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Installing a Raytheon ST2000+ Autotiller

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dblitz
Navigator

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240 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/27/2006 : 11:31:12

My brother gave me an autotiller (Thanks, Charlie). Can anyone give me a headsup as to proper mounting location on my 86 C-25 as well as the best place to mount the electric socket (my guess is in the coaming, but not sure) and the correct electrical hookup of the wiring?
Also, what adapters will I need to buy from Raytheon?
Any pictures would also be appreciated.

Daniel 86 "Solar Wind" #5339 C-25 FK/SR I/B Diesel

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2006 : 12:44:55

Daniel,<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dblitz
 ... proper mounting location ... best place to mount the electric socket (...my guess is in the coaming, but not sure) and the correct electrical hookup of the wiring?
Also, what adapters will I need to buy from Raytheon?
Any pictures would also be appreciated.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I have used a Raytheon ST2000+ Autotiller on my C-25 for years. It's a GREAT autopilot for a C-25!

My mounting socket is installed on top of the stbd coaming at the recommmended distance from the pintles. I suggest mounting it several inches closer to the pintles for better helm response. (I asked a tech at Raytheon about that distance while discussing some other issues. He said there's nothing sacred about the specified number -- it's more of a recommendation or suggestion.) Mounting on top of the coaming requires a 5" or so ram extension. If you like, I can measure mine later and edit this post to add the exact length.

I would if at all possible mount the 6-pin electrical connector inside a coaming pocket. Mine's in an exposed location, and sometimes acts flakey due to contamination. By the way, I heard a rumor the connector which came with mine is no longer in production (and hence irreplacable, as is the protective cap). I'd be curious to know what connector yours came with.

The unit should come with instructions and wiring diagrams. Of the six wires, two are power & ground, two are SeaTalk interface (required for wind vane accessory I think), and two are NMEA 0183 interface, which can talk to your GPS. Raytheon sells some very cool autopilot wiring which has all the needed wires, in the appropriate sizes, in a shielded and insulated bundle. The per-foot price is outrageous, but you only need a few feet.

I strongly suggest powering the ST2000+ Tillerpilot through a dedicated, conveniently located circuit breaker. It seems Raytheon tillerpilots don't have limit switches. When the ram reaches the end of its travel, the motor just groans and tries harder. This results in a sudden increase in current which can blow a properly sized fuse, or flip a breaker. As you can imagine, this doesn't happen in flat calm conditions. It happens when the weather is so rough the rudder is momentarily over powered. This leaves the helm held hard over by the powerless tillerpilot. That wouldn't be my favorite time to be searching for a spare fuse down below.

--- Leon Sisson

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Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2006 : 14:28:10

It would be great if you could post some pictures of your's as i am too considering installing this one. I also did not realize the other options that come with it. Almost sounds like it (almost) doesn't need the captain!!!!

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farrison
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166 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2006 : 15:20:57

Daniel;

I also have a tiller pilot mounted on the stbd side above the small compartment that nobody can seem to find a good use for..... Anyway, mine is an older model that has only a four pin connector, not a six ( no NMEA interface). I have a 4 or 5" post that screws into a socket in the side of the coming and a pin in the autopilot goes into a hole in this post. I too did not have any instructions or wiring information when I bought my boat. But they have a good website, and I downloaded the entire owners manual from there. It had wiring and programing info for the unit in the manual.

But before you install it, check out the archives for an istallation that someone did several years back. This (ingenious) person put a Beckson inspection plate in the bottom of the small, stbd. mystery compartment mentioned above. He then mounted the autopilot under this compartment in the quarterberth and ran the ram through a waterproof rubber boot in the side of the cockpit to a bracket on his tiller. The controls for the autopilot were accessed through the Beckson plate. Very clean and out of the way, and protected from the weather. He obviously used it a lot and wanted it set-up and easy to use, but not in the way when not using it. It's worth searching the archives just to see this clever installation and maybe get some ideas of your own.

