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 Battery switch and grounding		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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dreddick
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117 Posts
Initially Posted - 07/03/2007 :  00:00:02  Show Profile
I picked up the Perko battery switch that CD sells (1/2/Both/Off) as I would like the option to use either battery for starting the outboard and then be able to charge either one on those occasions when we have to motor.

My current setup is a starting battery connected only to the motor and a deep cell connected only to the rest of the system (plus two 5-watt solar panels). I understand that the positive from the motor would go to the common on the switch, one of the battery positives to #1 and the other battery positive to #2 on the switch. As far as the negative terminals - do I really need a bus bar or can I just attach the motor negative to one of the batteries and then connect the two battery negatives together? Thanks.
David
87 S2 35C "ADAMA"
80 Siren 17
PO - 89 TR/WK #5892


NW Ohio - Catawba Island
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atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts
Response Posted - 07/03/2007 :  01:36:46  Show Profile
I would consult a dc electrical book. One thing for sure. if you use the big switch to isolate batteries you can fry your charging circuit by moving the switch with the engine running. For my boat, I started with 2 new batteries, connected them in parallel so I have 1 200 AH battery bank. I use the big red switch to turn the boat off/on. My engine is connected directly to the batteries so it will always have a "load". This system has worked perfectly for 3 yrs now. I also have a pull rope that has only been needed once after leaving the lights on for a week or 2.

If you do something like I have, you need to start with 2 identical batteries (make, age, etc) to prevent a weaker battery causing the strong one to get boiled over!

IMHO, the separate starting battery is overkill for such a small engine.

Tom.
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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts
Response Posted - 07/03/2007 :  07:03:18  Show Profile
I agree with all that Tom says except the switch operation... You <i>can</i> indeed damage your alternator by turning the switch to (or through) the OFF position with the engine running, but <i>not</i> by going from 1 to ALL to 2. There is always a connection with the latter motions. And you don't need a "starting battery" to start an 8-10 hp outboard. (I need it for my 225.) To charge both with that switch, you want two identical batteries, so deep-cycle or all-purpose will be fine. But get a book like Don Casey's <i>Sailboat Electrics Simplified</i>.
Edited by - Dave Bristle on 07/03/2007 07:06:36
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Oscar
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USA
2030 Posts
Response Posted - 07/03/2007 :  19:21:17  Show Profile  Visit Oscar's Homepage
Second Dave. Have been switching batteries like that for decades, never fried anything.

You can put all the negatives together on one terminal, but a more elegant way is to mount a powerpost.... looks like this:
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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts
Response Posted - 07/03/2007 :  20:02:06  Show Profile
Whew! Right twice this year!
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Oscar
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USA
2030 Posts
Response Posted - 07/04/2007 :  08:17:11  Show Profile  Visit Oscar's Homepage
And still six moths to go.....
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.