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Just bought a Catalina 25 - Random Questions

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RickyEarl
Deckhand

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3 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/30/2002 : 15:11:16

I just bought a 1981 Catalina 25. I have come across a few random questions:

1. When the jib is up it hangs over/on the bow pulpit. It looks sort of goofy, but probably does not dramatically affect the sail. Is it a big deal and how do I correct this?

2. I have a clogged sink/icebox drain. I can't find the clog. Is there an easy way to take care of this? I'm assuming "Liquid Plumber" is NOT a good call.

3. When I bought the boat, I assumed it was a standard rig, but I just found a xerox copy of a hand-drawn diagram of a tall rig in the port settee storage. Is there an easy way to find out which one it is?

4. The bottom of my tiller scrapes the deck. Is there a standard way to fix this or should I just improvise (I was going to put a bushing in to raise the pintles).

5. This is just a shot in the dark. I have two switch panels aboive the sink. One is the standard Catalina panel described in the manual. The other has lighted switches labeled "LGALL," "RGALL," "OBERTH," and "AUX1." The switches appear to do nothing (they don't affect the lights and the boat has no fans, stereo, or other electronics), but they're powered and wires run to every switch down the port side of the cabin. Any idea what they might be for?

Thanks in advance for your wisdom!

Edited by - RickyEarl on 05/30/2002 15:14:59

Edited by - on

jm
Captain

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Canada
290 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2002 : 15:38:27

1. When the jib is up it hangs over/on the bow pulpit. It looks sort of goofy, but probably does not dramatically affect the sail. Is it a big deal and how do I correct this?

Pull the jib sheet tighter. In some instances, (light winds, lax sail) the leeward side of the jib sail will rest against the bow pulpit - I've got the wear marks on my jib to prove it <grin>.

2. I have a clogged sink/icebox drain. I can't find the clog. Is there an easy way to take care of this? I'm assuming "Liquid Plumber" is NOT a good call.

Yikes - Liquid Plumber - nasty stuff, not nice to rubber hoses. Don't do it ! Close the gatevalve that is located under the galley stove, and remove the hose clamps and hose. See if you can clear the clog, which may also be from the drain hose attached to the icebox.
If you can blow air through it, then perhaps your through hull is plugged. If you still can't, perhaps the check valve is ceased/plugged - remove it and see if you can blow air through both the sink and the icebox hoses. Eventually, you'll find which is clogged.

3. When I bought the boat, I assumed it was a standard rig, but I just found a xerox copy of a hand-drawn diagram of a tall rig in the port settee storage. Is there an easy way to find out which one it is? Take your main halyard, pull it down as far as you can without losing the other end, tie a marker/stopper to a point as far up as you can reach, then pull it up until it reaches the mast head. Mark a point on the halyard length that is left over where it touches the deck at the mast step, pull the halyard back down, then measure the length of rope from your marker/stopper to where the end touched the mast step - if it is 31 ft its a tall, if its 29 its a standard.

Edited by - on

Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2002 : 17:28:47

1) What you are seeing is normal. the jib often rubs and folds up slightly on the bow pulpit. You can make an 18" long pendant to place between the bow fitting and the jib tack. This will alow you to raise the jib higher. Not legal for racing . 2)close the seacock and remove the drain lines, dont forget to check the check valve and be sure its installed in the right direstion.
3) Measure the mast as described previously or measure the sail leading edge and compare to the dimentions in the manuals section. How high is the boom above the cabin roof this is a dead give away as the tall rigs larger sail alows the boom to be much lower ( apox. 2')
4)My tiller handle scrapes too. Glue a piece of teflon on the bottom of the tiller in the area of contact or put a spacer in the cut out on top of the rudder that the tiller rests on when full down.
5) Cant help here its a custom insalation. Find a friend with some electrical talent to help.

Doug&Ruth
Wind Lass
Tacoma Wa.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2002 : 19:17:42

RickyEarl,

1. It is perfectly normal for the jib to hang over the bow pulpit. That's true not just for Catalinas, but for virtually every sailboat with a bow pulpit. Don't worry about it.

