Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I just finished 6 coats on each side of the hull. came out very good. I was impressed even after the first coat ! I have not yet done the transom.
Question: What other applications have others used Poliglow / I was thinking of applying it to the companionway bulkhead and then to the seat wall sides in the cockpit. have others doen that ? Any reason not to do that ? What about the seats and/or textured surfaces ? i would think that textured surfaces you justr scrub and wash but has anyone been treating those surfaces with anything ?
Hi Larry, my poliglow kit should arrive today. My boat was VERY chalky. I don't think it was waxed for the last 15 years. I had a long talk with the Poliglow tech person to see if it would work for my situation and the one thing that they warned against is that if it is used on the topside non-textured surface, it is VERY slippary when wet if you are in bare feet. Other than that, they said use it anywhere. I plan on doing the entire boat, not just the hull. My boat is so bad, I have to use the four step process. 1. wash down with boat soap, 2. scrub all surfaces with T.L. Sea (now called poli something), 3. use poliprep, and 4. poliglow.
I would like to add that to be carefull of the sun glare that your gonna get on the decks, The flat surfaces will almost blind you at times, If you want to knock it down a little I would suggest softscrub.
Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to first do the companionway bulkhead and seat wall sides since the poliprep, etc stuff during the rinse will go onto the transom. Then after I finish those areas in the cockpit, i will do the transom. The non-textured and textured topsides, still not 100% sure what to do there. I may just wash, perhaps use soft scrub or smoethinsimilar to keep clean.
Another question: I noticed that on some of the textured two-tone topsides (ie. the anchor locker cover), the grey color has some spots where it has come off or deteriorated perhaps from some bird poop or something. It looks about the size of a pencil eraser tip and maybe about 10 spots like that. maybe a few elsewhere. I could leave it go but if i wanted to treat it/paint it what do you use a topside paint or a colored gel coating ? Anyone else do minor touchups ?
I've used Poli-glow on my last two boats and have been very pleased with the results.
1. Make sure you remove ALL marks, scuffs, stains, spots, bird poo, etc. Anything you don't remove is going to be permanently embedded under the poli-glow.
2. Don't use it on the cockpit sole or other flat spaces you'll be walking on....VERY slippery.
I have mixed up some gelcoat to repair some damaged area on the boat, Infact I redid the whole non-skid area on the starboard side back towards the cockpit. Here is what I did, I went down below and matched the color to the two tone sand color, I don't know if you can find a spot that has not had and UV damage, but if you can match it there, I dabbed a little at a time untill I got the right color match, Let it dry and see what you like Start light and go darker. I used White gelcoat, adding brown yellow and black to the mix, small dabbs at a time.
I cleaned the topsides really well with a thinner, then taped off the area of the nonskid, I mixed the gelcoat with the hardner MEKP, and applied it with a small roller (maybee a 4" wide x 1/2" dia. It was the kind you find at the boat store, and you have to work fast, At times it looked like it was coming aprat in strands, but I think it was the Gelcoat stringing. After its on get some PVA (its a purple color) and brush it on the gelcoat, the PVA will harden the gelcoat to a final shinny material, I let this set up and sit for about a month then took the softscrub and knocked off the shinny finish. Its been a year now and it has not chipped up, or come off at all. I figure I can get a couple of more years untill I have to re-apply it, If I am lucky It will make a chemical bond with the existing gelcoat and never come up, I don't know time will tell.
I am planning on redoing the whole boats non-skid areas if it does hold up, It was super fast to apply, kicks (dries) in 10 min. and totally hardens in about 1 hour.
If you go to the photos section you can see the starboard side in a photo there with us sailing, you can tell its a little bit darker than the rest of the gelcoat, But thats because the sun will have UV damage on it in a couple of years and it will all match.
