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Single-handed tack and jibe techniques?

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monty0
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/31/2007 : 10:16:46

I'm wanting to work up to sailing our boat single-handed. Do people have advice on the steps and techniques ... such as when to release, ease, and trim sheets; tiller strategies (using knees, tiller tamer), how to adjust techniques for different wind conditions?

Or can anyone recommend a book that deals with these kinds of issues for a boat like a Catalina 25?

Monty

1977 Catalina 25 #66 SRSK "Prana"

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 11:14:53

How are you set up now? Halyards led aft? Roller furler? Cam cleats for jib sheets?.......

One technique I found helpful was cross-sheeting, where you turn the sheet on the leeward winch, wrap it on the windward winch, and control it from there. (I added cam cleats on the coamings, and hooked the sheet under the horn cleat before snapping it into the cam to hold it down.) Everything seems simpler when you're trimming and releasing the jib/genny from the windward side.

Also, with roller furling, I often sailed on the genny alone (as discussed here periodically) for simplicity--no wrestling with the main to get it up and down, even though I had its halyard and a dousing line led aft. A tiller-pilot was my next priority, but I ended up changing boats first. A bungee wrapped around the tiller and hooked to the stern cleats works pretty well--it allows you to push the tiller over to tack, straighten your course by turning the wraps, and push the wraps back on the tiller to slacken the system.

The other techniques you talk about are no different single-handed... Let the jib backwind a little before you release when tacking. Obviously, start out single-handing in relatively light conditions. And don't forget to do a periodic 360-degree scan... When you're worrying about everything on the boat and you have no extra eyes on board, it can be easy to forget to look for any traffic around you. (You don't want anyone yelling "Starboard!!")

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 12:16:26

As a singlehanded sailor myself, after a tack, I've mastered the art of trimming the genoa while my foot mans the tiller.

If you want to practice singlehanding before actually singlehanding, the next time you go out just tell the rest of the crew to sit back and enjoy the ride while you do everything else.

Around my marina, singlehanding sailboats is rather the norm. Of the 12 to 14 boats on my dock, I think maybe just a couple leave the dock with more than one person aboard.

Edited by - on

stampeder
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Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 13:00:29

I've only single-handed a half dozen times.
Cross sheeting, and taking it slow are the keys. Let the Jib get across on it's own.
I tried using a tiller extension (with lock box on combing) but found it more effective, while tacking, to stand with my thigh against the tiller. Standing in the middle of the cockpit, I could ensure the lazy sheet ran while starting to haul in the working sheet.
I was out on Sunday, it was quite gusty on our lake(15-20 knots) I thoroughly enjoyed breezing past two Macgregor 26Ms with reefed mainsails and crews of 2 and 3.

Jib down-haul worked real well. I've found that main sail does not require a downhaul, as I have halyards lead to cockpit.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 14:10:17

Good point about the jib downhaul if you don't have a roller. (I always called it a dousing line to distinguish it from the downhaul, which pulls the gooseneck down). You can rig one with one small block attached to the stem fitting, and optionally some others on a couple of stanchion bases. 1/4" line is all you need. Tie it to the top hank--not the head of the jib. You can even run it through another hank or two to keep things tidy. If the halyard is also led aft, you can then hoist and douse the jib from the cockpit. Before dousing, tighten one of the sheets to pull the jib clew as far back as possible to help keep the sail on deck.

I added a main dousing line because my main sometimes didn't want to drop the last 6' or so. I ran it through an organizer back to the cockpit. With that, there was no more scrambling onto the cabintop. Like Stampeder, I generally liked to stand while tacking and keep the tiller between my legs as I trimmed. But I had a standard rig--no need to duck.

Edited by - on

DaveR
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2015 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 14:12:57

Have your lines set up on the dock or boat at the correct length so it's a cleat and go sort of thing. I don't use down hauls but am not afraid to drop the anchor when dropping the sails. Of course a roller furling is great but very expensive. My tiller tamer really helps, gives you more time to trim the jib, main. I leave and approach the dock slowly. You can't do much damage at 1/2 a knot:) I have the jib and main halyard back to the cockpit. I keep a bungy at the bow pulpit to hold the jib down if I'm in a hurry. That way I can wait to stow it if I need to. Practice, practice, practice! And as was said before, at first practice with someone else aboard. Good luck! Oh, almost forgot about tangled halyards and jib sheets, it's a pain to have to run from the bow back to the cockpit to untangle the jib halyard/sheet so make sure you've got them right!

Edited by - DaveR on 07/31/2007 14:19:57

Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 15:04:09

...and if you use a dousing line/downhaul, make sure it's ready to run free when you hoist the sail. I just dropped my main dousing line down the companionway and shook it out so it was ready to go.

