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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

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tizer2
1st Mate

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Canada
33 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/18/2005 : 18:51:24

What cleaning/waxing products do you favour?

Edited by - on

Ben - FL
Admiral

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880 Posts

Response Posted - 10/18/2005 : 19:53:16

That's easy. Environmentally safe products.

Below I use citrus. On deck bleach works good on all that green stuff that grows here in Florida and quickly breaks down to salts.

Edited by - on

Al
Captain

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USA
269 Posts

Response Posted - 10/18/2005 : 22:41:56

Collinite products http://www.collinite.com/marine.htm always receive excellent reviews. I haven't tried them yet, but when I get the time, that's what I'm going to use.

Try the #920 cleaner and the #870 liquid Fleetwax or better yet, the #885 paste Fleetwax.

Edited by - on

Jack Schafer
Navigator

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USA
112 Posts

Response Posted - 10/19/2005 : 09:41:08

Just pulled the boat this weekend and after a full season with the VERTGLAS system the boat looks as good as it did in the spring. All I did to clean it up was wash down with CLR. The water line needed a little more elbow grease but the rest was easy.
Jack Schafer
2nd Wind #106

Edited by - on

bbriner
Captain

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349 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2005 : 10:37:45

Ben - is bleach really environmentally safe? I don't think it is...

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Ray Seitz
Captain

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USA
416 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2005 : 11:39:55

Bill I think swimming pools, water works departments all across the US, boats with the macerator pumps, and wastewater treatment plants all across the US use the more concentrated form of household bleach.

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Steve Raffel
Captain

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262 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2005 : 16:03:36

I have been using Collinite cleaner and paste wax for several years. The results are excellent. Boat US sells Collinite but not West Marine.

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tizer2
1st Mate

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Canada
33 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2005 : 00:01:46

Thanks for the advice. Has anyone tried Meguire's boat products? I've used their line of car products with good results.

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2005 : 09:24:19

I've noted that over the years, almost everyone is happy with what they use so it seems that most all the products are doing a good job and as such, it would be difficult or impossible to suggest one is significantly superior to another.

Well known is the importance of using a sealer on gel coat. My mistake for too long was avoiding sealing the non skid for fear that it would make it slippery. Without a sealer, dirt collects in the recesses, holds moisture and mildews. I've found the nonskid cleaner / sealers to be equally important as the hull wax. I've not experienced any slippery problems on the non skid following treatment.

I use a brand available locally at the sporting goods.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2005 : 10:32:44

As a soon to be new boat owner, it would help a lot if someone could list the "cleaning, waxing, sealing" items that I should be doing to my new boat. I've got the bottom covered (sorry for the pun), it will get a barrier coat before it ever goes in the water, as well as bottom paint because it will be kept in a slip. But what else? I have only owned one boat before, and I frankly just sailed it for two years without doing anything to it (it was a dinghy). I was young and (perhaps) slightly more clueless then.

Arlyn, what is "sealer"? How is it different from paste or liquid wax? Also, if I should be waxing above the water line, any tricks on how to apply it? Seems like a lot of area to wax with the Karate Kid method...

Thanks.

Edited by - on

dave holtgrave
Captain

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USA
427 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2005 : 10:52:30

hey arlyn
what is the product and a good sports store to buy the non skid deck sealer you mentioned???

there isn't alott of products that are made for non skid decks that will allow you to keep a grip and bruise your buns

i have been using the aurora non-skid deck polish, but, it is getting extremely hard to find.

thanks
dave holtgrave
5722 sk/tr

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2005 : 09:24:25

Dave, Starbright product... available in Walmart sporting section or Academy sporting goods. The nonskid products is described as a cleaner sealer. Nasty nonskid more likely needs cleaned with the hull cleaner product first... the stuff that rubber gloves are needed to use. A very stiff brush working along the diamond grains will usually do the job. In places, I had to use a pick to extract some stuck material.

After the sealer treatment... the non skid has remained clean, dirt doesn't stick in the recesses.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2005 : 10:24:40

My question (above) must be too stupid for anyone to want to take time with. Sorry about bothering you all with it.

Fair winds.

