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Catalina 25 Motor Bracket

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sbohlin
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/11/2002 : 13:34:56

I have a 1984 tall rig with the factory installed motor bracket. Will this bracket support a four stroke Yamaha 9.9 longshaft outboard? I noticed in the Catalina Direct catalog that there is a steel plate for backing the plastic (starboard?) replacement for the old wooden mount. Given the Weight of the engine (<100lbs.) is this replacement adequate?

Although the existing mount seems to be very strong,I am afraid that the combined weight and vibration of the larger motor could seriously damage the transom if the bracket is inadequate and I definately don't want to lose an engine overboard.

Has anyone had experience with this issue?

Stephen Bohlin

Edited by - on

jwilliams
Captain

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USA
357 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2002 : 14:01:35

Stephen,

If money is no object you would be best with a new motor bracket. There have been several discussions and recommendations about it in the archives.

However, if you sail on a budget, like I do, here are my thoughts.

Hey Jude is a 82, fin keel, standard rig. When my original 9.9 Johnson got cranky, I replaced it with a new, Evinrude 4S 9.9.

First, I installed a backer plate inside the quarter berth, as big as would fit, made from 1in. plywood. I installed helper springs (you can find this idea in the tech tips section) from Home Depot.

I rebuilt the bearings and bolts with parts from Gaurheur (sp?), and after a problem with the lift arm bending, had new ones fabricated from thicker SS.

I'm happy with everything but the fact that the springs are chrome plated, and after about three months start to rust. But, they're cheap, about $3 each to replace.

Someday, I know I will have to bite the bullet and install a new mount, but maybe this will postphone it till I retire.

Jim Williams
Hey Jude C25fk 2958

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2002 : 14:43:57

Hello Stephen,
Yes, we've beat this topic up probably once too often. I would point you to the archives.
Bracket manufacturers have really missed the <i>boat</i> (sorry) on this application. OMC had the perfect solution until they went into Chapter 13.
Hopefully someone has one like it on the drawing board.

Mr. Bristle, where are you?

Edited by - on

frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2002 : 15:06:11

Stephen

I too have an original motor bracket on my 84 C25. I also have a 1988 Yamaha 4 stroke on her. I dislkike it because it is difficult to control the motor tiller (see recent post "manuverability" and i must reach way down in order to tilt the motor.

Other than that it does support the weight.

Good Sailing
Frank Rich
84 C25 Sk

Edited by - on

Loren H.
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2002 : 15:11:44

Stephen,
I have a '78 SK standard rig with a Honda 8hp four stroke long shaft and went through this very same replacement issue in the off-season. My factory installed bracket, like yours, was never intended for use with a four stroke motor. The combined weight and low end torque of the motor will slowly errode the stability and strength of the bracket. My was dangerously wobbly(and falling apart) after only one season of use so I decided to replace it.

Here's were my problems began. I could not find a bracket that would lower the motor far enough to cover the entire plate. Most of the brackets out there seem to drop only to a horizontal position and are designed to raise to a very high position. (most are intended for power boats whose transoms do not raise out of the water.)

I ended up getting a Fulton 4-stroke Outboard Bracket from West Marine. Unfortunately this bracket also suffered from a poor vertical drop, lowering to just below horizontal, about 5" to little. I couldn't mount the bracket any lower so I had to get creative. I took the bracket apart and reversed the lowering handle so the bracket now lowered more than it raised. This required some modification of the channel handle but the most difficult part was fighting the springs that assist in the lifting of the motor when putting it all back together(a few extra bodies are necessary).

This helped, but after splashing I realized I could use a few more inches of drop to eliminate any prop wash in rough conditions. The mounting board had an easy five inches of clearance at the top above where it mounted to the bracet so, I cut off about 2".

This has seemed to solve the problem and now I am able to motor without hearing the creaking and groaning of the old bracket and fear of my Honda falling off.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Loren Hosford
"Epiphany"
Portland, OR

"Epiphany" '78 SK SR #352

Edited by - on

sbohlin
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2002 : 15:47:51

Thanks for the imput, I will ponder the above and see what's available in this area in terms of new brackets. If any one sees a good bracket other than those offered by West Marine I would appreciate the information.

