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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I need to winterize my diesel engine (Universal model #415330 - 10hp). Does anyone out there have one of these on their boat? I am curious to know where to find the seacock to shut off the freshwater (saltwater) intake; and where to find the hose that brings saltwater into the heat exchanger. From an friend, I understand winterizing the engine is a matter of shutting off the seacock, disconnecting the influx of sea water, sticking the intake tube/hose into a bucket of non-toxix anti corrosion antifreeze, running and running the engine until the antifreeze comes out the exhaust. Sounds simple, but before I actually do it, I need some help. If all else fails, I can call the diesel mechanice at my marina and have them do it while I watch....
Changing the oil is not as difficult.
Thanks!
S/V Prima Donna 1986, 15 HP Universal Inboard Diesel, Fixed keel, Hull # 5362
Don't know about your Universal, but on my Yanmar, the hose bringing in the sea water and the hose bringing in water for the heat exchanger is the same. Look for a thru hull fitting with its hose leading to the engine...that's it. IMHO, I would not leave that sea cock open when you are not on the boat. Whenever I leave my boat, to return home, I close all sea cocks. If you have questions, as you stated, watch the diesel mechanic do it, take good notes, then you can do it next and following years.
Thanks! Now I just have to find the seacock. I like your notion of closing all of them when leaving the boat. More than once, I have lost sleep on this one....Can you tell me where the seawater intake seacock would be on my C-25?
Daren, The seacock should be in the area on the starboard side of the engine, near the front. It should have a clear plastic chamber with a red screen filter, connected to it.
Torresen.com is definitely the place to start for information on your engine. I was surprised when I googled the 10hp and didn't find anything. Because, I know I've seen reference to the 10 hp universal in older 25's. According to my manual, they have the engine rated at 10 hp, so I would guess you have the m-12 or m2-12. I quess they round up to the next even number, to make the engine seem bigger.
Looking at the manual a little more, the difference between the m-12 and the m2-12 is one is 10hp and the other 11hp respectively. The bore for the cylinders is a hair bigger on the m2-12 and everything else is the same.
Let me know if you'd like me to copy some of the manual and get it to you. With a little time, I could get it scanned in and e-mailed to you. This goes for anyone else who needs a copy of the owner's manual,
Lots of helpful information on the Universal webpage and here as usual. So, I'll head down to my boat this weekend and come hell or highwater, the oil will be changed, the engine will be winterized, and the sails will be taken off. I am sure as soon as I get all the winterization done, the temps the following weekend will be in the 60's and I'll just be balling my eyes out. I am scheduled for haul out first week in January so then I can focus on the batteries, waxing, and plan the painting and other projects.
The seacock on my boat is right under the wooden panel in the quarterberth step under the stairs. Mine is brass. See if you have a water strainer. If you don´t you´ll have to pull off the hose from the seacock and stick it in RV antifreeze and then start the engine and run it until the antifreeze comes out of the exhaust in the transom. I have a water strainer on my boat, so I disconnect the hose that comes OUT of the strainer and stick that in the antifreeze. I really don´t pull the hose off the seacock because mine has a 90 degree elbow on it and that means pulling the hose off perpendicular to the seacock which I don´t think is such a good idea. Also, top off the regular antifreeze in the engine and top off your fuel tank with diesel and also put in a dose of biocide AND a dose diesel fuel preservative. A tank full of diesel will prevent water from getting in the tank and the biocide should kill any lifeforms growing in the fuel-water interface (if you have water) that will affect your fuel filter and the ability of engine to run. By the way, if I wasn´t clear as to where to find the seacock. On my oberdorfer water pump there is one hose going to the intercooler. That´s not it. Follow the other hose back to the seacock. Also by the way, the intercooler has a zinc on the port side. You should think about making sure this zinc is still doing it´s job.
My post about a zinc in the intercooler should have said on the BOTTOM of the intercooler (screws in from underneath) on the port side. My experience with diesel mechanics is that it´s impossible on our boats to be watching (let alone taking notes) while they work. It is just to cumbersome and tight to work there. How is your packing on the shaft?? I´m asking because I did call a mechanic to fix my packing and he swore that he didn´t have enought shaft length between the nuts and the transmission to do the job. Basically he had to unscrew the engine from its mounts and pull the whole thing (engine,transmission,shaft) to get just enough room to put some new packing in, though not enough room to put the packing size recommended by the manufacturer. Contrary to many other people, I enjoy changing the oil.
After weeks of procrastination and woe, we finally winterized the engine.
Changed the oil and flushed the seawater intake with non-toxic anti corrosive antifreeze. Good thing the West Marine store is walking distance from my slip.
I had spent a lot of time gathering information on how to go about the winterization of my M-15 Universal 11 hp engine. The biggest items and for the most part the only work to do was to change the oil and oil filter and flush the fresh/sea water cooling system.
Changing the oil and filter was not really any different from the method I have been using for the last 20 yrs. on my vehicles; except for one case. Instead of draining the oil in the M-15, I had to get a siphon type pump that extracts the oil from the same place as where the dipstick is retracted from. There is a drain plug on the engine, but access to it would’ve been impossible. After the oil pan was sucked dry, I removed the oil filter and put a new one on. Then opened the engine case and poured 2.5 quarts of new oil into the engine. After the filler cap was replaced, we cranked up the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes.
Next step, flush the seawater cooling system. This was the activity I was really freaked out about. I didn’t know where the seacock was, I didn’t know where the strainer was, I didn’t know where the seawater went into the engine, and I was afraid I’d screw it up and destroy my engine. Well, after I found out what engine I have and got some good intel on it, I was prepared to move out on the maintenance procedure. This is a two person operation, by the way….
The seacock and the strainer were in the hold just below the cabin steps. I closed the seacock, then took the cover off the strainer to clean the mesh screen by hand. The strainer was pretty clean. Put strainer cover back on. Disconnected the hose from the strainer to the water pump; then stuck the hose into one of the one gallon jugs of non-toxic antifreeze. Now all we did was start the engine and look for the purple stuff coming out of the transom, which it did. We ran two gallons through and then shut her down for the winter.
Pretty simple operation.
Next step….remove all the sails and cover the boat before the first snow. Never in my life have I actually didn’t want it to snow.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.