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Attention Dave Seely, Leon Sisson or OJ

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Initially Posted - 07/27/2002 : 13:47:02

I think you guys have answered a problem I have but I'm confused. In the West Marine catalog and in the boat repair books it talks about sealing the gelcoat so it will cure and gives several ways of doing so. (all difficult). When you apply your product does it need to be sealed from the air or do you just spray it on and let it dry. I need to do the entire topside, especially the cockpit area but have hesitated to try because of the curing problem. Could you go into a little more detail as to how big of an area you do each time and how you protect the application until it is dry.

As Dennis Pierce stated in an earlier posting, repainting the non skid is "slicker than owl snot". Have you repainted non skid with Gelcoat and is it slick as with paint or does it manage to retain the non skid?

This is a project I'm going to need to face up to or do as an earlier poster...get to enjoy the look of weathered topsides. Thanks.

Bob Arrowood

Robert B. Arrowood

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Ed Montague
Captain

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Response Posted - 07/27/2002 : 15:16:41

At the resent Catalina Rendezvous I attended a seminar lead by a representive from a gel coat manufacture. This guy fixed some major chips and scratches as we watched. He made it look very easy.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

There are two ways of applying gel coat, brushing and spraying. In both cases an additive is mixed into the gel coat before applying. For brushing you use PVA and I can't remember the name of the spray additive. Tese additives are available at WM. These are wax like fluids that float to the surface after the gel coat is applied to create a sealer so the gel coat can cure. The sprayer can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. for under $10 and is aerosol powered so you don't need alot of expensive spray equipment. He handed out an instruction sheet that is probably on the boat still. I will try to find it and get a copy to whoever wants one.

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~

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Dave Seely
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Response Posted - 07/27/2002 : 20:12:03

I've never repaired any areas larger that a few square inches but here is a link to some data on surface agent( wax additive) http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/pdf/polyester/SurfAgent.pdf . I've used it on all gelcoat repairs I've made and haven't had any problems with getting a tack free cure.
I think I would try masking off the smooth areas and spraying small nonskid areas first, like the hatch on the anchor compartment. Horizontal surfaces probably won't be a problem but I never have figured out how to get a thick enough coat on a vertical surface without it running.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 07/28/2002 : 21:26:14

The curing issue is the biggest problem with off the shelf gelcoats (i.e., Evercoat.)
Too make a long story short, I bought gelcoat supplies from www.minicraft.com in Florida. It had a sealing substance already mixed into the gelcoat.
There's no comparison between the two products. Spend the extra buck at MiniCraft - it's well worth it.
Talk to Paul at Minicraft regarding how big of an area to spray at a time. These guys teach courses on fiberglass and gelcoat repair.

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Leon Sisson
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Response Posted - 07/29/2002 : 16:29:30

Bob,

Let me see if I can further confuse you.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>... sealing the gelcoat so it will cure ... need to be sealed from the air or do you just spray it on and let it dry?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Yes, generally speaking gelcoat needs to be sealed from air to cure, it doesn't dry through evaporation like paint. I know of several ways to do this:
<ul>
<li>Purchase "finishing resin/gelcoat" which already contains a low viscosity wax additive.</li>
<li>Purchase the surfacing wax separately, and mix it in yourself. In either case, wash the wax off with detergent after the gelcoat hardens.</li>
<li>Spray PVA (Poly Vinyl Alchohol) on the repair when you're ready for a hard surface to form. Wash the PVA off with water after the gelcoat hardens.</li>
<li>Carefully apply a layer of plastic film over the repair to exclude oxygen.</li>
</ul>

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>... a little more detail as to how big of an area you do each time and how you protect the application until it is dry.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>Start small, and increase the active surface area of the repair work to whatever you need and can manage. If you bite off more than you can chew, you'll know it! As for protecting it, just keep the kids and other small animals from touching it until it's cured for a few hours. Gelcoat repair projects don't seem to be as vulnerable to tiny flying bugs, dust, etc. as paint and varnish. For one thing, you're probably going to be sanding/polishing, etc. after it hardens (except for patterned nonskid). Also, the wet-to-the-touch time is measured in minutes (seems like seconds), not hours.

And remember, gelcoat repair is an acquired skill. I suggest you start on a small inconspicuous chip or ding first, and only advance to recoating large areas after you've built up your confidence. If you're going to try to spray more than a couple of square foot area, you may want to skip the canned air, and go with a compressor. (Harbor Freight Tools has a 2HP for $100.)

Good luck!<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

-- Leon Sisson

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Response Posted - 07/31/2002 : 18:42:03

Thanks for the replys. Painting is a true next year project and you know they say next year never comes. I think I will try a small area with gelcoat but I'm thinking that because of the large area I will probably need to repaint. Thanks again.

Bob Arrowood

Robert B. Arrowood

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Champipple
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Response Posted - 08/01/2002 : 14:25:56

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I will try to find it and get a copy to whoever wants one.

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

count me in on a copy of that....

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b1ce23b3127cce9b043565af3d0000004010" border=0>

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Buzz Maring
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Response Posted - 08/01/2002 : 15:33:53

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I will try to find it and get a copy to whoever wants one.

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

count me in on a copy of that....
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Me, too ... thanks!!

Buzz Maring, C-25 SK/SR #68, "Freya"

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