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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Bottom paint advice

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Capt. Kurt
Navigator

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185 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/12/2007 : 10:48:40

I am planning on putting my boat in salt water for the first time in Long Beach, Ca. for the summer. I have read about the different types of bottom paint; vinyl, copper-based, anti-slime additives - but I'm not sure what is best.. thus my need for advice!

1. How many, big and where to install the zincs. Does the zinc base need metal/metal on the keel, or are screw holes enough? Do I install these before bottom paint?

2. Are all bottom paints equal? Anyone recommend a brand or type for saltwater use? What kind of prep on a relatively pristine waxed hull?

3. What is a fair price to pay someone to paint a new hull for the first time?

Thanks!
Kurt
#818 C250WK 'Tortuga'

Edited by - on

johnsonp
Admiral

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USA
606 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 11:33:20

Replce the zincs on your existing outboard engine... some should already be there.
All the paints for sea water are good, ablative non ablative Iv'e
had both.
Just had my new boat bottom painted with VC17.
It depends where you live as to how much it will cost...$120 a gallon
+ labor...they need to lift the boat paint it, relift the boat and paint again etc.

Call around for prices but now is the busy time get it in quick.
paulj

Edited by - on

Jarrett Anderson
1st Mate

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61 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2007 : 13:01:34

I just finished repainting the bottom paint on Victory2, this a very messy job.

If your boats bottom is has never been painted you will want to start by sealing the fiberglass with a epoxy coating, this keeps the fiberglass from blistering. Then move on to an Ablative anti fouling paint. If you are going to do it yourself the epoxy coat will cost less than $100 and the ablative paint will cost $120-$250 a gallon. I have used Interlux, but tried West Marines CPP Plus this time. If you take your boat out often the anti slime agents are not necessary. The ablative paint sloughs off with movement exposing new paint that stops growth. If your boat sits slime will develop and organisms will start to grow on the slime. Per several sources the anti slime agent makes the the ablative paint less affective. So do your bottom paint a favor and take it sailing, you will not need the anti-slime agent. Keep in mind many paints become ineffective when out of water i.e. boat on the trailer.

If your going to do it your self get a white paint suit and respirator West Marine Pg. 299-301 2007. If not expect to pay $1800 to $2000 for first job. Maintains will cost $800 to $1000 yearly in salt water or two years in fresh water.

This is one of the worst chores on the boat.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2007 : 14:16:55

I recall the 250's wing keel is encapsulated lead--if so, no zincs are needed there. As Paul said, replace the ones on the outboard, although even those aren't that critical if you keep the motor completely clear of the water most of the time.

Epoxy barrier coat is a good idea, but not critical with the newer gelcoats. It's a bit of a chore to apply. Bottom painting is pretty easy--use a roller on a 3' broom handle and the whole job will take you a couple of hours. Most people mask the waterline--I only did that once, and cut it in with a brush from then on--a bit tedious.

I certainly vote for ablative paints unless you are a hard-core racer. West CPP Plus is a Petit ablative. Micron CSC and Micron Extra (with an anti-slime agent) are probably the most popular, but a little more $$. Be sure to religiously follow the directions for removing any wax including mold-release wax (traces can remain for years) and other preparation steps--either a sandless primer or light sanding of the gelcoat. If the primer, be sure to paint over it at the prescribed time--not much later.

If the boat is on a trailer, there are a couple of techniques that were discussed on an earlier thread (General forum?) for lifting it off the bunks to paint those spots. If you have it on stands, the spots can be painted as part of the launch process--I just leave the can and a cheap brush for the yard crew to swipe her on her way in.

It's not all that bad of a job...

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 04/14/2007 14:24:12

Jarrett Anderson
1st Mate

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61 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2007 : 23:16:17

Dave makes some great points. With the micron csc you do not have to sand; no sanding makes this a much cleaner job. I went with the CPP because it can go from fresh water to salt and like the CSC does not lose effectiveness out of water. If I were to do over I would spent more money and not have to deal with the sanding.

Edited by - on

rwbragdon
Deckhand

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USA
20 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2007 : 05:36:24

All great advice. Dave, you've inspired me to go do it myself but it's been a few years (like 25) since I painted a bottom. Menehune's bottom was painted when she was first splashed a few years back and she now needs a new coat. Any advice on re-applying? Do I need to sand all the remaining paint off before painting, and if so do I need to prime it before applying a good bottom paint?

Thanks

Edited by - on

frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2007 : 13:30:45

The C250 comes with a five year blister warranty provided you do not sand it. Since your boat bottom is basically new out of the factory and has only wax applied you will need to remove all the wax coating with acetone or some other wax remover that will not leave a residue. Then apply a non sandable primer. Would recommend a black or red color. This will let you to know when it is time to redo your bottom again when the color changes. Then apply two coats minimum to all surfaces. Apply a third coat to the front edge of the rudder, keel and bow. These areas take the most wear needless to say. When it comes time to do it again you just lightly sand the bottom to the color change wash off and paint. Be sure an follow the directions on the paint cans for drying time. This is critical.
I am off to redo PennyII's bottom in a week to get her ready for the 54th Annual Mug Race.

Edited by - frog0911 on 04/15/2007 13:31:32

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.