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monty0
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 19:43:50

Could someone show a picture or diagram of the cross-sheeting?

I have a 150 furling jib, a tiller tamer, only the main halyard goes back to the cabin, no cam cleats for jib sheets, just put in jiffy reefing but it's still activated at the mast. I moor in the marina.

I've been working with sailing just with the genoa and find that jibes are less thrilling that with the main.

Thanks for the tips. Any more?

Edited by - on

Gloss
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Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 20:52:11

this may sound dumb, but here goes:
I'm not sure what I do when I single hand, but the more I do it, the better and smoother I get. If I don't go sailing for a while, I get really rusty, really fast.
Lines led to the cockpit, and self tailing jibsheet winches do make a difference.
I try not to use my tiller pilot "Otto" as it makes it way too easy.

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ClamBeach
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Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 20:58:53

Don't hurry the inital stages of the tack... let the wind do much of the work bringing the headsail across. Once the headsail does start to come over on the lee side, don't loop on the winch immediately, instead sheet in by hand very quickly before it catches pressure... then toss 2 or 3 wraps on the winch as it starts to fill and tighten up by hand from there.

This is better than wrapping the sheet on the winch first and trying to pull it in while there is lots of slack. Putting the line on the winch too early will often result in the wraps falling off the winch or getting in an over-wrap. (highly undesirable outcomes). If you want to practice, sail with the jib alone and master this part of the process before adding the main.

Put a couple of 5' pieces of 1/2" plastic conduit over (at least) the forward lower shrouds as detailed in another thread on this site. They really help the headsail tack across without hanging up. Perhaps the best $10 you'll spend outside of the Catalina Owners Bible.

If you're single handing downwind and are uneasy about making a jibe in a breeze, sheet in the main a bit just before starting your turn. It can then come across to the new leeward side without making a big bang, clocking you on the head or otherwise needing attention while you can pay attention to jibing the headsail.. after the headsail is cleated, you can ease the main to proper trim... then put your final trim on the jib.

If you don't have a tiller tamer, a 3' +- piece of bungie cord between the stern cleats with a single wrap around the tiller helps... the tiller will tend to stay somewhat where you put it.

I usually don't cross sheet as I sail with a 110 jib when singlehanding as I usually have the sheet 'set' before the boat comes to heel on the new heading. Figure there's enough lines around the cockpit anyway. My venue calls for a lot of short-tacking, I think If I sailed in a different location I might be more inclined to try cross sheeting. With the 110 I'm strong enough to (usually) not need the winch handle to sheet. If I want to tighten the jib up, I'll head up to wind a bit and pull the sheet tight when the sail just starts to luff. (Well, when sailing upwind anyway)

Docking (this will vary a LOT)... I have a 25' bow line and lead it aft when sailing... pulled tight and cleated off to the stern cleat along the side of the boat. That way, when I'm ready to dock, I have both bow and stern 'in hand' and just step over the rail when the boat comes to the dock... have control of both ends of the boat. Slow is ALMOST always better... exception is in a stiff cross-current or crosswind.

After awhile, all this stuff starts to become automatic and you won't even need to think about it.

Do the following as one continuous motion... (unless you screw up!) heh.

Pull the mainsheet in a bit and put the tiller over
Uncleat the jib as the boat starts to turn through the wind
Bring the across the centerline by pulling the sheet hand over hand (smoothly)
Toss a couple wraps on the winch and cleat just as the jib fills
Correct the tiller and set the boat on it's new course
Ease the main as needed.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 21:50:05

Cross-sheeting... I don't have a picture and couldn't find one off hand, but here's a little more detail on cross-sheeting (as I did it):

You don't need any additional hardware--the leeward winch serves to turn the sheet to go across the cockpit to the windward winch. You need the leward winch to turn with the sheet, and winches only turn clockwise, so on a starboard tack you need one clockwise turn around the port winch, and then as many as you want on the starboard winch. On port tack, you can just run the sheet around the aft side of the starboard winch and across the cockpit. (If your car is aft of the winch for your 150, the reverse is true--a wrap on the starboard winch, a simple turn on port.) With a 150, being able to crank and cleat on the high side might be a lot more comfortable.

I like the suggestion that you try single-handing on genny alone until you're comfortable handling it, and then add your main to the mix. I also subscribe to sheeting in the main before a jibe--I always did that, almost all the way to minimize the slamming around.

By "moor in the marina" do you mean in a slip or on a mooring? For docking in my slip, I set up one spring line at the end of my finger dock so I could pick it up and drop it on the winch as I turned into the slip. That pulled the boat to the finger and stopped its forward motion. If a breeze or current was working against me, I'd leave the engine idling in gear to push against that springline, hop off, secure the other docklines--then kill the engine. For pulling up to any other dock, a short line with two loops serves the same function. Drop one loop over the winch, use the other to lasso a dock cleat, and glide (very slowly) past the cleat so the line pulls you against the dock. Then you can use the engine as described while you secure bow and stern lines.