Edited by - on

dave holtgrave
Captain

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USA
427 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2005 : 11:52:15

kevin
welcome to the forum

i know your question was not exactly addressed, but,
you do confuse me with your harsh remarks.

if you don't like the response, ask again.
you cost to view this board is nothing.

treat the people willing to help as if you want your questions answered.

again, welcome

dave holtgrave 5722
sr/tr
hard and dry in southern illinois.

Edited by - on

Ray Seitz
Captain

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USA
416 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2005 : 12:40:22

Kevin, I have frequently asked questions in an ongoing topic and have not had them answered! I would therefore, advise ask again (like Dave suggests) or start a new topic with the title constructed to ensure/lure as many to read as possible. Topics like this one are better placed in the general forum for the maximum number of people and experience to view. I have very little time and do not usually visit the 25 forum and from time to time have seen the 25 folks admitt to the same crime.

I would answer to your question about waxing - yes everything should be waxed. That being said it is a big job and the only thing I manage to get waxed on a yearly basis is the hull

. I am still trying (after 4 seasons) to get all the topsides waxed.

Edited by - Ray Seitz on 11/02/2005 12:44:42

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2005 : 18:14:48

Kevin...sorry, didn't see your specific question.

As Ray says, everything should get waxed to protect the somewhat pourous gel coat. I've never waxed the anodized aluminum...don't know about that.

The nonskid doesn't get traditional wax as it would be slippery... the sealer is a liquid cleaner sealer that is whiped on, brushed in and then wiped clean.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2005 : 08:29:55

Thanks. Dave, I did not at all mean to be harsh, sorry if I sounded that way. Sometimes I don't write very well...

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2005 : 11:47:57

Probably get more/better response on topics that are really
not specific to the 250 if you post up in the 'general interest' forum.

There's a lot more 25 owners out there than 250 owners,
and if they have the same forum habits as I do,
only drop down to the 250 specific area on occasion.

Some folks really like the Vertiglas (polymer coating)...
I've had good luck with Meguiars' boat wax/cleaner products.

Either way, if you keep your boat coated you'll prolong
the life of that nice pristine gelcoat. Even without regular
care, it will last a loooong time.

Edited by - on

cathluk
Admiral

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USA
513 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2005 : 21:53:50

Kevin-

We polish the hull each year before we splash. Get a decent random orbital polisher with a soft bonnet - that will help speed the job along since you can use it over most of the hull. Be carful near the strip & any vinyl letters (name, port, etc) as you can damage them. Also, if you use a polisher watch it near the bottom paint so you don't swirl some nice blue (or green or red) bottom paint in your wax (if you do just get it off with some lacquer thinner & wax again.

Enjoy your new boat.

Edited by - on

528
Navigator

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USA
181 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2005 : 20:03:11

I just returned from a week at the boat. Something jogged my memory about this thread, but I could not remember if toothpaste was mentioned here. Anyway, I tried "Ultra Brite" whitening toothpaste on the nonskid with a firm nylon hand brush. The spot looked like it was caused by a firecracker detonation. As if a miracle came from the cleaning gods, the spot completely vanished. Being curious if this was a fluke, I tried cleaning surface rust from the stantions-Gone, skuff marks from shoes and boat hooks-Gone. It was amazing, I then tried cleaning the aluminum door on the back of the house. It looked hopeless from dog pawing and marring, the door now looks like brand new! I then cleaned skuff marks from the tile floor and shined the faucets. I used a damp washcloth and squeezed as needed to work. A suprising thing was how little elbow grease was required. You will have to rinse the residue that is left, but I am in awe of the results. Oh yea, those stains that form below the exterior windows-Gone. You have to try this.

Edited by - on

atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2005 : 21:13:21

Ultra Brite......Hmmmn. I use that stuff on my teeth.

My teeth feel cleaner and look better than when I use 3-m polishing compound.....

Seriously....been using ultra-brite for years.

Tom.

Edited by - atgep on 11/21/2005 21:16:28

Al
Captain

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USA
269 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2005 : 23:33:44

I used toothpaste (not necessarily Ultra Brite) to clean the white piping on my Blues when I was in the Navy (but that's another story...!)

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