Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Okay, we had our first real sail tonight after changing some rigging. A few questions have come up. The first is the downhaul. I have done a three to one arrangement with a block with a becket. I used the existing cleat as a turning point and tie off. The block doesn't seem to work real well because it hits the stopper for the boom. I would like to see what other people have done for the downhaul. Pictures would be great.
To simplify things, I've turned my sliding gooseneck into essentially a fixed one by putting a stop above and below the gooseneck so it doesn't move up and down. I put the initial luff tension on with the main halyard, then use the cunngingham for fine tuning. With this setup, a downhaul is not required.
By downhaul, you mean a line to hold the boom down? I just use a 'fixed' line... no blocks, just a simple piece of halyard line with a hook on one end. The bitter end is secured to a cleat on the mast and the hook end to the boom. Rarely (if ever) will it need to be adjusted. Let the boom gooseneck rest on it's track stop, snug up the downhaul line to the cleat and you're done.
The cunningham often has a multi-parted purchase and it is typically led to a flattening reef point. A alternative to having a multiple purchase lash up for the cunningham is to lead the cunningham control line aft to a winch on the cabintop. Take your pick... since you already have a multi-purchase block rigged, might as well use it for that purpose.
Yes, I have a boomvang rigged. I will try the cunningham arrangement. I have a grommet located about six inches above the bottom of the sail, so this should work well. I have a few ideas on how to set it up. I will try the different setups and post the results.
I've also set up the gooseneck in a fixed position so that it doesn't slide up 'n down the mast slot. Then I've rigged a cunningham by securing a 10 ft 1/4" line to a SS padeye on the stbd side of the mast just lower than the gooseneck. The line is led up through the cunningham cringle and then down the port side of the mast to a swivel block. The extra line is tied to the handle on the main cabin hatch.
This lashup lets me quickly and easily change the cunningham tension from the cockpit. Here's a link that shows the swivel block (the photo is part of the tech tips section of this website) http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/tech/tech25/snkvang.asp
Bill has it right, of course... But regarding an earlier comment, I would be careful about using a winch on a cunningham (as opposed to on a halyard). The reinforcing around that reefing tack might not be what it is at the head of the sail or the lower tack (which is in effect reinforced by the foot of the sail)--a winch could easily put too much tension on it.
The cunningham is used to pull wrinkles out of the luff of the sail and thus move wind pressure from the leach more toward the luff. it takes very little effort to make the adjustment, usually only a good tug, then tie off on a cleat. I have mine secured on a double line clutch which also secures my rigid vang line. Too much "mechanical" pull may surley tear your sail.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.