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Consternated Anchoring

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Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2007 : 06:57:46

Yes, I am close to that powerboat and one on my stern. Here is another photo

The marina has moved the boat in front of me forward another 2 feet or so, but yes it is a tight slip. I have yet to have any problems though and that includes a lot of single handling with no dock help. I am just very careful and it helps that the marina is on a well protected creek. I just hope the powerboaters do not hit me.

I have not tried out my anchor lately. I might this weekend if I do an overnight trip.

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2007 : 07:47:37

Justin,
Make sure and take some photos if you do an overnighter so you can post on the cruising forum!

Edited by - DaveR on 08/29/2007 07:48:20

PamC
Navigator

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171 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2007 : 16:08:12

Gee, I almost appreciate not having the furler I want yet. Anchoring can be a bit of a yoga exercise, but I love those sunsets and sunrises on the hook

Edited by - PamC on 08/29/2007 16:08:53

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2007 : 12:34:58

Hey, Attwood has something like my idea of a padeye with a racheting block behind the roller.

Attwood

Lift N Lock
Anchor Control
Economical steel/zinc plate anchor lift and nylon pulley system.
Steel sheave controls anchor from any position.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2007 : 13:30:24

...apparently for small boats--it won't take a 1/2" rode.

Edited by - on

Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 09/05/2007 : 15:24:27

On Monday I had a good time sailing and then dropping the hook for lunch and hanging out. This time I wanted to try to figure out an easier way to anchor. I took the recommendation of letting out the anchor and rode from behind the pulpit. Once I let out enough scope, I placed the rode in the anchor roller, and then secured it to the cleat. To raise the anchor, you cannot really use the roller since the rode is coming up at an angle being pulled outside the pulpit. I just pulled it up over the side, which works, but you don’t get the advantage of being able to pull back on the roller. To break the anchor free from the bottom, I pulled in all the slack, secured the rode to the cleat and as the bow bobbed up and down I pulled in the slack and secured it again so as the bow went up, it pulled the anchor.

Since I don’t have a U-bolt mounted to the bitter end of my rode, I tied a stainless steel clip and clipped it to the headstay fitting. Works for now and I may not bother with a U-bolt.

Here is a photo of how my rode is guided while at anchor:

So far, I think this is the best method. The time before I actually held the bitter end and brought it inside the pulpit to tie off. If I let go of that, I’d say bye to my anchor and rode. Then when I raised the anchor, I pulled in all the rode from the roller, but then had a pile of rode on the deck with the anchor stuck on the other side of the furler line!

Edited by - on

Michael B
Deckhand

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USA
13 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2007 : 15:47:33

Hey Guy's,
How much rode and chain can you put in that locker?I would like to be able to anchor in at least 50' of water.Do you carry enough for that?

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2007 : 16:25:23

There is one more thing you can do. Sorry if this has already been mentioned. there is a perforated, non-slip , rubber-like matting that is used for things like lining a tool drawer. It works very well in the anchor locker to cushion the anchor and line.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2007 : 18:17:29

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Michael B
 Hey Guy's,
How much rode and chain can you put in that locker?I would like to be able to anchor in at least 50' of water.Do you carry enough for that?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Mike, you understand that means 350ft of rode, right? At least, I assume the 7:1 ratio still holds for that depth. I'd want a windlass for hauling it up.

Edited by - on

Michael B
Deckhand

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USA
13 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2007 : 19:41:41

John,
I understand that.That's why I asked.How much rode can you get in that compartment? I've been on the water for years in our waters off San Diego and it's very common to anchor in 50 plus feet of water.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2007 : 23:02:43

If it ends up mattering the 89 Catalina 25s had significantly larger anchor locker than the earlier models.

There is 5 feet of chain and 150 feet of line under that anchor and you can't even see it.

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 10/13/2007 23:12:17

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2007 : 23:10:34

Since the beginning of this thread I have replaced the 13lb steel anchor with a Fortress 7 which weighs almost nothing.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2007 : 13:23:30

Mike,
On our C250 (which looks like it has a smaller anchor locker than a 25, but I don't actually know for sure), we have a 16# claw with 300' of 3/8" rode which includes 25' of chain and a 13# Danforth with about 100' of rode and maybe six feet of chain. Both fit inside the locker, but you have to work at it a bit. So, I'd think if you were using a single anchor, you could fairly easily get 400' of rode in your locker.

I want to add to the rode on the Danforth, I thought I had 150', but I added depth tags and ran out at just over 90+ (didn't get to the 120 that was next). I'd like to have at least 200' for the smaller anchor, but not sure I could fit it in.

Edited by - on

Michael B
Deckhand

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USA
13 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2007 : 14:57:21

Thanks David,
That would be plenty of rode for me.

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2007 : 16:04:54

I can give you the co-ordinates of an aluminum folding anchor, its in about 20' of water under some logs on the north shore of Salmon Arm on Shuswap lake.
The story of its loss is still painful and cannot be related here until sufficient time has passed. The passage of time makes most things funny and/or worthy of a good tale. Need more time.
I will stick with my heavy, heavy duty steel Danforth. It holds nicely for me in mud, weeds, gravel, sand. Because of its weight, it is easy to set. I found the aluminum to be finicky to set.

I'd like to hear some first hand reports on the holding ability of these aluminum anchors.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2007 : 16:28:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Stampeder: I can give you the co-ordinates of an aluminum folding anchor, its in about 20' of water under some logs on the north shore of Salmon Arm on Shuswap lake.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I'm sure you already had this thought, but could you dive for it? I'd guess the water's pretty cold, but maybe with a dry suit?

