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Originally posted by Ed Schenck: <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Like polysulfide, polyurethane should not be used on acrylic, polycarbonate, PVC, or ABS-based fittings.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If Polysulfide and Polyurethane both attack plastics, what compound are we supposed to use for bedding replacement flush-mount polycarbonate windows? I have noticed on the new C-22's and C-250's, the windows don't use screws at all - they are held to the boat apparently by glue alone. Anyone know what the factory is using to bed the cabin windows on these new boats?
Larry Charlot Catalina 25WK/TR Mk. IV #5857 "Quiet Time" Folsom Lake, CA "You might get there faster in a powerboat, but in a sailboat, you're already there"
3M 4000UV Polyether Adhesive Sealant description: 'Highly recommended for ABS, Lexan and other plastics'. By the way, where are you getting your flush mount windows? I want to replace mine next winter.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ct95949</i> <br />3M 4000UV Polyether Adhesive Sealant description: 'Highly recommended for ABS, Lexan and other plastics'. By the way, where are you getting your flush mount windows? I want to replace mine next winter. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I haven't ordered them yet, but I will be getting them from a local supplier, TAP Plastics. Of the 4 main cabin windows, two are cracked from top to bottom, and the other two are starting to craze from long term UV exposure and will probably also crack sometime in the next couple of years, so it's definately time to replace them all. I actually tried to do this job last year, but discovered that the original factory adhesive is so strong that I could not get the old windows off. I didn't want to use brute force and risk breaking them, becasue TAP Plastics wants me to bring in the old ones in one piece so they can use them for drilling templates (there are about a dozen screw holes in each window). Cost was going to be about $40 per window (probably more now as the price of anything made of plastic has skyrocketed this last year). I am going to do the job probably in September or October; Folsom Lake Marina will likely be closed by then due to low water level so I won't be able to use the boat. As for the factory adhesive, my plan is to try and cut the windows loose with a sharpened putty knife, if it looks like the blade can cut the adhesive without damaging the gelcoat on the window seating surface.
When I have to remove aircraft windows, I use the putty knife method you describe. No need to sharpen it though. Get a good putty knife you can tap on with a hammer and go around the whole window a few times before you try to pry it up. After you are able to get it to pry up, it will go really fast. I have also heard of using a guitar string to "saw" around the window but have never done that. I am doing mine soon as well.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.