Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi: I understand that when Catalina discontinued the swing keel model the floor in the galley was redesigned for more head room. Does anyone know what year that was (1988, 89 or 90), how much more head room did one pick up and was it done to both later model fin and wing setups? Thanks for any info... Bruce
The floor was a huge part of the redesign but the pop-top, and hatch area were also redesigned. I am 5'9" without shoes I can stand freely with shoes on under the hatch area. I am ok while in the boat. I sleep on it several nights a week during the summer, I notice but rarely curse the headroom. If I had a small hatch I could pop open for head room while standing in front of the Porta Potty I would use it. I removed the folding doors and tracks to "open up" the passage. I loved my 82, it was a very nice boat when I sold it. My 89 is more comfortable. I think someone 5'7" or under could be very happy on the uneven floor especially with a fin which cleans up the cabin considerably. I am a big fan of the Capri 26 and think it a really nice upgrade from a Catalina 25, the "89 wing" is the interim step. I will take some measurements for you Friday if someone else doesn't do it first.
I own an 88 wing with the redesigned floor pan. Although I am 6' tall I am relatively comfortable standing in the main cabin, I have adopted a kind of slouch which gives me an added inch or so of standing room. What really gets me is moving from main cabin to head and forward cabin. With a hat on I end up bashing my head a lot if I don't remember to bend low. The bill on a baseball cap causes an overhead blind spot which gets me two or three times a season.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by aeckhart</i> <br />I own an 88 wing with the redesigned floor pan. Although I am 6' tall I am relatively comfortable standing in the main cabin, I have adopted a kind of slouch which gives me an added inch or so of standing room. What really gets me is moving from main cabin to head and forward cabin. With a hat on I end up bashing my head a lot if I don't remember to bend low. The bill on a baseball cap causes an overhead blind spot which gets me two or three times a season. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> I am 5'8" and do the head bash every other time out. I am thinking of putting a sign on the floor that says <font color="red"><font size="4"><b>Look Up!</b></font id="size4"></font id="red">. I would remove the overhead track but the admiral likes the screen when using the head (of course she is 5' and does not even know the track is up there).
We have an 85 fin keel and I am stooped over in most of the cabin. I am also like ilnadi above, I do very well until I go to the head or to the V berth. That d**n screen slide catches me every time and I come home with a bruise in the center of my head where it hits. I think I might have hit on a solution though.. I thought about stringing up one of those bead thingy's that are used in doors. That way I will see the beads hanging down when I go forward. Of course I will probably look up and hit my head when I do
For a quick fix, I slipped a piece of foam pipe insulation over the track. It cushions the inevitable bashing and it is removed easily if someone wants to close the curtain. Years ago someone recommended removing those buttons from the top of the baseball cap. It was unpleasant getting whacked in the same place, same scab in the top of my head, until I tried it. An electrician's diagonal wire cutter will clip it off easily.
I have the same perminent crease across my head from that cross member. I've been looking at it lately thinking that the only reason it is there is to provide a level surface for the accordian door; which I no long have. Can't that cross member just be removed? I see no reason why, but might be missing something. Cheers.
I once read that if you are living a a sailboat, or any boat for that matter, degree you have to leave modesty dock side. With that in mind, not having the curtain is a good solution and taking that piece of plywood out of there would solve the head bashing problem. However, the little privacy it affords is better than none at all so I've left the curtain in place for those females who happen to be on board.
And I use three sea shells... no wait that is different, I use three cup hooks. My track and doors are long gone. One cup hook at the top of the mast support, one on the vanity side and one an equal distance to port. Most of the time the curtain is "swung" to port and the little vinyl door lash is snapped in place. Very out of the way. When needed for privacy the starboard curtain grommet is swung off the port hook and onto the starboard hook, the centerline grommet stays on its hook all the time. This is a silk shower curtain with the bottom hemmed to fit the curve of the sole.
DANM - I like the idea of the foam insulation on the cross member and if my memory serves I have some onboard. I am experimenting with using the black foam insulation on the swim ladder. Not real cheap stuff, but they kind that is used for air conditioner pipe insulation. It has a smooth surface and is much more plyable than the real cheap kind. I am still trying to find a glue to keep the sliced side together though. In the heat, the sticky glue that is already on the insulation lets go and falls off of the swim ladder. However, the insulation sure makes climing on the ladder much more comfortable to the feet.
<font color="blue"> I am still trying to find a glue to keep the sliced side together though. - Mike</font id="blue">
Hi Mike,
Aren't you an R/C airplane flyer, or did I dream that? If you are, you're very familiar with "CA glue" (cyanoacrylate, like "super glue"). I'd bet CA would hold it, but be prepared to cut the insulation off when it needs replacing ... once that seam is stuck together, it won't come apart.
Glue I used the same insulation to pad my kayak rack. Good contact cement has held it together for 3 years sometimes at 80+ mph. CA is rigid and brittle and may not be as effective in this application.
Buzz - You are correct, I am and R/C Airplane flyer and CA might do it. I will make a test run in the shop before putting it on the insulation at the boat. It has a tendancy to melt stuff and I am not sure about the insulation. However, it's certainly an easy test. And one other thing, once you set the joint it ain't movin'.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.