Edited by - delliottg on 10/15/2007 16:29:49

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2007 : 18:21:56

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by stampeder
 I found the aluminum to be finicky to set.

I'd like to hear some first hand reports on the holding ability of these aluminum anchors.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Me too. I guess I will just need to use it before I haul in a couple of weeks. The lit sings it's praises but the proof is in the mud.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2007 : 19:33:50

Every objective test I've read has found the Fortress (aluminum Danforth-type) to be among the top performers for initial sets, holding power, and resetting after a 180-degree swing. I'm always surprised by how much better the Fortress does than standard steel Danforths--can't say why except perhaps the sharpness of the fluke edges and angle of the flukes to the stock (which can be varied for the type of bottom). I got a Fortress as a secondary to the 22# Delta I carry on the bow roller. The Delta sets amazingly quickly and securely, based on my experience so far. I've yet to launch the Fortress.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 10/15/2007 19:35:21

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2007 : 00:20:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I'm sure you already had this thought, but could you dive for it? I'd guess the water's pretty cold, but maybe with a dry suit?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I'm an experienced diver. (certified since 1985)
The anchor is in a tangle of sunken, yet shifting logs. We drifted during the night and the anchor and chain found a most ingenious way to wedge themselves into a mass of logs. I tried to take pictures but I could not get close enough underwater, and I could not get a shot from the surface.
Because of the shifting logs, I was not going to get in there and mess around. A submerged log with a little bouyancy left in it is a dangerous thing.

The water there is cold, but not too cold to dive in. The area is close to a Log Sort (Canoe BC) and is apparently the place where logs that escape the mill go to hide.
Generally, its the Admiral that handles anchoring duties, so if an aluminum anchor is as good as the web site says, I'd sure like to get one. But, as stated, our experience so far is: Steel good, aluminum bad.
That said, anchoring is all about technique and we may have been off our game at the time. (see previous post about the amount of time for it to be funny, having not yet elapsed)

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2007 : 11:17:03

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by stampeder
 Generally, its the Admiral that handles anchoring duties, so if an aluminum anchor is as good as the web site says, I'd sure like to get one. But, as stated, our experience so far is: Steel good, aluminum bad.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...and a 7# Fortress and 25' of chain feels pretty much the same as a 13# Danforth and 25' of chain. But for some reason, the Fortress consistently tests better.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2007 : 12:09:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Stampeder: The anchor is in a tangle of sunken, yet shifting logs. We drifted during the night and the anchor and chain found a most ingenious way to wedge themselves into a mass of logs.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Sounds to me like you made the right decision, that'd be a scary place to dive into. I know I've been frightened in kelp forest before, but kelp can't kill you directly like a couple of sunken logs can.

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 10/24/2007 : 16:26:25

I dove near Carmel CA many years ago. We were in a kelp forest trying to find OGEE (overboard gear). I had two anxious moments. Once when I got tangled in some kelp (for about 30 very long agonizing frightening seconds) and then soon after when a seal came below and knocked my mask askew.

The sunken logs, on the other hand, were audible as well as visible underwater. There was no way I was going to get close. The kelp was silent and was not treated with proper respect.

I now SCUBA in only tropical water, with minimalist gear, close enough to the surface that I can abandon gear and make an emergency ascent. I don't do dry suits or wet suits or lobster gloves. Next scuba adventure is Dec-Jan this year, when I make my annual pilgrimage to Maui.

Edited by - on

windsong
Captain

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USA
318 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2009 : 20:54:49

I took a chance and bought a Fortress aluminum anchor as my backup anchor with 25' of 1/4" chain. I like it so much, I've promoted it to primary anchor. With all that chain, it goes down fast, even in current and bites almost as soon as it's on the bottom (mostly mud in my case). I'm very impressed. One bonus to the light weight that occurred to me is that it's easier to throw into deep water if you're aground and trying to kedge off. It's a minor consideration, I know, but a nice feature.
P.S. I just noticed that this thread goes back almost 2 years. Anyone's opinion changed on aluminum vs. steel?

Edited by - windsong on 07/31/2009 21:07:52

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2009 : 07:29:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by windsong
 I just noticed that this thread goes back almost 2 years. Anyone's opinion changed on aluminum vs. steel?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yup--lots of water under the keel since then... but in the recent tests I've read, including the new Rocna and Manson (roll-bar anchors), Fortress still does surprisingly well--much better than the other Danforth-types. Even for people who rarely use an anchor, this is not something to skimp on... In that one-time emergency when you need it to bite and hold quickly and securely, you need the right stuff. Right Sten?

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2009 : 13:18:43

Justin, and others with an anchor roller:
Here a suggestion if you want to keep the rode in the roller while retrieving most of the the anchor rode. Keep the clip on the end of your rode and secured as in your picture above or to the stanchion base like I do, but add a "twing" line (a decent sized block and short line like what you use on spinnaker sheets) to the anchor rode, tied off to the rear base of the bow pulpit or the first stanchion. Retrieve rode through bow roller as you would normally but only until you start to see chain. Cleat rode and pull in on the twing line from outside the bow pulpit. Grab rode and pull anchor in the rest of the way, behind the bow pulpit. Shake off mud and stow in anchor locker on top of anchor rode. You could even route it under the top pulpit rail to minimize exposed rode. It will be a little bit more unsightly, but you won't need to take the rode out of the roller, unless you just want to.

Edited by - on

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