Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a non convenient setup that I wish to change this season. I have 2 blocks on the mast that attach directly to the mast via a small back plate and cleats on the bottom. Nice piece of hardware where I can raise the halyard from the cockpit and lock in in place. However the problem is with placement where my jib sheets keep getting stuck around them when we tack.
I notice that most of your have mast steps where you can attach blocks. I don't have such a thing.
So I have 2 options. 1. Try lowering my existing hardware as much as possible and pray my sheets won't get caught. 2. Buy a new mast step, blocks, deck organizer all the way to rope clutches.
Comments?
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
Steve, on the 2005 model 250WB, the flanges that on either side of the mast step are welded to the mast step.
From Tom Potters description of sealing a leak at the mast step, I gather that the mast foot plate is welded to the pole that passes through the cabin top down to the coffee table.
My guess is that if catalina would confirms, you could remove the 1999 maststep/pole and replace it with the 2005.
Alternatively, weld plates to the sides of your mast step plate.
Steve One of Arlyns fixes for this problem works very well. I have used it for the past three or four years. The only problem I have is that after a year in the sun the shock cords need to be replaced. It is simply attahing an eye to the fron of the mast a few feet up from the deck, and running a shock cord thru it hooking on either side to the stanchions where the short cables attach for raising and lowering the mast. This forms an A, then run the jib sheets over this A to keep them off the deck and away from the blocks.
I have the flange you pictured on my '99 WK -same year different equipment. I run my jib sheets outside the shrouds. I know the shrouds are in different locations on the WB, but this may be a quick fix. I run a 135 genoa, so if I rig inside the shrouds it gets hung.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by SEAN</i> <br />there are mast base blocks , that screw to the deck.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The problem with them is that the pull against them, when the halyard is winched, is at an upward angle, which tends to break the bedding seal, causing leaks. The base plate is better--no new holes in the deck. It's an easy add-on to the C-25... What about the C-250?
Catalina Direct (where I took the mast step picture above from) only has models for the C25 and C30. I run my sheets inside since I have a 110% jib. When sheets start flapping in the air they get caught on the bottom block almost 75% of the time really annoying. This summer we wrapped a small PFD around these blocks once the sails where up, worked great but looks stupid.
Looking at my picture, maybe I can pierce a side hole in my existing step plate forward of the mast so I can put in 2 eyes on both side. Then attach blocks to these eyes.
Arlyn has fixed this through this low cost mod. I'll try this first. Thanks everyone and a special thanks goes to Arlyn for providing the solution on his web site.
This is Arlyn's anti jib sheet fouling line setup. But I don't understand how he runs his port jib sheet aft through a block at the height of the port lifeline. Can anyone, including Arlyn, explain this mod?
Steve; I did a fix similar to Arlyn's, I found a shock cord at Lowe's or Home Depot that is made up of a plastic ball with a loop of shock cord about 6" long. I pull the shock cord loop through the hole in the bottom of the main halyard cleat then pull the ball through the loop. When we go sailing I pull the ball over the jib halyard cleat which pulls it and the main halyard cleat back out of the way. It's a simple cheap fix and a can of those shock cords with the ball on the end has many other uses around the boat. I think that I had to shorten the length of the loop to make it a little tighter by pulling the knot through the ball and making a new knot. I don't think I've fowled the jib sheet since I made this simple mod.
Bill C250wb #134 Serendipity on beautiful Kerr Lake, N.C.
The Jib sheet with the extra block in the picture is a different topic. That allows you to adjust the jib draft (or twist) without moving the jib cars.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by AADIVER</i> <br />...But I don't understand how he runs his port jib sheet aft through a block at the height of the port lifeline...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">As Newbie says, that's a "twing"--a nice way to be able to adjust the lead angle of the jib sheet for wind strength without having to move the cars. Note that the twing line, instead of the sheet, goes down to the car and then back to the cockpit where it can be adjusted. Edit: Oops--Rus already said that.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.