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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

reef horn

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KenDavis
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/14/2007 : 12:42:31

Hello all,

I'm new to sailing, but have learned a lot from lurking on this forum while repairing my boat.

I'm sorting out some of the running rigging, and would love to see a picture of the boom/mast area.

Where to mount a reef horn?
and what kind of pin is your favorite to hold the sail to the boom?

Thanks for any advice, more questions sure to follow.
Ken

Pensacola, Fl

C25 87 SR/WK
ANABELLA
Pensacola Fl

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2007 : 13:45:50

Welcome aboard Ken!

When I first picked up my boat, I had a bit of a time too in trying to figure out how the PO rigged the boat. The illustrations in the C25 Parts Manual helped me out. This illustration is from the C25 parts catalog on this web site.

I hope this helps.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2007 : 16:29:05

A fundamental item oddly missing from that drawing is the downhall from the hole in the bottom of the gooseneck to the cleat they show in the slot (or kerf). It's purpose is both to tension the luff of the main, and to keep the boom from jumping out of the mast gate, flailing around, ripping the sail, and breaking somebody's skull. It's a good thing to have.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2007 : 07:51:15

I have tried a reef horn on a 25 and found that it does not work well. The gooseneck is not strong enough to handle the rotation caused by the halyard tension pulling on the reef horn. I was very happy with a line made off to a pad eye on the side of the mast, (10-12 inches below the gooseneck). The line then simply goes up, through the reef cringle and down the other side, this centers the cringle and allows the mast tension to pull straight up.
You should look around the pages in my sig. I have lots of hardware shots on the different pages.

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 02/17/2007 08:26:29

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2007 : 10:21:35

Another issue with the drawing is the tied off, non-adjustable outhaul.

Edited by - on

KenDavis
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2007 : 12:35:56

thanks for the drawing and the advice.
it looks like a jiffy reefing set up doesn't use a horn. and I can imagine it would twist the boom like was mentioned.

I have a cheek block and some guides on the boom but no cleat on the mast. Now I can see where it goes.

New question: 5/16" sta-set ok for main sheet? how long?

3/8" for Jib Halyard?

We've sailed the last two weekends and even though it's 40 degrees,
it's a blast.

this weekend is supposed to be colder, and I have some things to fix, so it may be boat slip time only.

hold out everyone - winter can't last much longer.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2007 : 10:14:42

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by KenDavis
 New question: 5/16" sta-set ok for main sheet? how long?

3/8" for Jib Halyard?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Ken,

I would think that 5/16" Sta-Set would be fine for the mainsheet. The C25 parts manual lists the mainsheet as 3/8" x 75'.

As a personal preference, I use a larger line for my mainsheet (I think my current line is 1/2") because the larger line has a better feel in the hand and is easier to grip.

As for your jib halyard, 3/8" will work if the masthead sheaves will accommodate 3/8" line. I use a 5/16" line for both my halyards, but some people here use high tech 1/4" line to reduce weight aloft and windage.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/17/2007 : 09:06:58

5/16ths is a good size for halyards--coincidentally what Cat Direct sold me. But it's too big for the original sheaves that are sized for wire, if that's what you have. I've heard that some have used 1/4" in those sheaves... I wouldn't buy Sta Set for halyards--particularly because in my case the jib halyard was used to keep the roller furler under tension for the entire season. I didn't want any stretch, and CD's halyards did the job. The key is a core that's not dacron--rather something like Vectran.

BTW, for the reefing line, smaller is better for friction going through the grommets. However, if you're leading the line back to a clutch, then you have to consider what the clutch can handle.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2007 : 00:02:32

I too am using 5/16" line for my halyards and they worked well today, which, by the way, was our first outing since buying the boat last fall, a 1982 swing keel tall rig. I had to replace virtually all of the control lines, halyards, sheets, traveler adjuster, etc. We're using 3/8" line for the main sheet. I was afraid it would be too small, but it performed well.
There's another thing missing from the drawing above - topping lift and an adjustable main outhaul. I've seen several versions in this forum, and I wanted to keep ours a bit simpler. Our system calls for "round style" shackles at each of the 2 holes at the end of the boom and on the clew of the main. The far one on the boom end is for the boom topping lift and the boom-holding pigtail hanging from the backstay. The second shackle on the boom end holds a small swiveling double block. The shackle on the clew of the main holds a small swiveling single block, both Harken. Using 1/4" line about 12 feet long, tie one end to the clew of the main with a bowline, keeping it under the single block. Run the line to the starboard side of the double block, up to the single block, back to the double block. Then the line comes forward to a closed feed clam cleat located on the port side of the boom just aft of the main hatch. This gives plenty of purchase and a good location for the crew to adjust it when needed, and keeps it away from the reefing lines on the starbard side of the boom. Note, you could also use 5/15" line. Sorry I don't have pictures yet.
David

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2007 : 09:58:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dmpilc
 I too am using 5/16" line for my halyards and they worked well today, which, by the way, was our first outing since buying the boat last fall, a 1982 swing keel tall rig.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Well, David, how was the maiden voyage?

Edited by - on

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