2. Before you disconnect any tubing, check to see if the seacock is closed. If so, it won't drain.

5. Just as a guess, the previous owner might have installed extra 110 electrical outlets. "LGALL" might refer to an outlet to the left of the galley; "RGALL" might refer to an outlet to the right of the galley; "OBERTH" might refer to an outlet in the V berth. "Aux" might be an unused switch, reserved for addition of another outlet if he ever chose to do so. Check to see if you have more than the usual electrical outlets. My 1981 only came from the factory with 2 duplex outlets.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2002 : 19:58:58

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
4. The bottom of my tiller scrapes the deck. Is there a standard way to fix this or should I just improvise (I was going to put a bushing in to raise the pintles).
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Hi Ricky...

One possible reason for lack of clearance may be that the pintles have been pushed up so that the pins are no longer vertical, and the straps no longer horizontal. It may be caused by excessive force on top of the rudder or tiller--such as somebody sitting on it. Something like that had happened on the boat we bought.

Additionally, splitting on the aft edge of the rudder suggested that moisture had gotten into its core (confirmed by our survey). Having read glowing comments about the new "balanced" design rudder from Catalina (and Catalina Direct, which specializes in parts for Catalinas), I decided to solve the problem with a new rudder. About 6.5 boat units later, we're very pleased with the result--the new design is indeed like power steering, and even seems to have reduced the boat's turning radius around a dock or slip.

The price is high, but the benefits for us went beyond nice steering--they included eliminating a problem of unknown severity. You just don't want to be out in a blow and suddenly have no rudder blade below the waterline, or no lower pintle attached to the rudder.

If, however, your pintles are sound and level, I'd suggest a few fender washers on top of each gudgeon to raise the whole rudder a fraction of an inch. A much cheaper solution!

Good luck with your new baby! (In many ways, the analogy is real!)

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 05/30/2002 20:01:09

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2002 : 20:06:35

"...I'd suggest a few fender washers on top of each gudgeon to raise the whole rudder a fraction of an inch." - Dave Bristle

I've always installed a nylon washer between the pintles and gudgeons to avoid metal to metal contact thus reducing wear.

Don Lucier, Northstar
C25 SR/FK

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2002 : 14:10:54

"perhaps the check valve is ceased/plugged "

Where is the check valve installed in the drain system? Was it standard?

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

Edited by - on

jm
Captain

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Canada
290 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2002 : 14:31:36

Richard - I'm not sure if the check valve I was referring to is standard equipment, but I have one attached upstream of the seagate/valve attached to the to-hull. I presume is to prevent reverse siphoning from either the sink or ice-box drains, or if the boat was heeled over so much (and the gatevalve was open) that water would flow in (that would be about 50+ degrees on the inclimeter - I haven't been there myself)..

Edited by - on

John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2002 : 14:50:00

The check valve shows up in drawings in Manuals section of the website, so I would guess it's a factory item. It's between the ice box and the to-hull valve. My boat doesn't have one and if I forget to open the to-hull (I know, I know, I need to change 'em) before draining the sink, the water goes into the ice box.

John Mason - Ali Paroosa
1982 - FK/SR #3290

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2002 : 14:56:10

Forgive me If I repeated what is above, I didn't have time to read all the responses...