My C25 is in desperate need of poliglow or elbow grease or some sort of removal agent. Last summer I removed PO's self adhesive signage and numbers, I used goo gone and paint remover to get all the glue off but ghosting is still quite prominent. I also have lots of oxidation and tar-like stuff to remove. So,should I be using a rubbing compound as a prep for poliglow? In a small test area,I used 220 grit sand paper very lightly around the ghosting and that seemed to be the only thing that was capable of removing all the undesirables...and so I consequently think that I'm going to need aggressive measures to get the hull prepped prior to poliglow or similar shine agent. Rubbing compound or will the poli-glow kit remove ghosting and pier tar and oxidation built up over many years
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by StSimon</i> <br />Why do people post photos so large that it requires scrolling back and forth to read everyone's posts? It's just bad manners !! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
My first time experience with the Poliprep that is in the kit with the Poliglow is that it will not remove the ghosting from the old letter, etc. When i first put on my new name on the boat, I looked over some of the old polishes, etc the PO left in the boat and tried a couple of them. That helped somewhat and since my letters were larger, I decided to go ahead and put the new name on. There is some ghosting that was present. Not very noticeable. That was back in October. This past week or so is when i started working the Poliglow on the hull sides. I first went over the marks and other smudges on the boat with polishing agents and als the ghosting once again. the ghosting was still there but again, very faint. I then used the Poliprep and it really did nothing to remove the faint ghosting that appeared. i never used any sandpaper. But my ghosting is hardly noticeable. I will say that what is noticeable after the Poliglow application is any other thing that was missed in the cleanup. I one or two scratches that I had not noticed before and now it's a shiny scratch/gouge. Also, while I removed most of the water stains, etc a perfectionist would say that the old gel coat was not exactly brough back to a new gel coat look prior to the Poliglow application and so while it is nice and shiny, i could probably have done a bit better job in preparing the gel coat. Still...compared to years ago laboring over waxing the boat with the products that were known to me at that time, now getting back into sailing and trying the Poliglow was the easiest to apply and with the best results. It's all in the prep work prior to the Poliglow application. The better the prep, the better it turns out.
If it doesn't rain today, I am going to do the cockpit vertical areas - companionway bulkhead and seat wall sides. Then the transom or i will let that go for another day. I think I may also do the other vertical sides near the windows but reading the Poliprep instructions, there are some warnings baout using it near teak wood, etc so I may take special care there in how i go about the prep.
I have a few other things I am working on when I get a chance to get back to them. Kind of multi-tasking on the boat. I am putting together some partitions/shelf made of plexiglas to put into the VBerth storage area to protect the seacock, etc and then be able to use that storage area more freely by myself and others without regard to how things are thrown around or sandwiched in there. I used cardboard to make a template for the partition sides to box around the seacock, and transducers. basically to rectangular sides and then a front partition that extends in an arc from one side of the hull to the other. These 3 sides are done but need to fit it in and see what tweaking is necessary before taking a template for the shelf that will fit on top of the partitions, over the seacock and transducers by about 1 foot. I am going to connect the plexiglas sides with oak wood sections attached to the plexiglas and then bolt the sections together. Once the top is in place, it will be solid with a box around the seacock and transducers but the shelf extending to the hull sides so that nothing stored drops around the sides. I will probably use velcro, rubber or camping pad dense matl under the plexiglas sides that touch the hull for sound dampening and gentle cradling/support of the partitions/shelf. When i get it done, i'll add it to my website in case anyone is interested.
As to photo size, it is impossible to please everyone as you never know what someone else has their screen resolution set to. On top of that, the side bar on this forum exacerbates the problem. I often have to scroll on my laptop even when there are no photos.
Poliprep won't remove the ghosting--that'll take compounding the area around it to get it to match the ghosts. It should, however, remove most stains and goop--it's strong stuff. Wear gloves, as they suggest. On a white hull, Poliprep and a medium Scotch pad (I use one with a plastic handle) will take off enough oxidation to be ready for Poliglow--on a dark hull (I have one on another boat) it's a lot trickier.
I plan to use some Poliglow on the bulkhead, cabin sides, seat sides, and coaming sides, but not the non-skid surfaces. Also, I've repaired some chips in the non-skid using the gelcoat repair you can buy in a tube, with a little brown coloring mixed in. Non-skid is very forgiving to repair--no need to get it shiny-smooth or even get the color just right. But it chips more easily because, essentially, the gelcoat is too thick.
I know that I have a hard time seeing things on the computer screen, In this post I was trying to show the difference in the color of the "new" gelcoat vs the old. Any small jpg you would have seen no difference. It's friday, Im packing up for the weekend and I am going out to the boat to sail it ALL DAY LONG, Saturday I am working on the hoist getting it back into the water, and Sunday I will be back on the lake practicing gybes and spinaker work.
Here is a smaller photo
If you have a hard time seeing the difference in the color of gelcoat you can click the link provided, Beware its a 1600x1200 image http://www.capri25.com/IMAGES/photos/1.jpg
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.