Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Here is my rendition of a cheap shelf for the V-berth. It is made of 1/2" sanded plywood with 1/2x3/8 fiddles that fit between the trim and the boat side. It was cut to size from a cardboard template then banded with oak. Five coats of stain to match and 5 coats of exterior clear seal were then applied. The front was made from 1/4 inch plexiglass which was sanded with 100 grit to round the edges and give the initial smoked look. Then was finished with 220 grit to smooth and then attached with #8 3/4" stainless counter sunk screws. Total cost was $25.00 because I had to buy the exterior clear seal since I only had interior stuff. If not for that it would have been around $15. I intend to do all the original teak with the clear seal since it is inside the boat.
Frog and The General C250, Pretty Penny II, #743 FLEET 25 Coronado 15, M-Cube, #3316
Looks good Jerry, that's a great addition to the forward area. Are you using the fiddles between the trim and hull to hold the shelf in? if so, then you should be able to just pop it up and move it out the way if you need to? Great idea, wish I would have done that.
that looks very similar to our shelf, holds our tv, dvd player and the room fan. underneath we have two fabric boxes that stores our clothes. any way you can add space is great. nice looking shelf
Jerry, my fellow PRETTY PENNY, what is the depth of the shelf? I measured for my "knock off" of yours: depth 18", width fore 16", width aft 34". Following your advice I'll first cut a cardboard template. I'll use 1/2" marine ply for the shelf, stain, and Man O' War spar varnish. For my fiddle, probably a strip of the ply. I'll see if I can beat your 25 buck cost
Tom, the fiddles are as you stated between the trim and hull for easy removal if required.
Frank, those are my same measurements. I used them to cut the initial cardboard then taped six inch wide strips to each side after positioning in the boat, then with a compass scribed around the edge. Then cut the strips along the line, reposition and taped them again. The side edges need to be beveled at 15 degrees.
Turk, I used two colors, the primary was Colonial Maple, I put three coats of this let it stand 15 minutes and then wiped it off. The fourth coat was done with English Walnut which I let stand for 10 minutes then wiped off the excess and rubbed it in until almost dry. Then put on the fourth coat of the Colonial Maple using the same process. I let each coat dry four to six hours, depending on my schedule, before applying the next.
All in all it turn out pretty close to the teak color. We will see if the match improves after I Clear Seal the rest of the teak.
Haven't put anything on it yet, matter of fact I took it out while I have the other teak trim removed for clear coat. Finished third coat today and will reinstall all Saturday. After that who knows, but I think I will start with my boombox there for the time being. Have to figure out how I want to reduce 12V to 9V so I can use boat battery power when no shore is available.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.