Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I was sailing Saturday in a moderate breeze, headed upwind. Another sailboat, under motor only, no sails up, tried to get my attention. He couldn't catch me, (which I enjoyed immensly) but when I cam about he came along side and asked if I would be interested in a roller/furler. Apparently, he lost his mast last season, and the insurance company replaced everything from the deck up, so he has an "extra" roller furler.
It is apparently a CDI "flexible furler". The price is right, and I am wondering what the group could tell me about them.
The CDI is an excellent furler. I have had one on my boat for 5 years with no problems I recently added the ball bearing option ( available from any CDI dealer) which I would recommend over the standard delrin bearing- not required but makes reefing in heavy weather much easier. Make sure that it is a model FF4 or 6 and that the sail track extrusion is long enough for your forestay. You will have to modify your headsail ( bolt rope ) or buy a new one made for furling. You will sacrafice a little performance for a great deal of convenience.
My 1980 came with a CDI furler and I don't like it. With this furler you don't use a regualr jib halyard, which means you can't adjust luff tension on your genoa. The halyard is built into the grooved luff slide that covers the headstay. Aslo, if you have more than one headsail it's a pain to change jibs.
I don't race my boat, but even if you don't race, the inability to adjust the draft position on your headsails may be frustrating. Beating to windward requires firmer luff tension than off wind and down wind.
Thanks to a posting on this website, I did get around the luff tensioning problem, albeit inconveniently. I have a triple block with cam cleat on the furler and a triple block on the tack with 3/16" line connecting. I have to go forward to make adjustments, but it was obviously a cheaper solution than buying a Schaefer or Harken unit.
For me the CDI price would have to be extremely low to get my attention.
I assume you don't have an adjustable back stay. If Swach-etc. does, we should point out that some tensioning of the jib luff can be done using it. Of course you also flatten the main at the same time, but in all likelyhood you'll want to flatten both.
Well, I bought the furler and have laying my driveway. We are sailing a lot right now andI was hoping to order the new 135 Genoa before I install the furler.
The furler came off a Catalina 250, and actually, the forestay is still in the center of it. I have tried running a tape measure up the jib halyard to check the length etc. but here is the problem:
The dimensions of the forestay in the 25 owner's manual is listed as 29'-10". In the 250 owner's manual, it is listed as 29'-7 3/4". The one in my drive way seems to measure a little longer than both, yet not long enough to be for a tall rig for either.
Further, Cruising Direct Sails (North sails through West Marine) has a 135 IN STOCK, and can ship it Monday. The luff dimension they gave me as a standard, furling 135 for the Catalina 25, is 28'6". Even though the stay in side the furler in my driveway measures longer than the 29'10" (which again is longer than the dimension given for the 250 as well) it seems as though 28'-6" luff is too long.
So.... the questions are: Am I misunderstanding how to measure the rigging dimension? Is there something I don't understand about the sail luff dimension? The North sailsperson assured me that they sell a lot of pre-made roller furling 135's for Catalina 25's at this dimension without a problem I am kidding myself to think I could order a new sail, have it arrive next week, drop the mast, attach the furler, raise the new sail and go? I am afraid it is probably too good to be true. (therefor probably isn't?) Or, (last choice) should I drop the mast, install the furler, measure it again, and sail without a jib until the new sail arrives?
Since I'm not sure exactly what you've got, I may not be able to accurately answer your ?'s. But the furler needs to fit your boat and the sail luff needs to fit your furler. Did the seller provide a manual for the furler? You may need to replace the forestay with the one from your boat. Also, if the extrusion is too long, it may need to be shortened. You may want to contact CDI (www.sailcdi.com) for info. I think you'll be fine, but you may need to get some more info prior to installing the furler or purchasing a sail. Perhaps someone who has installed a CDI flexible furler will respond with better help for you.
I took the furler apart, and matched parts with those in the instruction manual I downloaded from CDI. I think I get it now.
Apparently the pin and shackle for the luff of the sail is missing. Once I repalce that assembly, I am sure the 28'6" luff dimension will work. Since the piece was missing, I guess I misunderstood where the foot of the sail was tied off. Apparently, the furler I have is a generation behind the one pictured in the manual.
Now all I have to do is gather parts for tall the other projects I should while I drop the mast. (New mast light, windex, etc.)
Good luck Scott. I think you'll enjoy the furler, especially with a 135 genoa. I recently bought a new one (Atlantic Sail Traders) and am really pleased with the sail. It drives the boat very well without overpowering it. Gary SR/SK #479
I have a pet peeve with my CDI "mark 1" furler. The furling line seems to ALWAYS come off the drum and wrap around the forestay-requiring a crewmember to go forward and re-wrap the thing into the drum in order to furl the genny. Am I supposed to keep a moderate tension on the furling line as it pays into the drum when unfurling the Genoa? Ah well.
It's always a good idea to keep moderate tension on the furling line. You may also want to adjust the angle at which the furling line enters the drum so that it does so at a perpendicular angle to the drum.
Capn Rick, Do you have the earlier furler with the aluminum extrusions?
I sailed all last season (first season with this boat) with the problem you described and wondered what was so great about roller furlers if I had to go to the bow every time I wanted to roll the sail up. So I installed a cam cleat on the port cabin side, ran the furling line through it and kept tension on it as I unfurled the sail, then cleated it with just enough tension to keep it from falling off the drum.
Then two weeks ago I was looking at the diagrams on the CDI website and realized I was missing the bottom bearing and the wire bails that keep the furling line from dropping off the drum. Doh! Bought 'em, installed 'em and now my sailing has been much more relaxing.
bottom bearing and wire bails?? I went to the CDI site a coupla months ago to check for missing/misaligned parts-guess I'll try that again. I have a small bail coming off the bow rail on the port side which (I thought) was to "guide" the reef line straight into the drum. I'll follow up on the advice soon as I get back to the boat. Thanks!
This will be my third season with my "new" C-25. It has been one of the best "dreams come true" I have ever had. The boat came with auto pilot and CDI roller furling (uninstalled). Year 1, got a feel for the boat, concentrated on safety. Year 2, worked on the O.B., rig tunning, anchoring, camping, bottom paint and a little racing. Year 3, navigation/GPS, finally installed auto pilot (way cool), heave-to techniques, keeping a log book, trailer repairs, docking in crosswinds, and maybe I'll install the CDI at the end of the season. If anyone can, and feels so inclined, could you post pictures as well as explanations of your set-up? Thank you. Todd Frye. P.S. How much speed is sacraficed when changing over to roller furling? 1/2, 1 knot?<b></b><u></u>
Got all the backordered parts and installed the furler last weekend. Did all my other "aloft" projects while the mast was down; windex, topping lift, mast light... When I reset the mast, I corrected the rake it had before, bringing it in column.
A cold front moved through here, and we had nice 15 mph wind for the test sail.
Everything worked great, and the 135 is a big improvement over the old 110. Under full sail, we were heeled to the rails, leaving a wake like a power boat, hitting hull speed. with the mast set better in column, the backstay adjuster was much more effective, and flattened out the new 135 beautifully. I also added a boom vang in the process, dramatically improving the shape of the main sail.
The boat feels great now. It was the first time since buying the boat this spring, that with all the retrofitting complete, the conditions were right to really "put her through her paces". I was impressed with how soild, secure, and balanced she felt on every point of sale.
But I guess everyone in this forum already knows what great sailing boats we have.
Thanks to the forum for all the advice.
Scott Webb LeHannah #3134 standard rig, fixed keel
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.