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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Have an 83 sk/tr. Windows appear to be leaking. Took the inside aluminum ring off one of them but the the rest of the unit is stuck. Communicated with one of the forum members in same straits but he hasn't completed the job yet. He suggests heat gun and guitar string. Is this what you guys recommend?
ed spengeman Indianapolis (geist) Port Captain Palakida 83 tr/sk
What do I recommend?...Hmmm?...I guess it depends on what was used to bed your frames.
On my boat, they were bedded with a gooey, gray, bubblegum type substance that gripped pretty good. I tried using a plastic putty knife to cut it, but that didn't work out so well. I eventually got them to come out using wood shims to gently pry the frame out as I worked my way around the perimeter of the frame.
When it comes to the windows, Harvey and I said if we have to do them again, it'd be easier to buy a for sale sign.
Anyway, we sat on the deck with a beer, a pen knife, a scraper, some various solvents(beyond the beer), a screwdriver and a putty knive and kept at it until they came off. Initially 5200 was what was on there so it took a long while.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Duane Wolff</i> <br />When it comes to the windows, Harvey and I said if we have to do them again, it'd be easier to buy a for sale sign.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Try using a peace of nylon line, the type that surveyors use to put from stake to stake. Take the line and slide it back and forth along the edge of the window trim to break the seal. I learned this trick when I watch some guy on one of those home repair shows cut a peace of PVC pipe. I figured if that worked to cut pvc, then it might work on our poorly designed windows, and it did.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Duane Wolff</i> <br />When it comes to the windows, Harvey and I said if we have to do them again, it'd be easier to buy a for sale sign.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Has anybody seen the article in the new "Good Old Boat"? They use 3/8" acrylic sheets and neoprene rubber sheets to replace the aluminum ringed windows. It looks like a poor mans $700 fix. Does anyone see a reason not to do this instead of using the Catalina Direct gasket kit?
I'm in the midst of doing this with a bud. We removed all six windows - on two boats (81 and an 83) in one hour. Same gray stuff we are talking about. We used a thin scrapper to open up a little wedge and then a mini crowbar. Didn't mark the finerglass, not even a scratch - gently and slowly and they almost jumped off. Nice huh?
Well - not quite. Bud with a Y but there were Coronas involved. You know you're pushing spring when you're working outside drinking a cold beer and it's in the mid 40s.
I used a fine putty knife, and the tiny pry bar mentioned above. Cleaned the fiberglass with SoftScrub and then acetone. Bought the entire window gasket kit from CD and have done two windows so far (about four hours) but it has not rained yet.... Stephen Z on "Little Wing"
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.