Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I tried last spring on my '93 Yamaha 9.9. After several hours of beating, prying, cursing, oiling, drinking beer, etc. gave up and called the service dude at the local Yamaha dealer. I described my efforts so far. He said, "Welcome to my world!"
Since I was doing it as maintenance, not because the old one failed, I decided "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
It's like my plan to live forever...so far, so good.
Yes, I've replaced the water pump in my mid-90's Yamaha 9.9HP 4-stroke extra long shaft outboard, and I'm in the process of doing so again. It was, and is, a royal pain.<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle> In particular, those four 8mm studs (and four 6mm alignment dowels) that hold the foot onto the leg are so stuck I just can't believe it.<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>
What worked last time, and what I'm trying again this time, is heat, soak, and beat. Be really, really patient. If the studs are stuck in the casting, don't just wail on the motor foot with bigger and bigger hammers until something gives. When applying heat, go slow so as not to burn off the paint or permanently damage the metal parts.
Read the shop manual. (You do have one, right?)
Releasing the shift linkage is easy if you shift into (I think it's) reverse first and temporarily dissassemble the lower leg-to-pivot mount. Be sure to put the mount back together before you start pounding on things.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
This time around, I've been heating and beating for maybe 20 minutes an evening for two or three days so far. At the end of each session, I soak the offending parts with penetrating oil and let them sit. As for the finer points of pounding, I've been using soft wooden blocks to reduce the risk of cracking a casting. I've also been trying to drive a sharpened putty knife into the split line.
If at any point you start to lose patience with the slow and gentle approach, take a break and price those castings. I predict you'll be amazed.<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle> Think buying a junk parts motor might be the answer? I did. They're all stuck together just as bad or worse than yours.<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>
Good luck, and let us know what eventually works for you!
-- Leon Sisson
P.S. Has anyone else had any better luck doing this on a saltwater engine?
Thanks for the warning. I just delivered my motor to the dealer.
Nothing worse (well almost) than going through all the launch rituals, starting the motor and having no cooling water exiting! Guess I need to purchase the thingamajig that lets you test the motor before launching - duh! Did you ever remove a four-stroke with the boat in he water? Ouch!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.