Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So I started to strip the bottom Saturday morning with the dumond safety strip purchased from nautiduck. The albative came of with a scraper & paper only to reveal the fact that there is a tar barrier coat. Reapplied another coat of safety strip, let it sit until Sunday morning, powerwashed & scraped with mixed results. For arguments sake lets pretend that I used the safety strip properly. Does anyone know a good and proper way to remove tar barrier coat short of gas and a match?
Allota sand paper and some prayers. That stuff has it's uses, but I've alway found that the every 5 year bottom approach was alway a pain in that 5th year.
Have you checked interlux's website? I seem to recall they had some sort of toxin that would remove it. If they do, good thing you are in Holland MI and not Cali.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />Why do you want to remove the epoxy barrier coat? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Basically the barrier coat is not uniform, and was put on in a slip shot manner. Where the screw pads were located there is no barrier coat at all and is starting to blister. I think I caught it in time before it became a serious issue. Also, I am moving away from the albative paint and moving to Baltoplate. I only want to do a complete bottom job once over the next few years, and want to make sure that the baltoplate has a hard barrier coat to adhear to. I do not think the tar/epoxy barrier coat would suffice when switching to Baltoplate. Whatever I do I will have to wait until it warms up again.
Your situation sounds very similar to what I encountered five or so years ago. The former owner(s) had made a mess of the bottom paint over the VCTar. I removed all the various bottom paints and after determining that removing the epoxy barrier coat was going to be a major PITA, I opted to just sand, smooth, and prep the existing barrier coat for a few more new layers of fresh VCTar over which I applied VC17.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by saribella</i> <br />I do not think the tar/epoxy barrier coat would suffice when switching to Baltoplate.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
You might want to check with Interlux to see if Baltoplate is compatible with VCTar.
I am going to go with Interprotect 2000E and get away from the VC tar altogether as the IP 2000 is harder and is compatable with Baltoplate. I forgot to state this, sorry.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by saribella</i> <br />So I started to strip the bottom Saturday morning with the dumond safety strip purchased from nautiduck. The albative came of with a scraper & paper only to reveal the fact that there is a tar barrier coat. Reapplied another coat of safety strip, let it sit until Sunday morning, powerwashed & scraped with mixed results.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The data sheets for Safety Strip states "Will not work for some two part epoxy coatings". From your description, VCTar is one of them.
I think your in for a long process and a lot of sanding. Sand off VC tar, lay on 2000, wet sand orange peel off the 2000 apply balto plate, long board sand, then wet sand to about 600 grit or higher.
If you can spray the baltoplate I would go for it - it will save you days of sanding.
I have removed old VC Tar 2-3 times by using paint stripper that is designed for use for Corvettes. You can only obtain it at a store that specializes in auto paints and supplies. Don't use the stuff that is sold in discount auto parts stores etc. It's not terribly expensive.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Steve Milby</i> <br />I have removed old VC Tar 2-3 times by using paint stripper that is designed for use for Corvettes. You can only obtain it at a store that specializes in auto paints and supplies. Don't use the stuff that is sold in discount auto parts stores etc. It's not terribly expensive. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I will look into that Steve thanks, but if you have product in brand name that would be great. Yeah I am renting an airless sprayer for all painting applications to make it more uniform. When sanding all I do is plug in to my mp3 player and I am good to go for a whole day until my arms fall off. I just picked up 3 committed crew members so this is going to be a group effort. Time to get strong boys.
I didn't make a note of the brand, because I figured I knew where to buy it whenever I needed it. I need 3-4 gallons now myself, but the place in Dayton where I bought it last is out of business. I'm in Maryland now, and will be looking for it in Annapolis this week. If I find it, I'll let you know.
I bought 2 gals. of Klean-Strip Fiberglass Paint Remover today. It costs about $30.00 per gal. instead of over $80.00 per gal. for the Interlux paint stripper. It should remove VC Tar. It's hard to find locally. I had to order it through an automobile paint store. The company's website is:
Now you tell me......hahaha Thanks Steve for taking time to respond to this, but I took the hard road of sanding and am 3/4's done. The product you stated should have a link put to it on this website. I have been getting strong by sanding.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.