Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I bought a brand new coleman 495 camp stove at a garage sale this weekend for 10 bucks.
Would this be dangerous to use on my boat? I currently use a single burner top heavy propane burner.
My main concerns are carbon monoxide buildup when using below, and other fumes. The version I have only will use coleman fuel. It works great in my back yard, I was so pumped I cooked dinner on it last night just to test it out lol.
There are 10 kinds of people in this world. Those that understand binary and those that don't
Personally, I prefer propane but still take precautions. I mostly use my BBQ, mounted on stern rail so while I dont have to worry about fumes, I am cautious. I will never forget while in Catalina, I saw a guy with this BBQ on fire and he didnt use fire extinguisher to put it out. Not sure why cuz he was on a 40+'er and I would hate to see my boat on fire. Maybe he thought he would ruin his BBQ. I wouldnt be because he didnt have a fire extinguisher on board, would it? Bottom line, always be careful.
I have a propane camp stove that I plan to bring on my C-25 as well. I haven't brought it aboard yet, but when I do use it, I will store the canister in the small starboard side cockpit locker and use the stove in the cockpit so I should not have any problems with fumes in the cabin.
You can pick up a 9 volt battery powered CO monitor for around $35 at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. I'd recommend one if you're using any device that burns fuel inside your boat such as a stove, or heater, etc. We have both the stove & a Coleman catalytic heater on ours. Our CO monitor is mounted on the port side of the cabin, just above the settee, along with the required-by-WA-state CO warning.
We store our propane bottles in the fuel locker which is properly vented. It's not an optimal storage situation since the propane bottles are snuggled up to the gas can, but I plan to construct a 4" PVC storage container that's vented over the side attached to one of the stanchions or catbird seats. You need to be careful with propane, it runs like water and will settle in the bilge of your boat, you shouldn't store the bottles inside the cabin.
I'd be wary of a white gas stove as well, but I think it'd be safe to use inside the boat as long as you take similar precautions as for a propane stove or heater.
Our original curtain burner has been retrofitted to propane. I use the little propane bottles, which store nicely behind it. I also use a tent heater (catalytic) and a rail mounted BBQ using the same propane bottles. We have two fire extinguishers on board (BC & ABC) Propane is heavier than air and I understand that while having a CO2 monitor is a good idea...I still am not sure what to do if there is a build up of Propane in the bilge. In light of this ignorance, I open the forward hatch and the companionway while cooking, to create cross ventilation.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by stampeder</i> <br />Our original curtain burner has been retrofitted to propane. I use the little propane bottles, which store nicely behind it... Propane is heavier than air and I understand that while having a CO2 monitor is a good idea...I still am not sure what to do if there is a build up of Propane in the bilge. In light of this ignorance, I open the forward hatch and the companionway while cooking, to create cross ventilation...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">But what do you do about a potentially leaky cannister when you're not cooking or not on the boat? Your propane should be stored outside--the starboard rope locker is a good place.
Propane won't produce CO (Carbon Monoxide) as long as the flame has an ample supply of fresh air (i.e. oxygen). Keep your cooking area well ventilated and you shouldn't have a problem cooking indoors (millions of folks use propane for cooking inside their houses).
Making sure the propane is safely stored and fumes can't accumulate in the bilge area is another issue...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">But what do you do about a potentially leaky cannister when you're not cooking or not on the boat? Your propane should be stored outside--the starboard rope locker is a good place<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Primary shut off valve before the stove control. the propane bottles are stored below (behind and below) the stove, so that there is no leakage when not in use. Over three years, this has been a very good system. We also have a new coleman stove that we use when camping. I would not use it on the boat because the connection seems to be the weak spot, and a little propane always seems to escape whenever we light it or shut it off.
I will post some pictures of our galley, as it has been modified to what I believe is a one-of-a-kind.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by stampeder</i> <br />...the propane bottles are stored below (behind and below) the stove, so that there is no leakage when not in use.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Theoretically.
A propane bottle stored upright is highly unlikely to leak. I have a 2' hose that runs from the propane bottle, from a shelf behind and below the stove. The hose has a shut off valve, that is turned off when the stove is not in use. The secondary, or control valve is located on the stove. When the bottle gets about half empty I move it to the shelf above the stove so that gravity can assist. I believe this is a very safe and practical way to operate a stove on a small boat. That said, I would be reluctant to use a coleman stove on my boat. The feature that I like about my Dickenson Sea-B-Q is that the propane bottle is mounted outboard.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by stampeder</i> <br />A propane bottle stored upright is highly unlikely to leak...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Patently false. LP is only liquid under very high pressure--it's pressurized gas that exits the tank, not liquid. Put the canister where you want--if there's no more pressure (from the liquid), there will be no flow. But neither The US nor Canadian Coast Guards would approve your installation. That's why boat builders put the tanks in ventilated lockers where they can't leak into the cabin or bilge (the gas being heavier than air), and add thermocouple-activated solenoids at the tank. Without that, the CG won't certify the boat--probably due to some experiences...
Sorry about the soapbox act--like the Coasties, I just want people to be safe.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Sorry about the soapbox act--like the Coasties, I just want people to be safe.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I don't want to wake up dead, due to my own, or anyone else's ignorance/stupidity. Soapbox acts, with respect to any blunder I might foist upon myself is acceptable and appreciated.
In my on-going quest for boating simplicity, I stuck with this two valve system. I will look into running a line from the rope locker forward to the galley. Are you saying that a ~15 ft flexible gas line will work with the little propane cannisters?
I've had the same thought about a long line for our stove. I like the idea of having the bottle completely out of the cabin even when I'm using it. I was thinking more like a 8-10 footer simply to get it out into the footwell from the galley. From the footwell of the cockpit if the bottle does leak, it simply flows off the back of the boat to dissipate.
As far as the little bottles working with a longer line, the only problem I'd think you'd see is a bit of fuel waste when you disconnect because of the gas in the line. I'm no expert though there could be flaws in my thought.
If you do run a line, you need to make sure it's vapor tight where it enters the cabin and the locker is vented over the side, not into the cabin or bilge. Propane flows just like water & will pool in low spots waiting to explode.
For those who might not be aware, Coleman makes two types of portable gas stoves. One is a 2 burner gas cooking stove, for heating pots and pans, and the other is a gas grill, for grilling foods over an open flame. I bought the grill, and it works fine. When I priced stainless steel gas grills for boats, I found that the Coleman grill, which was on sale at KMart for only $39.95, was by far the best deal. I cover the grill with foil, which greatly simplifies the clean-up process on the boat.
When I'm done, the grill closes compactly, and can be stored in a cockpit locker.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by stampeder</i> <br />In my on-going quest for boating simplicity, I stuck with this two valve system. I will look into running a line from the rope locker forward to the galley. Are you saying that a ~15 ft flexible gas line will work with the little propane cannisters?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">It seems to me the simplest and safest application of the Coleman canisters is to store them "outside" (such as in the rope locker--<i>not</i> the dumpster) whenever you're not using them. When it's time to cook, snap one on and cook away--in the cabin or the cockpit. The long line does not eliminate the problem of leaks--it adds a few potential sources of them. However, a shutoff at the tank or canister (outside), used religiously, makes that less of a concern. The professional installation includes a thermocouple-activated eletric shutoff that will close the valve at the external tank if the flame goes out on the stove. It may be slight overkill, but I believe the USCG requires it for certification.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.