It does seem like Catalina Direct would come up with an upgrade.

Stephen Bohlin

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2002 : 16:27:08

Stephen,
I would suggest that you read Dave Bristle's previous threads on this topic as he has done quite a bit of experimenting - including a bracket or two that he's returned.
I sure that if you e-mail him he'll be more than happy to oblige.

Edited by - on

LeighMarie
Navigator

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USA
188 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2002 : 20:33:57

It's interesting that this topic has surfaced now. I just replaced the original motor on my new-to-us 1985 C25 SW. I replaced a Honda 10 hp with a new Honda 9.9 hp 4-stroke. The previous owner said the boat has a heavy-duty bracket on there, but the place I bought the motor from said it wasn't adequate. Funny thing was, they had a new bracket right there to sell me! I have seen many other C25's and they all have the same bracket and I guess I do wonder if it really was adequate. Anyway, they installed the new bracket with full assurance to me that the height/depth of the new motor would be adequate.

I just put it in the water this afternoon, and in the down position the propeller was only half in!!! Of course, I had no ability to steer the boat once it was in the water and after manuevering it into my slip I had to manuever it back onto the trailer and returned it to them. I should add that the motor also quit on me and there is the question of whether the motor fried itself out by not having the intake valve all the way in the water. Now they're going to install the bracket lower. I got a long shaft motor which I think should be OK. I think they just took the easy route by installing this bracket in the holes for the old bracket. But with the bracket lowered I'm not sure how easy it will be to get the motor up and down.

Dave & Sharon on "Leigh-Marie"
Hull #5128

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2002 : 21:51:02

Hi Stephen... OJ is right--I recently completed my own solution to this and have some information, but I'm out of town (as usual) and can't spend the time tonight to go into it. I'll try to respond Thursday. Meanwhile, in short, my solution was a Fulton 1810 with their extension channels. It should splash tomorrow, and I'll see it in the water Thursday.

More later,

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

sbohlin
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2002 : 09:58:05

Thanks, I will look forward to hearing more details. It is good to know that I am not the only one with this problem. Thanks everyone

Stephen Bohlin

Edited by - on

Brooke Willson
Admiral

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USA
983 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2002 : 15:13:31

Two years ago my separated shoulder demanded I replace the stock Catalina bracket: I couldn't lift the motor! I tried the OMC, but its vertical range was too narrow and there was only full up and full down. I sold off the OMC and bought a Garelick from West Marine. The vertical travel is 11" (I wish it were 14" like the original Catalina), and the springs are powerful. I THINK it's approved for 4-strokes, but am not sure.

The motor that came with "Even Chance" is a 20" shaft Mariner. The prop stays in flat water on the next-to-bottom (out of four) notch, and stays pretty well in swells in the full-down position. If the shaft were 5 - 8" longer (Yamaha XL or Honda XL), it would be perfect.

The only problem is that the motor mount is too close to the transom for the tiller arm. This Spring I installed three 1/2" Starboard sheets between the motor mount and the transom, and the tiller arm comes down far enough now to be useful. Not all the way, but useful.

Brooke

Edited by - on

Spain
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2002 : 09:08:53

The OMC Motor Brackets are still available from Fairwinds Marina near Annapolis Md. The standard one is $363.33 and the heavy duty one (recommended for 4 stroke motors) is $420.24. Phone Number for Fairwinds is (301)261-1548.

I have had one aboard "Margareta" for a couple of years now and it works great. Our goal was to have a mechanism that my wife could work. It is expensive but well worth it.

Lee Spain
"Marareta" C25 No. 931

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2002 : 14:09:09

I'm back in CT... My new installation, for a Honda XLS 8hp high thrust (108 lbs) is a new Fulton 1810, which is identical to the 1820 listed in the West catalog, but has 13" vertical travel. It is also very similar to the Garelick 7090 (black aluminum) that they recommend for 4-strokes, but which only travels 9". The Fulton is "built like a tank"--heavy cast U-channels for the main supports. No measly 20hp outboard is going to bend it.

