing with short, long, and extra long shaft motors. I seem to remember that one of them came in at 92 pounds but that might have been the one with remote controls. I don't think you will have a problem with weight given that you contemplate the behemoth that Frank is using. I'd be using it as well except that the mount I'm currently using is adequate with the Johnson 9.9 that is on it now and the manufacturer claims it weights 108 pounds.
I was looking at the three spring Garhauer but was concerned about the 95 pound upper weight limit. It sounds like the Tohatsu will be less than that even with oil in the crankcase. I currently have an old OMC mount that is falling apart and want to replace it with one that will fit my future needs. Thanks again!
When we pick ours up at the dealer we put it on a hanging scale and the 9.8, XLS, w/elect start and alternator with all liquids in place weighted in at 91 lbs. So all the electric stuff and fluids weights about 9 lbs. The Tohatsu rep told me the 82 lbs was a bare bones motor standard shaft.
I believe that only the four spring has the extra long transom braces that reduce oil canning. If you really don't want four springs I would still buy the 4 and disable one just to get the bracing.
In regard to the connection for the motor cable to the boat's wiring cable, that you plan using, be aware that the studs on the Nissan's wiring are; Red lead, 3/8 diameter hole, 13/16" surround, Black lead, 1/4 diameter hole, 1/2" surround. I was going to use the Blue Sea unit that you pictured in your post but was unsure that it could handle the space required for the stud size of the Nissan motor. I opted instead to go with a pair of Blue Seas Power Post single terminal connectors, one 1/4" #163191 and one 5/16" #541870. They are pictured on page 631 in the 2004 WM cataloge. The only problem is that one insulator will have to be painted black to maintain the necessary color screme for + & -.
I took the motor out of the carton today and sat it atop the bathroom scale....it said 90 lbs. Add to that the weight of 800 milleliters of motor oil and you have the total weight of the 9.8 exl with alternator and electric start.
My thanks to all for the information on the weitht of the 9.8. Frank, I am not too worried about the long transom braces since my transom already has a substantial amount of additional reinforcing. However, is it easy to disable one of the springs on the four spring mount?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by familysailor</i> <br />My thanks to all for the information on the weitht of the 9.8. Frank, I am not too worried about the long transom braces since my transom already has a substantial amount of additional reinforcing. However, is it easy to disable one of the springs on the four spring mount?
Thanks again. I love this forum. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> I would call Lowell at 1-916-843-1971 and ask him. He owns catalinadirect.com.
The springs do come off. It is a little difficult but if you are careful, you wont put an eye out! The trick is compressing the spring enough to slide the retaining pin out of the way. Once that is done, the unused spring can then be removed by taking the bolt out that it goes over. I used a small box end wrench to move the spring. Not hard, but definatly a good way to bust a hand if you are not careful. The advantage, is now you would have a spare spring and pin.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.