Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am running my halyards and topping lift back to the cockpit through a deck organizer to a rope clutch -- How important it it to have a winch in this setup? Where would it go? Before the clutch or after? Seems like the line angle would be wrong if if came after the clutch. Anyone who can advise is greatly thanked.
The winch will allow you get your halyards nice and snug. Without going into a lot of detail here - trust me, the winch goes aft of the clutch. As for positioning, I placed mine aft of the handrail, centered approximately between the poptop and the (rounded) edge of the cabin.
I'm running lines aft, but with a roller furler, I won't bring the jib halyard back. I'll leave the winch on the mast for the jib, to get the furler rig tight. I don't plan on using a winch for the main halyard I'm running aft, but just in case, I'm mounting the clutches by the handrail to leave room for winches, in case I change my mind.
One consideration: If you plan to use winches with clutches, mount the clutches forward far enough so the angles (vertical and horizontal) of the lines to the winch is no more than about 10 degrees. Otherwise, when you really crank the winch, you'll be putting major upward and/or sideways forces on the clutch. Since you wrap winches clockwise, that means the cluch should come close to lining up with the starboard side of the winch.
BTW, an earilier post suggested that lines would contact the pop-top because of its curve... The way I positioned my triple deck organizer, which is oriented more for-to=aft than side-to-side, (not at 45 degrees) there's plenty of clearance for three lines between the handrail and the poptop. Done that way, the lines can be very close to each other, which shouldn't be a problem. I ran lines through the components, which I taped to the deck, in order to figure out the positions and angles.
Tomorrow, I'll finish the project, and Sunday, we'll sail without my having to skin my knees on the nonskid by the mast! It just keeps getting better!
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT
Find someone with a later model C25 and look at how it's done. The 1988, 1989, and 1990 models had it as standard with a small winch on each side. If you use line stoppers you add them before the winch so that one winch can be used for 2 or 3 lines. If you don't then the winch is dedicated to a line.
On port I have a tack line to the cruising chute, the jib halyard, and the vang. On starboard, I have main halyard and the 1st reef. The original standard equipment came with only halyards and no stoppers.
My clutches are about a foot forward of the winch. The winch is between the grabrail and the poptop, at the aft edge of the coach roof. I've had absolutely no problems with angles. . . play with the placement before you start drilling holes. The only issue sometimes is that the lines will catch under the poptop when I lower it. Switching this year from 3/8 to 5/16 line has helped with that.
Ed - maybe I'm dumb, but what's the diamond patterned doohickey on the cabin top? Did you have a problem missing the galley light when you installed the winch? Derek
Derek, No kidding, it doesn't cover a mistake. I have these little no-skid patches where ever I do a lot of stepping. When my bimini is down I step up onto the coach roof from from just in front of the jib sheet winch to that spot to the side of the halyard winch. Sometimes my bifocals make stepping down an adventure and I need the best footing I can get.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
Thanks for all the insights. Actually I was sailing with a very "old salt" who has had 23 boats and been to the south seas many times. I took him sailing and he looked at my setup (turning block below the mast running on the starboard side back to a triple clutch. He asked "why do you need a winch on the cabin top; you can run those lines right down to the starboard combing winch ( about a 2 foot run)" problem solved with existing equipment. There may be a little friction on the fiberglass as the line runs down at an angle, but I can always put a friction plate there. The winch is free to use as I raise the main; and at sea I can furl the headsail when I need to use the winch for the reefing line. Problem solved, unless there is something I'm not thinking of.
I use to use the coaming winch until the halyard started rubbing through cetol on the teak trim on the bulkhead. A friction plate would certainly alleviate that - just not as much fun to install!
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...and at sea I can furl the headsail when I need to use the winch for the reefing line. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> At sea, if the winch is holding the jib, tack--and then reef. <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.