The problem with the 1810 is that, in the full up position, its handle would be against the transom--if you could even get it that far. I moaned and groaned, and then sprung for their cast aluminum extension channels that hold the bracket 5" away from the transom. I have not driven it yet, but the extensions allow the engine to tilt (with plenty of clearance) and allow the engine's tiller handle to be used very easily at about a 45 degree angle. I did have to use a file to square the mounting holes on the extensions to accept a carriage bolt going through the transom... (I need to write Fulton about that little gaffe.)

I mounted the Fulton above the ledge at the back of the quarterberth, because that area is two layers (the outer hull and the inner liner) with a high-density foam core. Below the ledge, you have only the outer hull. I also backed it with 1/2" Starboard both on the outside and inside. (Very easy to work with.) For that, I needed longer bolts than the 3"ers Fulton supplied.

The anticavitation plate is about 6" below the surface with the boat empty, and the engine easily clears the water when tilted one click. The springs are so strong that I have to push the bracket down to reach the lowest position, and I can easily pull it up with one hand. So far, I'm pleased...

I can't wait to put it to work!

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 06/13/2002 14:25:07

Edited by - on

sbohlin
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2002 : 15:44:17

Thanks Dave et alia.

Looks like this is not going to be a simple replacement but a very necessary one indeed. I am just getting started with the restoration of my boat and it is good to know there is a helpful group out there. I can see looking at the forums that these boats share many common issues as they age gracefully.

I've already found numerous answers for my questions and few questions I had not thought about asking while browsing. You will probably be hearing from me again soon.

Stephen Bohlin

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2002 : 21:45:20

Stephen... I followed this forum for over a year before we bought our boat. When we did, I knew more about the C-25 than the seller did, and was able to get more out of the survey than I otherwise could have. There's no question in my mind that this forum was one of the key reasons we chose the C-25. I only hope that I can return the favor for others who come along. You can, too!

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

walkerman
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2002 : 00:12:10

Hi folks,

I too have motor mount problems.
I have a 1984 SRFK C-25.
The boat has a Garelick bracket on it.
At least one of the springs on the bracket has broken.
This happened right after I unmounted the motor and cut a couple of inches off the backing plate to allow the motor to go lower into the water. Now it won't latch in the lowest position, or in the uppermost position! No good idea goes unpunished!
I may try the Fulton bracket, but I'm concerned. I have a little bitty 5 HP Nissan 4-stroke. It must only weigh 50-55 lbs. I don't want to get a bracket that is designed for a much heavier motor, and then have to ue a come-a-long and a bag of cement to get the motor down.

All the ads in West Marine say specifically say "not for use with four-stroke motors". I assume that this is a weight thing completely, and that my little 5HP would work fine on a bracket designed for a 10 HP 2-stroke.
Any ideas?

Thanks,
Brian Walker
1984 C-25 4125 SRFK

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2002 : 12:42:37

Brian: I think you're right... The other factor for 4-strokes is that some now have "high thrust" props and gearing, which along with extra long shafts, adds to the stress. But I don't think that's an issue for you.

Our Fulton with a 108 lb Honda requires a little downward push to engage the lowest position... You might have to stand on the motor to get it down.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2002 : 12:05:40

For those of you with broken springs who would still like to keep their outboard mount take a look in the tech tip section at the booster spring instalation http://c25c250.best.vwh.net/restricted/cokie.html

Doug&Ruth
Wind Lass
Tacoma Wa.

Edited by - on

wmkoines
1st Mate

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56 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2002 : 14:09:54

Note to Jim Williams

I did the same thing you did, but I used Stainless Springs. A pack of 3 cost $10.59 + shipping.

Go to mscdirect.com

Part number 91667329 0.75x0.075x5.00 Spring.

For your Information

Edited by - on

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