Hope that helps...

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 07/31/2007 21:54:33

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
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Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 22:27:11

Regarding the jib "downhaul" or dousing line, if you still have the standard wire to rope halyard, you can tie the 1/4" line to the wire loop where the halyard shackle attaches, or to the shackle itself if it has a captive pin at the upper end. This also stores the jib halyard at the bow after sailing so it's right there for the next sail. After hanking on the head sail, bingo, there's the halyard shackle ready to attach to the sail.
David

Edited by - on

Jmurfy
Navigator

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USA
176 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 22:36:56

I pretty much only single hand and I sail on the great lakes. The techniques I've learned and/or taught myself varies on the conditions but I always cross sheet. It makes the most sense. It just makes getting into the cabin a little harder. Of course I use the auto tiller when I need to go below. I still consider myself a rookie compared to alot of people who post here. I've only been sailing 3 years. If the wind is really blowing I usually gybe (spelling?) as opposed to tacking w/ my 150% genoa roller furling.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2007 : 23:15:11

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dmpilc
 Regarding the jib "downhaul" or dousing line, if you still have the standard wire to rope halyard, you can tie the 1/4" line to the wire loop where the halyard shackle attaches, or to the shackle itself if it has a captive pin at the upper end...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I've found that attaching the dousing line there causes it to pull the head of the sail to the side so that the upper hank binds on the forestay and the sail doesn't want to come down (unless you pull back on the halyard to straighten it). Tying it to the top hank worked better for me (but that wasn't on a C-25). If you just tie a little loop, it can be sliped onto the hank as you hank on the sail.

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dlucier
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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
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Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 08:33:33

Monty,

Sailing singlehanded is really not that big a deal. I've been doing it for so long that I now find it more difficult when sailing with crew because I then have to work around them. Same thing goes when docking.

The hardest aspect of singlehanded sailing is doing it for the first time. After that, it gets easier every time you go out alone.

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DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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2015 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 09:16:25

Dave Bristle said;
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">One technique I found helpful was cross-sheeting, where you turn the sheet on the leeward winch, wrap it on the windward winch, and control it from there. (I added cam cleats on the coamings, and hooked the sheet under the horn cleat before snapping it into the cam to hold it down.) Everything seems simpler when you're trimming and releasing the jib/genny from the windward side.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I don't understand the cross-sheeting. Under what conditions would you use this? Is it so you have better leverage because the jib sheet is coming to you from the high/windward side of the boat? What about trying to move about with all that line in your way? Seems more complicated when I want to keep things as simple as possible.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 09:23:28

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DaveR
 I don't understand the cross-sheeting. Under what conditions would you use this? Is it so you have better leverage because the jib sheet is coming to you from the high/windward side of the boat? What about trying to move about with all that line in your way? Seems more complicated when I want to keep things as simple as possible.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
It's a matter of preference... It makes it easier to use a winch handle or ease sheets if you're sitting on the windward side. (In light to moderate conditions, I'd often sit to leeward.) When single-handing, a line across the cockpit might not be as much of an issue as when you have crew... It's just an option to be aware of (and maybe try). Some people like it--others probably don't.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 08/01/2007 09:26:04

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
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Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 09:31:04

I'm one of those who don't like cross sheeting. Like Dave, I usually sit on the leeward side of the cockpit anyway, so adjusting the genoa winch isn't really a problem for me.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
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Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 09:45:09

When you're singlehanding, you'll be the busiest when you tack the boat, so anything you can do to save time and motions while tacking will help. The best and least expensive way to do that is to get a tiller tamer, or similar self-steering device, because it is like having a third hand, to hold the tiller while you use your other two hands to perform other tasks.

On the C25, I always put two wraps on the winch before tacking, and pull it in until I have taken up all the slack. (I never had a jibsheet overwrap with two wraps on the winch, but had them often with three wraps.) When you tack the boat, you have to pull in about 40-50 feet of jibsheet, and by taking up the slack in advance, you'll have less to pull in when you are actually tacking.

When you start to steer the boat through a tack, the sail continues to drive the boat until you reach about 15 deg. from head-to-wind. That's when I release the working jibsheet and start hauling in the lazy sheet for the new tack. When the boat gets onto the new tack by about 25-30 deg., the jib starts to fill and drive the boat. At that point, the pressure on the sail becomes so great that you usually can no longer pull in the jib sheet by hand. You have to start using the winch. Using the winch is a very slow way of sheeting in a jib, so, the more you can get in by hand, the faster and better the tack will be. For that reason, I never backwind the jib when there is enough wind to carry the sail over to the other side, because, by backwinding the jib, you are wasting some of the very limited time that you have to sheet in the jib.

