Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have put together the third wheel I need for my WK trailer to use the rope launch method, it is getting welded on the trailer this week.
I realize though, that I don't know how to proper attach the tow line to the car or the trailer. Can you folks that use this method explain how you do it?
I was thinking of using a 20' tow strap like you would use to tow a car - the kind with hooks at each end...is that a good choice? Also, is 20' long enough? If I recall, the tongue extension that came with my trailer extended the tongue 4 or 5 feet, and that was almost but not quite long enough. So 20' seemed like a good length.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Kevin Mackenzie Former Association Secretary and Commodore "Dogs Allowed" '06 C250WK #881 and "Jasmine" '01 Maine Cat 30 #34
Kevin... welded? Welding on the trailer should be a last alternative as it is not good to mess with the hot dipped galvanizing. Even boring a hole should be avoided, better is to use U bolts to bolt the needed structure to the trailer.
There is a cold galvanizing spray that I've used on radio towers but even it is not near as protective as the hot dipped galvanizing that is on the trailer.
Kevin, I have a 4 inch x 25' nylon strap with eyes on both ends. Its rated for 10,000 pounds, a bit over kill but I don't have worry about it breaking. I use large shackles on both ends. On the trailer I hook the shackle to the safety chains. My safety chains do not have hooks so I form a loop by putting a nut and bolt through the links. I then put the shackle through the chain loops that I made. On the truck, I put the shackle through the holes on the hitch that you would normally hook the safety chains too. Hope that helps.
Hmmm... Good thing to learn. Actually, I just gave the shop a picture of the unit in the tech tip (along with a wheel, hub and spindle that I put together) and asked them to do the same thing. I never looked closely at how it was attached. It might be too late, they have had it all day, but I will call in the morning and see if I can guide them in the right direction.
There is so much to know, and so much I don't know. Damn...
Thanks for pointing it out Arlyn.
Tom, I as suprised the safety chains are strong enough for this. I always thought of them as being sortof chincy things that are on the trailer for form, not in the expectation of actually being used.
On the vehicle end, do you use just one of the holes that the safety chains attach to? Is that strong enough for the whole 6000 lbs, or whatever it is? Again, the material looks a little thin on my vehicle...but I (obviously) am not a mechanical engineer, or knowledgeable about this stuff...
Kevin, Our setup uses a 30' strap with hooks at both ends. The hooks are both attached to the trailer just aft of the tongue. Then the bight of the strap is passed around the ball hitch. The strap is rated at 10,000lb, and this method gives us almost 15' of extension. However, we don't have a 5th. wheel on the trailer.. wish we did! It would make a huge difference if we had to use that launch method.
If we needed to have a longer line, then I would follow the suggestion of attaching large shackles at each end, one for the ball hitch and the other for the trailer tongue.
<b>Really important!</b> Get two pair of good chocks! one to chock the trailer wheels and the other to chock the truck.
Thanks Paul. Do you attach the hooked end around the mast raising mast (gotta be a better name for that), or something else, e.g. exactly where do you attach it to the trailer?
Kevin, I hook my strap to my safety chains which are 1/4" galvanized with an working load limit(WLL) of 2600# per chain, with 2 chains that's 5600# WLL. I expect my load is close to 6500# or maybe more, (I've never weighted), Anyway when you add wheels to the equation you wont get close to needing the 5600#. You should not have a problem unless the wheels fall off the trailer and you have to pull dead weight. I don't think I would use the mast raising pole/ladder. If you don't want to use the safety chains then maybe around the tongue of the trailer where the frame V is formed.
Do not ever use anything with a metal hook. It is a sure way to invite disaster, a good example would be after pulling the boat out, it you suddenly stop, the strap will sometimes go slack.
I use a 30 foot 3 inch strap. If the ramp is steep enough, I double it up and only use half. I bought mine at the 4-wheel parts store.
I use very large shackles and hook up to my "chain holes" on the hitch. Mine seem to be big enough. On the trailer side, I have a skid plate that form a loop under the tongue that has worked for me.
The load on the strap during normal launch and recover is not too high. It all depends how steep the ramp is. A 5-1 ramp would be 1000lbs or so. The big factor is the shock loads. If your trailer gets hung up, the loads will go up quickly.
If you are worried about your hitch being strong enough, upgrade it. you can also use a spare receiver and a clevis.
There are many ways to do this, Just consider the weakest link and the situation, if it fails.
I do not allow anyone near the boat when " strapping" and keep in mind, The tounge will likely bounce some. This is normal because of the weight shift on the ramp.
I just launched mine on an old seaplane ramp here in Whidbey Island, WA. I wound up needing almost 80 feet!!!! I also carry a piece of 5/8" stayset-x line that is 50 feet. I picked it up as scrap. I just had enough and had to swim to get on the boat!
Thanks Tom. I like the clevis in the spare receiver as a "plan B".
I'll have to look at my trailer, see what makes sense to me. The chains are probably fine, I just want to look at how they are attached to the trailer.
So, the shop doing my 3rd wheel fabrication is a lot smarter than me. He says that he would never weld to a galvanized trailer, it will be bolt on. He also suggests the cold galvanizing, reapplied every 2 years, as a way to protect the pieces he is fabricating.
Kevin, I'm always looking on ways to improve my wheel set up. I hope you will post some pictures of yours when its done. Maybe the guy could make a couple while he's making yours to sell.
Tom, your right about the hooks. while loading the boat on the trailer I have occasionally pushed the trailer with the boat trying to get it up on the trailer all the way and watched the strap go slack. Hooks could very easy come undone in that situation. However I have seen some hooks have safety latches that would prevent them from coming unhooked. I'll stick to my big shackles.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.