Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Looking back over my notes since we first got JD, I thouht it might be of some use to new owners to list the ones that made the greatest impact (sic).
<b>If I knew these things before our first launch...</b>
a) Go oh so slow near the slip. Because:We bent our bow light unit on our first foriegn port of call.
b)Pull the fenders in before pulling the boat onto the trailer at the ramp. Because: Stops them catching on the poles and making it tough to align the boat and even causing scratches when the trailer guide poles are pressured onto the hull.
c) Don't leave the jib on the furler when trailering. Because: It's so easy to remove the sail prior to trailering and to hoist it when the mast is up that it is not worth the dirt and grim at 50+mph that makes a mess of the edges of the sail on the furler.
d) If you have wheel steering, install a soft link with heavy bungies. Because: If you don't you can hit the rudder with the prop (twice!)
e) When you raise the mast, put a fender on the cabin top just aft of the maststep. Becuase: It eliminates any risk of scratching the cabin top in that area with the foot of the mast, and it acts as a suspension unit making it easy to set the mast foot bolt in place in the maststep.
f) Always double check to use the securing pin for the stern mast support. Becuase: When the mast support jumps out of the gudgeons the mast is at risk of .... well at risk!
g) Pay great attention to the balance of the boat on the water. Because: When the (C250WB) boat is unbalanced, eg. Stern heavy, then steering is a pig! We ended up putting a 32Gallon water tank in the V-Berth and reefing the main when over 15kts of wind. Now sails like a charm (When we first put the boat in the water, the lower edge of the bow was actually out of the water!)
h) When the breeze is moving you along your desired course and the boat is balanced well and the crew are happy... take a picture! Make it your intent to take lot's of them like that!
Hmmm... Bent bow light, scratched hull, scuzzy jib, gouged rudder, scratched cabintop, possible slight bow in mast,... Sounds familiar! Good stuff--if I were getting a 250, I'd print this right away!
Hmmm, I have not launched our 250 yet but I did mess with the Honda 9.9 OB the other day. It really does not turn to starboard much at all because the OB handle hits the transom. I figured I'd be locking the OB in centered position and steering with the rudder only. Should I change the OB mounting some way?
Never mind. I searched the archives and got the answers.
Paul, Yes, I had all the same issues with my C250WB. I can add some.
- More fenders while docking (until you get the hang of it). Forward cleat, forward stanchion, shrouds, aft stanchion, aft cleat. I've hit the dock every way you can think of.
- Remove the rudder before leaving the parking lot. It's optional, but I sure feel better knowing it's not bouncing down the highway.
Nautiduck, I have a Honda 8hp classic. The cockpit mounting bracket is wider than the outboard. I move the outboard as far as I can starboard and still be on the bracket. I steer with the outboard control arm at 45 degrees (it takes practice). This allows for full range of motion. I know the Honda 9.9 is larger, so I hope this helps. Russ #793
As well outlined, the lightness and windage of the 250 require extra docking efforts so the new sailor really has a difficult learning curve to cope with.
In my opinion, coordinated control of the rudder and motor is the single greatest help when handling the boat in and around a slip. Steerage speeds with the rudder for the new sailor can get out of control leaving motor steering at slow speeds a safer way to go. Ideal is to link the rudder and motor and that can be done on the 250 easily with the soft link.
The Honda 9.9 can be effectively controlled but requires settup effort. The motor must be positioned as far to starboard as possible in the well. The tilt axle should be within 1/16 inch of the starboard side of the well. This might mean removing the high density board on the transom and replacing with a larger. Whatever it takes, get the motor as far starboard as it will go.
Mine also required grinding some relief to a portion of the tiller arm so as to achieve 25-30 degrees of starboard turn before the arm is stopped by the fuel locker. That amount is sufficient to gain reasonable control.
The softlink works very well with wheel steering, masking the tug of the bungee. Wheel steering also has rudder stops that prevent the rudder and prop from trying to share space.
The overall result is a much easier task at controlling the boat.
The tiller model might enjoy a hard steering link so as not to experience bungee tug and to prevent the possibility of the prop getting into the rudder.
Either way... a link should be easily disconnectable as it will be desired only during slow docking. When heading out the fairway... the motor should be centered and locked.
1. Around a dock, the boat will respond very well to the rudder if you use short bursts of power an then idle the engine down.
2. If you have a tiller, avoid pushing it past 45 degrees--past that point it ceases steering and becomes a brake (slowing the boat as it plows forward or backward in an almost straight line).
3. If you leave the outboard centered, in forward gear it pushes the stern to starboard (turning the boat to port), and in reverse it pulls the stern to port (turning the boat to port), particularly when you gun it with the boat standing still or moving slowly. It's called "prop walk", and it's why powerboats with twin engines have one left-hand prop and one right-hand prop. So, if you want to get away from a dock on your starboard side, backing out is often the most graceful way--the motor will pull you away from the dock instead of pushing you into it. But just being aware of prop-walk can make your life easier around a dock or slip. So, push the engine tiller slightly to port (as if turning to starboard, to counter the prop-walk), gun the engine to get some way, and then idle back to steer in or out of the slip with the rudder. It won't matter much how far you can turn the engine.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.