Paul

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farrison
Navigator

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USA
166 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2006 : 15:31:31

Daniel;

Type in "autopilot installation" in the google search of 'our website'on the left hand side of this page. The installation I mentioned in my previous post is there under "Below Decks" Autopilot Installation by Christopher Chung. It's in this link, but I cant figure out how to copy it as a link, sorry.

www.catalina-capri-25s.org/tech/tech25/sunris.asp - Supplemental Result

Paul

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2006 : 16:21:27

I mounted my ST2000 on the PORT side. It is opposite the outboard motor, so I don't have to step over it to do something to the motor. I also mounted the pin 2" closer to the centerline of the pintles/gudgeons than what they recommended as I have a semi balanced rudder, and the unit is strong enough to take it. If you mount on the port side, you must reprogram the unit for port mounting. the electrical socket is inside the coaming

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Steve Siefken
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 12/28/2006 : 19:04:09

I mounted my ST 1000 on the port side as well, for the same reason Frank mentioned above. I also mounted the electrical connector in the coaming box. Thought it would be better protected there.

I ended up mounting the autopilot to the cockpit bench. The only down side to that is I do not the same access to the gas compartment, the lid does not lift up quite as far. Although it is not the biggest deal in the world, I would have done it differntly had I thought about that... live and learn I guess.

Good luck!

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gnorgan
Admiral

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USA
563 Posts

Response Posted - 12/28/2006 : 19:51:25

I mounted mine on the port side also and installed the plug inside the coaming as well. Check out my install at:
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/tech/tech25/tt003.asp
Best addition to your boat you can make.
BTW, I shortened the mounting post to about 4 inches to avoid it hitting the bottom of the unit.
I also got rid of the bracket under the tiller. Instead, I just drilled a 1/4inch hole upward in the bottom edge of the tiller and epoxied the pin in place. It points downward so I thought it might just fall off the pin when in use. It does not. It stays hooked to the pin all day long while in use. Perfect. Simple. KISS system at its very best.

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Brooke Willson
Admiral

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983 Posts

Response Posted - 12/28/2006 : 20:22:43

Christopher Chung's belowdeck installation is a nice piece of work, but the idea of lifting the seat top and reaching down through a port to adjust the tiller controls doesn't appeal to me. I suppose the arm below his tiller can be lifted easily off the tillerpilot in case there needs to be a sudden and radical course correction (crab pots and floating logs come to mind, not to mention jet skis and other clueless and/or arrogant stinkpotters), but the tillerpilot would then go nuts trying to correct the course until you reached down through the port to hit "Standby."

Daniel, remember wherever you mount the tillerpilot, it is designed to interface with the tiller 18 inches from the pintles. For what it's worth, mine is port side (my motor is to starboard), much ilke Gary's, running from a screwable mount on the vertical coaming surface. My pin, however, is on the top of the tiller. The power socket is immediately below the screwmount. I keep the cap on the socket when not in use, and in seven years of saltwater usage there's been no problem.

Brooke

Edited by - Brooke Willson on 12/29/2006 08:11:30

Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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1916 Posts

Response Posted - 12/29/2006 : 08:29:09

The reason I mounted my autopilot closer to the centerline of the pintles is this:
Since the ST2000 is sized for boats from our size, to slightly larger I figured it has adequate power to handle the decreased lever arm distance. I also have a semi balanced rudder. Mounting it closer will give it a faster response time, even though it is probably imperceptable. I mounted the pin on top of the tiller, and the receiver socket (if in fact that's what it is called) in the top of the port side. With the curve of the tiller handle, and mounted in this position, the pilot is just about level. Also, you don't have a mounting arm sticking out to trip you if you don't have the pilot installed, just a flush socket. I required a 5" extension to accomplish this.
I have an older model with a wired remote, and the remote control wiring socket is mounted inside the cabin just to the side of the sink cabinet next to the steps. Out of the weather. The wireless remote wasn't available at the time I bought mine, but the wired remote was free.
I do intend to retrofit a circuit breaker to my panel to handle this load. I have three circuit panels throughout the boat for all of my electrical needs, extra panels gives you lots of switches to turn devices on and off.
This is my opinion, I may be wrong

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