Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
As I work my way through supplying my boat I find that I need to replace the two batteries. The PO had one wet cell and one dual pupose gel. What types of battereies do most have greatest success with? I will have an OB that allegedly has a generator for recharge and do not expect heavy battery usage during the typical @6 month season. Also, is their any simple way to determine the condition of the wiring -- hull and mast -- so I don't fry myself and the boat? As always, look forward to any and all comments.
Peter Bigelow PO - C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
I use only one standard deep cycle. The only problem I've had is a stereo that has presets (which draws amps) and will actually run the battery down in a month if I don't keep the solar charger plugged in. As far as the wiring goes, As long as the the bulbs light, you're good. If they don't and you find the wire strands are black, then cut the wire back a few inches. If the strands are still black, cut back again and if you find them STILL black it may be time to rewire. Of course the deck plugs are also a regular culprit for failing mast lights. Still, a friend who is an electrician is the simplest way to check the electrical system
You didn't mention if your boat had a battery charger also. If it does, check the owners manuel for it. You may find that mixing battery types is not recommended by the charger manufacturer. See the recent threads on chargers, and past threads on the battery types.
As for the outboard, does it have a true generator/alternator or a magneto/rectifier/voltage regulator system to feed juice back to the batteries? (probably the latter). The outboard service shop could probably tell you. The concern is that switching between batteries at the main switch while the engine is running and suppling feedback can actually damage the diodes in the alternator circuit of the engine, so that would always be a concern.
You won't fry yourself with 12 volts, but if you short pos and neg wire together they give off nice sparks. When you are wadded up in a ball in the lazerette, with your nose right in the back of the panel, there is no way to jump back! Usually, if you short something out, you cook the battery, as it will heat up with a dead short. As Dave states, check connections and wire for corrosion. This is the usual culprit for things not working. I ended up replaceing my Catalina switch panel with two new 6 switch panels from WM, rather than try to clean up and repair the old one, and add circuits for auto pilots, water pumps, LED lights, etc., as well as cleaning countless light sockets, bulbs, terminals and splices.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.