Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Got a new set a sails (150 Genoa and Main Sail) from National Sail Supply down in Florida - but I need to buy jib sheets and a furling uphaul sheet (I have a CDI Continuous Furling with an internal traveler/sheet for raising the genoa - but it needs a length of rope from the sheave on the masthead to the deck - sorry for my inaccurate termonolgy - maybe I'll get it right after a few years ) - what sizes should I get? Diameter and length?
Welcome to this site...lots to learn here and good sailing with your Cat...as far as jib sheet,get a 3/8" or 7/16" diameter...larger is generally easier on the hands.Total length will be 75', and you'll attach it to the jib in the middle of it's length either by tying or with a shackle of some sort for easier removal.Personally I use a shackle which allows me to remove the sheet without the hassle of untying....just make sure you get a GOOD one with a swivel and use stainless....costs more but it'll last forever.....Gene
My jib sheets, courtesy of the DPO, are half-inch, which I find to be a bit too big. For one thing, I found I couldn't possibly use "Winchers"--the rubber rings that act like self-tailer rings on the winches--too fat for them. I don't know whether 3/8" would work for that, but I think that's what I'd get if I were replacing them.
I tied my sheets (one line for both sides) by making a "fold" at the midpoint, pushing it through the jib clew to form a loop, leading the two ends through the loop, and then pulling them tight. I think there's an farm-animal-based name for it (like cow hitch), but am not sure about that. We have roller furling, and only remove the sheet when we're about to take the genny to be "cleaned and pressed," so quick removal is no issue for us.
Be careful about putting a shackle there--a jib can really whip around when it's luffing, and a piece of heavy metal on the clew could do some damage to rigging or people.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT
I replaced the internal halyard on my CDI furler with 60' of 1/4' line. If I only needed a line to attach to the traveler car for raising the sail, I would have only needed about 30'. Works fine for me, but my furler is not the same model as yours. I just sewed the old & new halyards end to end and pulled the new one thru. BTW, I have a standard rig. If you have a tall rig, you'll probably need a little longer line. Anyway it's pretty easy to measure the length you need with a couple spare lines. Hope this helps.
Another good way to attach the sheets for easy removal is to whip a short (~1') length of 1/2" line with a figure eight on the outboard end to the bight in the middle of your ~75' length of jib sheet, back far enough from the loop to allow for enough of the loop to pass through the clew cringle. When you pass the bight through the clew cringle you pull the short length of line through the loop, then pull the sheets back through the cringle until held in place by the short peice of line. To remove it, just pull out on the figure eight until enough of the sheet is out to release the small line from the sheet, and pull it out. It's called a toggle.
Ok, I know that the owner's manual states the jib sheets are 75 feet long (in total), but that sounds like a lot of line to me. Here's the deal as far as I can see.
When I furl the jib. I put two wraps around the sail so I use up 5 ft if line (2 ½ for each sheet). The line then runs back to the winch, and to store the sheet I wrap all the remaining line around the winch drum, maybe 5 ft of line. If I pulled all the line aft, I expect it would reach to the transom, more or less. So: 25 ft for each side plus 5 ft more equals 55 ft. Tack on (no pun) another 5 ft for good measure (pun) and you still only come up with 60 ft. What am I missing??
I think you're missing the extra amount the lazy sheet has to go - up the windward side, across the boat, and out as much as a 150 might be on a broad reach or run downwind.
Dave - I've only heard your "cow's hitch" called a Larkshead Knot. It's the one I use to bend on the lightweight jib sheets (1/4" diam). Rick - John is correct. The sheets for a 150 should be 1 1/2 x boat length (for each sheet). When we pole out our 155 with 16' 8 1/2" of pole we use ALL 75 feet. For a 110 they only need to be the length of the boat (each sheet). (I think for a chute they should be twice the boat length - but as I don't have one, I'm not certain!) Derek (now getting serious withdrawal symptoms...)
Dave: I'm pretty sure what you're describing is a girth hitch. I found that if I put two half hitches on one of the lines, it works better, because a girth hitch depends on equal tension on both lines to stay secure.
Yes, I am an Eagle Scout . . . More importantly, my father learned his marlinspike seamanship on the USS Constellation during WW One when it was decked over in Baltimore harbor and being used as a training ship. He then passed it on to me. Unfortunately, splicing double braid was not included in the instruction.
Brooke: Who am I to argue with an Eagle Scout with a father from the USN?? However, that ???? hitch has worked fine for me on two boats, this one with a 130 genny. I've never seen the slightest hint of slippage, and it CAN'T POSSIBLY let go unless both tails pull completely through. (That's the main disadvantage--it's cumbersome to disconnect from the clew.) Obviously, there never is equal tension, but it definitely holds.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT
"Cow Hitch or Lark's Head - A small existing loop turned inside itself when you want to fasten a line to a large piling. It is also useful to fasten such a loop to a ring, provided the other end of the line is free. Many people use this hitch to fasten a jib sheet to the clew of a jib on a small sailboat.
The picture in the book is exactly as Dave described it.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.