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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I just resealed all my windows using the Cat. Direct grey gasket material; since it appears that water is entering the cabin from around the window gasket (not the frame of the window), I was wondering how this can be cured? Should I take the windows apart and seal the gasket around the window itself with silicone sealant? The reason I did NOT do this the first time around is because I was under the mistaken impression that the gasket material itself was a self-sealing type. How do I get this sealed with silicone without making a total mess - or is this what normally happens? Thanks in advance,
Thanks for the warning and advice - neither one helped and <b><i><font color=red><font size=6><font face='Arial'>***** THAT'S WHY I POSTED THE QUESTIONS!*****</b></i></font id=red></font id=size6></font id='Arial'> Now, perhaps someone else might share some real insight. ;)
I've heard the window gasket/sealant used by your local autoglass installer (Standard Auto Glass?) is very good, and might improve your situation. You might try it, and/or ask them to assist..
Stephen, As you probably figured out you when installed it, the grey gasket on the inside of the window is cosmetic. When I re-did my windows, the outside gasket had hardened and shrunk. The glass is epoxied to the frame. I spent many hours removing the old epoxy from the frames (I had smoked glass replacements made and the frames re-anodized.) I spent even more time removing the silicone that the previous owner had <i>smathered</i> on the glass, the frame, the cabin liner and the exterior. With the availability of ever improving materials, I didn't even consider using new gaskets from Catalina. I purchased a butyl rubber product (in a caulking tube) from an auto glass store. When cured, it formed a gasket that was firm yet pliable. I used silkaflex between the window frame and the cabin exterior. See my other post about allowing the silkaflex to cure, forming a gasket, before tightening the frame all the way. These two surfaces are the only ones that keep the weather out. I hope <i>this</i> post provides more insight than the last <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> .
I'm going out on a limb here and will disassemble my windows and throw out that crappy grey "leaking guaranteed" gasket I got from Cat. Direct and will go with your advice, re. the butyl rubber caulking - now for the details....did you first run a bead of the butyl rubber in the groove where the glass rests in the frame and then slide the glass in there or did you run it after assembling the frame? By the way, I'll stick with the silicone - it seems to be working fine and besides, I still have couple of tubes left. ;)
The only grey gasket that I'm aware of was the inside one - which again is only cosmetic - which I re-used. The <font color=blue><i>outside</i></font id=blue> gasket was the one I chose <font color=blue><i>not</font id=blue></i> to replace - and used butyl instead. As far as assembly is concerned, the original glass (inside surface) was epoxied to the frame from the factory and I used epoxy to re-attach my new glass. I applied the epoxy to the ribbed surface then re-inserted the glass and closed the frame. I used cedar shims to hold the glass in place until cured (ya still with me here Stephen?) Then I applied the butyl caulking between the outside surface of the glass and the frame. I notched a plastic spreader to taper the butyl at 45% so the is epoxied surface is blocked from UV (epoxy is not UV resistant.) Stephen, I'm a little concerned that we're not communicating clearly here - so please read my posts word for word and follow-up with <font color=blue><i>any</i></font id=blue> questions - dude.
Steve Madsen #2428 OJ (<img src=icon_smile_evil.gif border=0 align=middle>de to Joy)
<font color=blue><font size=6>Don't throw it away just yet</font id=size6> </font id=blue>
<font size=3>Catalina Direct recently came out with a new gasket. The first is the one that is visible from inside the cabin, as noted above it is purely cosmetic. The second is something they call glazing that fits around the glass and into the frame. Catalina Direct recomends using Life Caulk (it might be life seal, I get that crap confused so call and ask, The salesman I had on the phone was smart enough to scam me with a "Special Caulk" that I ate up in a second, only to find I paid 14 bucks for the "life" product...)with this stuff. I recommend it too, so that if it doesn't work, you have means for redress. I can't vouch for it but did purchase some and will give it a try on one window this weekend. </font id=size3>
I too have leaky windows, port side only, it is a 1982 25C SK std. I was about to order the gray channel from CD but after reading the posts have second thoughts. As you will see on the CD site the gray channel is U shaped and the glass fits into it. IT does NOT seal, they tell you on the phone you must add caulk to the inside of the U and to both outsides of the U. The inside trim vinyl piece, notice I did not say gasket, is strictly cosmetic to fill the void in the aliminium frame.
I am confused though about the post that used the butyl to hold glass in. As I understand it the glass is butyled to the inside face of the aluminum frame but what holds the frame into the rough opening of the window hole in the fiber glass. We need a good cross section drawing here.
I don't remember the name of the product, (permaseal comes to mind) but the former forum had a recomendation to use a flowable silicone found at any auto parts store. I poured the $4.00 bottle of goop around the window frames and all leaks stopped for over two years. It is an easy, quick and (so far) permanent fix.
I also had the same problem with the CDirect vinyl spline leaking after installation. In my opinion the material should be thicker and should seal without having to caulk between it, glass and frame. I spent a lot of time trying to find a heavier gauge spline but wasn't able to locate anything. I solved it by using a liquid silicone sealant for auto windshields on both sides of the spline, despite the valid arguments I had heard against silicone.
Between frame and cabin, I prefer putty tape (sold at RV dealers), used in campers to bed windows, over Life caulk. It's easy to put on or take off and seals well. Just make sure it is room temp. before unrolling.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I am confused though about the post that used the butyl to hold glass in. As I understand it the glass is butyled to the inside face of the aluminum frame but what holds the frame into the rough opening of the window hole in the fiber glass. We need a good cross section drawing here. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
You're right, a drawing would be very helpful here.
The butyl does <font color=blue><i>not</i></font id=blue> hold the glass in - it only <font color=blue><i>seals</i></font id=blue> the space between the glass (outside surface) and the frame - keeping the weather out. The glass is held in place by epoxy. The epoxy is applied between the ribbed surface of the aluminum frame and the inside surface of the glass.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.