Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
This is the one project I want to get done before summer. Some of you had some good posts on installing in a 250, anyone taken this on in thier 25? I'm thinking the inlet plug on the outside of the port-side cockpit coaming in the angled part in front of the winch. The panel can go directly below in the lazarette on the bulkhead behind the sink, with an outlet in that same bulkhead above the ice chest. Very easy wiring this way. A charger below the aft berth, next to the battery switch.
So- 1) Anyone done it similarly/different? 2) Any suggestions on how to come up with a good parts list (for not a lot of money:) There's a boat/parts swap this weekend I'd like to try and take advantage of.
Thanks in advance, Garner
1983 C25 FK/SR Finistere Garner Olympia WA ~/)~ ~~~
My 120VAC panel has five circuits. So, I've got the battery charger on one, the galley outlet on one, and three other outlets - all on their own circuits with breakers.
A word of caution. Don't cross connect the 120VAC with the boat's 12VDC circuits. The 120VAC needs to be completely seperate. Ground for alternating current is very different from ground for direct current. You certainly don't want to "power up" the 12 volt circuits.
I have seen these used on several boats and am going to add one to mine. One of these and a 10 gauge extension cord is probably enough to handle the needs of our boats. At my dock each slip has a ground fault outlet on a breaker so personally I think a lot of the redundancy in the boats is overkill. After all, how many people have true 30 amp hardware all the way through their shorepower system?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />I have seen these used on several boats and am going to add one to mine. One of these and a 10 gauge extension cord is probably enough to handle the needs of our boats. At my dock each slip has a ground fault outlet on a breaker so personally I think a lot of the redundancy in the boats is overkill. After all, how many people have true 30 amp hardware all the way through their shorepower system? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I do, just finished installing it. I chose a Marinco 25 foot 10 gauge cord and a 30 amp twist lock inlet because the dock power was 30 amp twist lock and no GFI outlet. The inlet you have pictured appears to be 15-20 amp which I don't think is big enough. If you're running a heater or AC, microwave oven and your wife turns on a blow dryer you may have a problem. You can make a 10 gauge extension cord with 15 amp ends but why? Garner- I installed my system just as you described using Marinco and Blue Sea parts and Ancor triplex wire. You need a main breaker and distribution panel, some models have both together which will save some wiring. Keep in mind the back of these panels are exposed and need to be covered. None of this is cheap but don't scrimp on electrical. Make a list from the West Marine catalog then go buy it at Defender.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by John Russell</i> <br />Source Frank? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Pretty much anyone who carries Marinco, they are about $15. I currently, (no pun intended) am a very high 120 volt user. I run an air conditioner with 3 large fans nearly all of the time at my dock, I run a shop vac, coffee pot, CPAP, refrigerator, laptop, and who knows what else. I use 2 25' 10 gauge extension cords that plug into a 30amp-20amp adapter, I never have any issues and the cords never get hot. When I install marine AC next winter I will have a dedicated 30 amp system for it but the rest of the "house" will continue to run on 20 amp components.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.