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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Wood Removal

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Downbucket
Navigator

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USA
188 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/25/2005 : 10:36:42

Hi All:

We've battened down the hatches here in Maine in anticipation of what is left of hurricane Wilma. Hope those of you in Florida are safe. As I write this at 10:30 a.m., it is raining lightly in Portland, however, the forecast calls for the rain to intensify and the winds to reach 50 to 60 mph. Boat is safely out of the water.

One of my winter/early spring projects is to refinish the teak inside and outside the boat. I'm still trying to decide whether it is best to remove the wood or leave it attached. Any comments? Suggestions?

Also, does anyone know whether the wood down below is glued then screwed or if it is just an adhesive that is applied before screwing down the wood?

Thanks.

Will

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2005 : 10:51:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Downbucket
 One of my winter/early spring projects is to refinish the teak inside and outside the boat. I'm still trying to decide whether it is best to remove the wood or leave it attached. Any comments? Suggestions?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Will,

Due to the condition of my teak when I purchased my boat, I removed the exterior pieces(with the exception of the two pieces flanking the hatch handle) and worked on them over the winter in my garage. This made prepping and finishing the teak a whole lot easier and I was able to coat the undersides of each piece to further prevent moisture intrusion.

Additionally, it appeared that the teak on my boat was never removed so this provided a good opportunity to rebed everything.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2005 : 11:12:12

So far as I know, the interior wood is just screwed in place. On most, if not all, C25s, the grab rails are held in place by screws from the inside, but there are one or two through-bolts that also hold them in place. If you examine the grab rails carefully, you'll see two 1/2" teak pegs. Those pegs have to be drilled out with a 1/2" bit and the bolts and nuts are under them. You can get new pegs from any place that sells boat teak, glue them in and cut them off with a saw or a chisel, and sand them smooth. It's not as bad a job as it sounds. I was never able to remove the teak trim on either side of the companionway hatch, so I always just refinished them in place. If you refinish anything without removing it, take a few minutes to mask it with tape, you'll save yourself the risk of unintentional gel coat stains.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2005 : 11:38:22

Removing it is the way to go, with the exception of the bulkheads and drawer facia...

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2005 : 12:19:43

The Black and Decker "Mouse" is wonderful for the teak you leave on the boat. (and for the teak off the boat!) It gets where other sanders cannot and is very effective.

Edited by - on

Brian King
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2005 : 13:09:01

I just removed the cabin roof slides, the graprails and the eyebrow trim. For the slides and grabrails after removing the fasteners I carefully worked a couple of putty knives under the trim to release the silicon caulk that held them in place. Next step, sanding and Cetol.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2005 : 13:15:54

Take caution when removing/installing the long grab handles because they are under a bit of strain to get them to curve and if you're not careful, damage may occur when they spring straight.

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3323 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2005 : 13:26:53

Installing the grab rails is really a 2-person task. The curve is very real and a problem to do on your own - I split one of mine at the forward end trying to do it alone...

Derek

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2005 : 17:36:39

I removed everything but the decorative wings at the top of the bulkhead, which have screws under pegs. The companionway trim is screwed together from the inside--mine was bedded with a dark, gooey substance that was a bear to dig and clean out. I rebedded with polysulfide. My grab rails also have three thru-bolts in each, which I was able to loosen from inside and remove without taking out the plugs. The other loops are held by screws. I carefully tapped a putty knife under each rail loop to pry it loose. Putting the rails back on involved fitting two bolts into their holes, and then bending the rail enough to get the third one in. Once the bolts were in, the screws went in easily. (I also bedded them with polysulfide.) With the pop-top up, it's pretty easy. Five of the six bolts on mine held as I loosened and tightened the nuts, and one turned. One solution for that is to use a Dremmel to cut a little slot in the end of the bolt below the nut, and then hold a screwdriver in the slot as you turn the nut. A little shot of WD-40 helps, too. Another solution might be to push the plug up (using the bolt), drip some epoxy in, and let it cure thoroughly so it keeps the bolt head from turning. Then push the plug back in and apply a little finish to seal it.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 10/25/2005 17:46:48

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2005 : 22:05:24

Derek--I have removed and rebuilt all of my topside teak. Am now in the process of re-installing the new stuff. Interesting to note that due to the curvature of the forward cockpit bulkhead, each piece has to be hand planed and individually fit, one side concave, the other convex. This is taking a while. I am interested in your comment about one of your grabrails splitting on installation. Sometime in the next week or so I will be re-installing the grab rails and would appreciate any info on that process. Don't want to have to make them again, even if I did save the template.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2005 : 11:08:14

The 89s are counter sunk to be level with the top of the cabin and much straighter. I am taking mine off soon and feel very lucky. I will let you know if I am deluding myself.

Edited by - on

Brian King
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2005 : 13:01:32

Frank, I just removed the grab rails on my '89 and it was a piece of cake. There was very little or no pressure on the rail from bending. Both rails came out and appear they will go back in without much stress. Maybe they have conformed to the curvature over the years. Hopefully your project will be as easy as mine.

Edited by - on

roberoo
Navigator

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USA
182 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2005 : 22:25:42

Just as an FYI. The rails on the sides of the hatch boards have screws in the front piece and under the back pieces. I actually hasd a hard time because of the bedding material. But now that I have all of the deck wood off I need to figure out how to get the bedding material off the wood and the glass also.

Edited by - on

John P
Captain

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USA
324 Posts

Response Posted - 11/22/2005 : 08:52:31

I let my wood just sit quietly for a couple of weeks, then took a stiff putty knife and scraped the old bedding material off. Followed by some real light sanding, they are all set for the spring rebed (that is, once I get the refinishing done ont the topside of the wood).

Edited by - on

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.