Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by GaryB</i> <br />...I'm thinking that the fiberglass has just delaminated from the wood.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Maybe it's not delamination, but rather a manufacturing anomaly when they sandwhiched the deck and interior liner together that resulted in an incomplete mating of the cockpit seat to the underlying structure.
I'm just glad that the underlying wood seems to be solid! It feels like it's one big cavity so I think I may be able to drill one or two small holes and inject CPES up into the cavity and have it fill in the entire area instead of having to drill a bunch of holes.
C<b>PE</b>S is <u>P</u>enetrating <u>E</u>poxy, and might not do what you're describing--fill a gap <i>above</i> wood. It's intended to <i>soak into</i> wood (and will want to drain back down through your hole). Your objective suggests thickened epoxy, using microfibers or silica, the thickness depending on the size of the gap. (The wider the gap, the thicker you want the epoxy.) You might need more than one hole, but you can determine that after trying one, letting the epoxy set up fully, and seeing how it feels.
BTW, I'd do the drilling through the wood with a hand drill, to avoid inadvertantly going through the seat above.
Using a hand drill is a good idea Dave! No point in taking a chance of making the problem worse!
I hadn't noticed your earlier posting about the CPES. That's a good point also. Since I want to repair this area anyway I was thinking of injecting the CPES first and letting it setup then coming back with some type of epoxy to fill in the void.
Will this method work? If so, I figure I might as well waterproof the wood now since I will be in this area just in case a leak develops later.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.