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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Fuel Filter Swap-Out

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Daren
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/01/2007 : 07:51:22

I am going to replace the fuel filter on my M-15 (15hp) universal diesel in the next few days. Can anyone provide information on proceedures for sucessful replacement. I only have a primary on the engine (need to install another primary and make the current filter the secondary -another project).

Any advice is appriciated in advnce.

S/V Prima Donna
1986, 15 HP Universal Inboard Diesel, Fixed keel, Hull # 5362

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/01/2007 : 08:43:37

Is it a simple screw on (canister) type ?

Edited by - on

Daren
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 05/01/2007 : 10:27:27

Yes, screw on fuel filter. Don't know size without being at the boat.

Edited by - on

Daren
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2007 : 15:18:32

A simple screw on filter, and that does seem quite simple, but I was told by power boater friend of mine that you needed to fill the new filter with diesel before putting in on the engine. Is this true? The reason, he said, was to prevent air from getting in the system. Air in the system will shut the engine down or something like that.

Hence, my question about how to install the new fuel filter.

Thanks in advance.

Edited by - on

Don B
Captain

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USA
317 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2007 : 17:24:05

Seems there would be some type of manual bleed valve involved to remove inline air...older mercedes diesels had the manual bleed valve but I'm not familiar with other diesel types.

Edited by - on

Daren
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2007 : 13:25:53

I was told the following by a fellow boater:

1. shut off fuel
2. wrap old filter in fuel/oil absorbing material
3. break seal on old fuel filter
4. put a bucket underneath work area
5. remove filter
6. fill new filter with diesel
7. attach new filter on engine
8. bleed line
9. open fuel valve
10. run electronic fuel pump
11. cross my fingers that the engine turns over

This is all I know at this time. If anyone has an alternative approach, I'd love to hear from you since I am a total newbie when it comes to diesel engines. BTW, I am talking about an inboard 15 hp Universal engine (M-18).

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2007 : 13:53:48

From the [url="http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/universal-owners-manual-bleeding-fuel-system.html"]MarineDieselDirect[/url]...

<b>BLEEDING THE FUEL SYSTEM:</b>
It will be necessary to bleed the fuel system to achieve a steady air free flow of fuel if any of the following have occured: Models M-12, M2-12, M3-20, and M4-30 have self bleeding fuel systems.
1. Running out of fuel.

2. If fuel shut off valve is left closed and engine runs out of fuel.

3. Replacing fuel filter.

4. Fuel injector nozzle or injector pump repair.

5. After repairing or replacing any fuel line.

6. Before putting engine back into service in the spring, if fuel system has been drained.

7. Replacement of electric or mechanical fuel pump.

8. Any time air is permitted to enter the fuel system.

<b>BLEEDING PROCEDURE:</b>
Be sure to have some means available to catch or absorb any fuel escaping during the bleeding process so that it will not accumulate in the engine compartment or bilge.
1. Be sure there is a sufficient supply of fuel in the fuel tank.

2. Open the fuel shut-off valve at the tank.

3. Start the electric fuel pump by turning the ignition key to the "ON" position on models 18,
20, 25, 30, 50, all models after 1986.

4. Model 15 has a mechanical fuel pump. Therefore with decompression on, turn engine over with starter. Crank at 10 second intervals while doing steps #5 and 7.

5. Slowly loosen the air bleed plug on the fuel filter, letting air escape until an air free flow of fuel is evident. (1986 models see item 7).

6. At this time, tighten the air bleed plug on the filter.

7. Slowly loosen the air bleed plug on the injector pump, letting air escape until an air free flow of fuel is evident. Units with a self bleed return valve, open for a short period then start engine, as soon as engine runs smooth close valve. Model-12 has continuous fuel bleeding.

8. At this time, tighten the air bleed plug or knurled knob on the injector pump.

9. The fuel system should now be properly bled and ready for operation.

Refer to starting instructions before attempting to start the engine after bleeding the fuel system.

CAUTION: Excessive cranking with sea cock valve open can cause water accumulation in the muffler and possibly back up into the engine. Drain muffler as needed.

Edited by - on

Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2007 : 16:11:12

If you DON'T have an electric fuel pump, then it is essential that you fill the new filter with fuel (or injector cleaner) to minimize the amount of air that could enter the system. The steps noted above from mdd are good and work. It sounds like you're talking about the "secondary" filter on your engine, and that your don't have a primary (yet).

I would recommend that you remove the old one, fill the new one, put it back on and follow the M15 steps.

IF, I say IF, you have the knurled knob on the fuel line to the injectors, then open that first and try that instead of opening the nut on the secondary (on engine) filter (if you have one). It appears that your M15 secondary (on engine) filter is much more accessible (at the top) than ours are.

We have an M25 and it took me some time to get up enough courage to do this. Once I did I said, hey, that was easy.

Another link, but for the M25 series is: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2884.0 Remember, this is for the M25 with a separate electric driven fuel pump. Yours may be different.

Good luck, it's do-able.

Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 on 05/10/2007 16:17:21

Kip C
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2007 : 05:21:22

Daren,
When removing the old filter, slip a large ziplock bag over the filter. It catches nearly everthing that spills. Do the same when changing the oil filter.

Edited by - on

Daren
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2007 : 07:20:30

Just wanted to report back on my fuel filter swap out. First of all, thanks so much for all the input I received from all of you! Kip, your suggestion of a plastic bag was so simple, yet brilliant!
Anyway, here is what I did.

1. Shut off the fuel valve leading out from under the V-Berth. This was interesting in itself and allowed me to spend some quality time with the Prima Donna's fuel system. I knew where the fuel tank was, but not necessarily where the shut off valve was; nor did I know exactly where the fuel line ran. Well, now I do. I also discovered something very interesting under the V-Berth....a mounting cap for a primary fuel/water separator filter! All I need now is a filter to mount and a few new lines and hose clamps. Next project.

2. After I shut off the fuel flow, I went back to the engine compartment and spread an absorbable pad and wrapped the bag (thanks Kip) around the canister fuel filter. Also at this time, I tested out the filter wrench. All systems go!

3. Next, it was time to hop to it! Now that everything was ready to go, I put the wrench around the legacy filter and unscrewed it. Minimal fuel came out and what did come out ended up in the bag.

4. Old filter removed.

5. New filter installed. I put a few ounces of diesel in the new filter and lubricated the O ring and then just screwed it on.

6. Next, it was time to bleed the system. This one had me really nervous since the last time I bled anything mechanical was on a '66 VW bug (brakes). I went forward and opened the fuel back lines back up then back aft to the engine compartment and opened the bleeder valve on the filter housing. With the fuel on and the bleeder valve open, it was time to go to the engine controls in the cockpit. Pretty simple; I just turned the ignition on and the electric fuel pump started running (clicking was more like it). Quickly, I went back below and sure enough the bleeder valve looked like a wound where the blood squirts out along with the beat of a heart. Spurt…spurt….spurt. Quickly I moved the absorbent pad to catch the spray as I tightened the bleeder valve down.

7. Done – and feeling very relieved; feeling very accomplished; and more like a real sailor.

8. Just to be on the safe side, I ran the engine for about fifteen to twenty minutes. I kept thinking the engine would shut off, but it never did.

I gained a few rpms, and the filter was filthy, but the engine still needs some attention beyond my pay grade. Probably injectors. Next project, install the primary.

Again, thanks guys!

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2007 : 07:46:47

Good going, Daren! Ain't nothing like fixin your own stuff.

Edited by - on

Daren
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2007 : 09:52:16

"Yeah, Buddy!"

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