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
1. When the jib is up it hangs over/on the bow pulpit. It looks sort of goofy, but probably does not dramatically affect the sail. Is it a big deal and how do I correct this?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
 Completely normal while running or sailing off the wind. You may want to get a spreader patch or stanchion patch (same thing) to reinforce the area because of the additional wear.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
2. I have a clogged sink/icebox drain. I can't find the clog. Is there an easy way to take care of this? I'm assuming "Liquid Plumber" is NOT a good call.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
 do not use liquid plumber!!! First check to see if the seacock is open or closed. After that, your better off removing the hose Its only about 3 feet long (tops) so you should be able to find the problem...make sure your seacock is closed for this!!!.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
3. When I bought the boat, I assumed it was a standard rig, but I just found a xerox copy of a hand-drawn diagram of a tall rig in the port settee storage. Is there an easy way to find out which one it is? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote> Most of the drawings had a standard rig with a dotted line tall rig superimposed. The easiest way is to take out the tape measure. Sorry I don't have another tried and true method for you
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
4. The bottom of my tiller scrapes the deck. Is there a standard way to fix this or should I just improvise (I was going to put a bushing in to raise the pintles). <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
 Do you mean the top of the transom??...I just wrapped that area of the tiller with nice cotton line, using a series of half hitches, gives it the old school look
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
5. This is just a shot in the dark. I have two switch panels aboive the sink. One is the standard Catalina panel described in the manual. The other has lighted switches labeled "LGALL," "RGALL," "OBERTH," and "AUX1." The switches appear to do nothing (they don't affect the lights and the boat has no fans, stereo, or other electronics), but they're powered and wires run to every switch down the port side of the cabin. Any idea what they might be for??<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

It may be possible that one of the switchs on the master panel provides power to the other panel. it is also possible that they provide power to something that already has a switch on it....and that switch is off. My guess would be Left Galley light, right galley light, quarterberth light and Auxillary???? I'd try and trace the wires see where they go.

dw

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dc20b3127cce9cd2f45b211a0000004010" border=0>

Edited by - on

RickyEarl
Deckhand

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3 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2002 : 16:21:12

Wow. Thanks for all the responses. Glad the jib thing is not a big deal. I will buy a pair of nylon washers/bushings and hopefully take care of the tiller. It also appears that I have a tall rig (I guess that's better?).

I checked the hose coming from the sink and from the ice box - no clogs. Where are the "to hull" valve and check valve?

The wires for that panel seem to disappear from under the port side trim. One of them stops somewhere around the bulkhead wall, another near the bow storage in the vberth. The other two seem to disappear somewhere near the port lazarette. They all stop in tight corners where I can't see where they might go next. Oh well. I'll find someone I know who understands wiring.

Duane, yes I meant the top of the transom on the tiller scraping. It looks like the pintles were replaced with the longer ones in the Catalina Direct catalog, but the gudeons are still standard, as is the rudder. That might explain why the rudder sits too low.

Again, thanks. Now I'm off to try to learn minor gelcoat repair.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2002 : 22:02:31

Ricky: The "to-hull" valve will be a lever on top of the pipe that goes through the hull. The check valve is probably somewhere in the line to the ice box--I don't know, since I don't have one.

But that brings up another issue for you to worry about... (Sorry!) Until about 1984 or 85, Catalina used the infamous "to-hull" fittings for the sink/icebox drains. They consist of a threaded bronze pipe that is surrounded by a glob of epoxy on the inside of the hull, but which has nothing on the outside of the hull to hold it mechanically. Over the years, owners have been astonished at how easily their to-hulls can be removed--suggesting the importance of replacing them with true thru-hulls (which sandwich the hull with a mushroom on the outside and a collar on the inside).

While I haven't had to do it, my understanding is that replacement involves (1) twisting out the old bronze pipe, (2) grinding or cutting away the epoxy blob around it, and (3) installing a true through hull (Marelon or bronze) in the same hole, with a backer inside (which I would make out of Starboard).

How do you know whether you have the old to-hulls or retrofitted thru-hulls? From the outside, if you see nothing but a hole in the fiberglass hull, that's clue number one. On the inside, if you see a glob of epoxy around the base of a bronze pipe, that's the proof. The primary risk, I suspect, is that in opening and closing the valve, you are incrementally stressing the bronze pipe in its rather precarious epoxy blob, where the threads on the pipe are really all that is holding it in place.

Sorry for being long-winded on this, but the years of older posts on this topic have been lost on our previous site. There are others on this forum who have done the replacement--if you want to know more from them, I'd suggest posting a new question on the issue.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 05/31/2002 22:06:20

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