When most people sheet in a jib, they do it with the palms of their hands facing upwards. They pull the jibsheet in with one hand, and then they bring the other hand upwards and grasp the sheet from the bottom. That's not the fastest or surest way to do it. Try pulling the jibsheet toward you with your left hand, so that the line is taut between your hand and the winch. Then slap your right hand down on top of the sheet, grab it, and pull it toward you. Then reach out with your left hand, slap it down on top of the line and pull. You can alternate hands very fast and very sure-handedly in that way.

If you are adept at steering the boat with a knee, you can extend the amount of time you have to get the jib sheeted in by letting the boat coast head-to-wind for a second or more before you steer it of onto the new tack.

Before I start to steer through a tack, I always ease the mainsheet traveler to leeward and adjust the traveler cleats for the new tack. They're much easier to adjust before the tack than after the tack, and you don't lose much speed by luffing the mainsail slightly a few seconds before the tack. Also, it's just one more task you can get done in advance. By doing so, the mainsail is essentially self-tending through the tack.

When singlehanding, I always steer from the low side of the boat, because it's much easier to see around the jib from that position.

Edited by - on

millermg
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Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 12:29:09

As of late, I've been standing in the cockpit steering with the tiller between my legs through tacks (w/ no tamer). It's nice to be looking forward, and you don't really need a lot of rudder if you let the headsail backwind just a bit and help you through the turn. This works well cross or regular sheeting, which just depends on whether there's enough wind to want to sit on the windward side or leeward side of the boat. I agree w/ most of you, I like to sit on the leeward side if it's not too windy.

Garner

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DaveC25
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152 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 14:02:29

I usually always singlehand, and I have ways of doing things others may not agree with, but it works best for me. First off, I always drop anchor and put up the sails at my leisure. Then I wait till she swings to the right tack and then pull the anchor up, and that gets me going. I don't have an autopilot so it's just that more relaxing to do it at anchor. A few times I've put up the jib while under main with a tiller tamer, but I usually just put them both up while anchored.

When it's time to tack, I just turn her up, and when the jib starts luffing I let it go and then pull it in as much as I can (which is never enough) before the sail gets full. Once it's full, I hold the sheet by hand until she picks up speed, then I turn her nose towards the wind just enough to take the pressure off the jib and then pull it in tight, then I point off to where I need to go and then let it out until it's sheeted properly. It happens faster than it sounds, and it works well for me. If you want to be on a beam reach, you only have to turn up slightly closer than a beam reach to get the pressure off the jib enough to sheet it.

When I'm done, I get to a place near the anchorage and drop the anchor, then pull the sails down, start the motor, pull up the anchor and motor on in.

I've never had too much trouble.

-DaveC25

Edited by - DaveC25 on 08/01/2007 14:11:22

Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 14:35:19

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DaveC25
 ...First off, I always drop anchor and put up the sails at my leisure. Then I wait till she swings to the right tack and then pull the anchor up...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Dave--is your anchor rode led aft to the cockpit?

In 15 knots of breeze that sounds like it could be a rush!

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dlucier
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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
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Response Posted - 08/02/2007 : 08:25:58

Dave25,

You've mentioned before your anchoring technique for raising sails and I was wondering if you've ever raised your sails without anchoring?

In my sailing venue, dropping anchor to raise the sails is inviting disaster.

Edited by - dlucier on 08/02/2007 08:26:43

jerlim
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Response Posted - 08/02/2007 : 10:52:48

Although strictly speaking it's not a tack and jibe technique, but something else to keep in mind when singlehanding is safety. I invested in a self-inflating PFD (orders of the admiral) and I trail a 100' line w/ a float at the end from the stern, haven't invested in a handheld radio yet. I also let someone responsible onshore know my general course/direction and ETA.

Edited by - jerlim on 08/02/2007 11:59:28

Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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Response Posted - 08/02/2007 : 18:35:52

Winchers on non-self-tailing winches are a great help.

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PamC
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Response Posted - 08/03/2007 : 11:00:33

Hi Monty!
One of the things that helped me prepare for single-handing was to watch Michael on "Rum Floater" (Monty & I sail at the same lake). Watching him I realized that 99% of the time you don't need to hurry, and it's safest not to. Also think out everything ahead of time and prepare as much as possible ahead of time. I do lots of tasks out in the open water north of the mooring field where there's plenty of space and use the shadow of Doe Island when it's blowing pretty good. For singlehanding downwind I just raise the foresail and enjoy the relative stress-free sailing. Docking at the transient dock goes best with a long line that can be led from the bow to the cockpit. That way when you come along side the dock you can step out of the cockpit with the bow and stern lines in hand. I'll be watching for ya!

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