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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I was swimming under my bolt today and discovered one of the four bolts that hold the keel on is broken off. Anyone else have experience with repairing something like this? I can buy new bolts cheap online for $16.00 but how can I get the old one out?
Regards,
There are 10 kinds of people in this world. Those that understand binary and those that don't
I had the same problem. My boat was on the trailer when i found the broken bolt. I found a machine shop that was willing to remove it. I would have done it, but dont have the right stuff for removing bolts. As i recall it cost me about $100 and took the machinist close to a day to remove it. He told me it was a very tedious process, because he had to start small and keep increasing the size of bit he used until he had it almost to the threads. Then he had to clean out the threads themselves with a tap. I believe he said that the stainless is 316 which is very hard. Good luck
It also depends on where to bolt is broke off. If you remove the keel and hinge/hangers, there may be enough stiking out to grab onto. If not, then do your self a favor and buy a good set of bits from a machine shop supply store.
Repair by removing the two hangers and lowering the keel sounds like a good procedure and it would also give you a chance to evaluate the 3 other bolts. You could also determine the depth you have to drill as not to drill so deep as to create an other project. You hope the other bolts are easily removed to let you repair and replace, torque and seal the new bolts. It's a chance to inspect the pin and other keel hardware too. Practice drilling SS, pick the drill and the speed to drill right down the center and don't break off the easy-out. Just some thoughts before you decide what process to follow. Hope all works out.
By all means try getting the broken bolt out as described above. However, if it won't come out without damaging the female threads in the hull, there is a factory specified procedure for replacing the threads. I haven't done it on a C-25 (there goes any credibility this post might have had), but it looks real straight forward and easy to me. I'd put the tipping point (between the two procedures) at around $100 to $150. Before getting too deep into surgically extracting a really stubborn bolt, I suggest you contact Catalina Yachts for a price quote on the parts (they're cheap) and a printed copy of the installation instructions (they're free).
A short version goes like this. Get access to the bilge directly above the offending fastener (may involve cutting an access opening in cabin sole depending on which side, and what model interior). Grind down into the top of the huge lump of fiberglass surounding the broken bolt. Doing this will expose a large flat metal 'nail head'. While one person heats the flat metal surface with a really big soldering iron from the top, another person drives the threaded sleeve up from under the boat with a hammer and punch. Once the old part is removed, use a grinder and drill to clean up the surface and hole so the new part fits right. With a waxed threaded rod in the new threads to seal them (and to pull down with), install the new part with epoxy. If you anticipate having any trouble getting the new part to pull down all the way while the epoxy clock is ticking, be ready to pull it down from under the boat with all-thread, nut, washer, and a drilled scrap of 2x4. Relaminate new fiberglass over the 'nail head' where it was ground away. If an access opening was cut in cabin sole, convert the rectangular cutout into a removable cover and reattach with your choice of nautical looking hardware (or gravity).
-- Leon Sisson
P.S. As noted by Cate below, I'm describing replacing this part (which is what your bolt broke off in): <center> </center> (Edited to add illustration.)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Sloop Smitten</i> <br />Actually what they say is you can not drill out for an "oversize" bolt. Drilling out and tapping to the original size should not be dangerous. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yeah I don't want to drill out and put new threads in hopefullt I can drill a small hole in the bolt and use an easy out to get it out
The guy who did mine in the machine shop said that it was impossible to get an easy out in and put enough torque on it to turn out the broken piece. Thats why he had to use graduating bit sizes till he got it cleaned out just shy of the threads, then he cleaned out the threads by re tapping them. He said even then it was a real chore. But if you can get it out with an easy out, more power to you. I'll be curious to know how it goes.
ps, he also said he had to stablize the drill going in so that it went in straight and didnt bang up the sides. Also, he started with the easy out method.
This is not a situation where you can use heat to assist so what ever sized the bolt will probably be bad enough to shatter the more brittle ez-out; high probability of ez-out failure in this situation.
How is it best to prepare to take out the bolts and the cable eye? Clean off excess paint. Try to get room for socket to fit. Maybe grind down perifery of socke so it fits better. Anythin else?-heat wd-40..
I think I'm the lazy type. by this point in my life I've learned what jobs i can accomplish and which take more sophisticated tools and exprience than I have. I cant count the times that I started what i thought should be an easy job and ended up buying tools that I would never use again and that weren't made for the job at hand, then ended up after two or three days of total frustration taking the job to the person i should have done in the first place. In the case of this particular job, I looked at it and decided that it was exactly one of those other hundred times. But let us know if you're successful.
I wouldn't be surprised if that's how the bolt head got broken. A socket binding on the side of the hinge recess puts tremendous side-stress on the bolt.
I spent some 'quality time' lying under my boat with a dremel tool and a small burr to get enough clearance for a thin-wall socket to fit. Once the fit of the socket was taken care of, the bolts came out easily. Cause of the problem seems to be due to sloppy alignment/installation of the fiberglassed in 'nuts'.
Good news. I was able to get the boat on the trailer. Upon inspection the three remaining bolts are not seized and turn easily. I think once I drop the Hangar using the all thread method I will be able to twist out the stub that is left.
I have a new set of boats coming from catalinadirect. The new bolts come with loc-tite and some sort of primer. They are scheduled to be here Wednesday. I replaced the cable today too. If all goes well I'll be saling by this weekend!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.