Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've had an ST1000+ plus for the past 6 or 7 years and in that time, its burned up two circuit boards. The first one was covered under warranty, but the second cost me $200.00. If it were to give up the ghost again, I'd be inclined to try out the Simrad line of autopilots. Breakdown aside, operationally, the ST1000 is a good unit. Some might suggest getting the ST2000 instead, and maybe they're right, but I don't see the advantage.
If you are looking for autopilots, Defender has them at somewhat reasonable prices. Or at least they did.
There's a pretty good price difference between the TP10 and the TP22. The mfg says the the TP 10 should fit our boats. I've heard the stories about gear stripping and I understand why one might want to "over-size". Is there anybody out there satisfied with the TP 10 on their boat?
Sounds like the difference is more electronic than mechanical... The TP22 has connectivity that the TP10 apparently doesn't have. The thrust and speed are very close.
After deciding on a brand, you'll also have to decide on the mount type. I went with a cantilever mount because I wanted something that allowed the least obtrusive hardware to be put on the tiller (standard small pin) and that would allow use of my cockpit cushions while the autopilot was engaged.
I mounted the Raymarine st2000 on my 89 wing. Since this unit has more power than the 1000, I mounted the pivot point 14" ahead of the centerline of the rudder pintles instead of the 16" which was specified. Works faster. I also bought the 3" extension for the plunger. I mounted the socket on top of the deck on the port side of the boat to keep it out of the way of the motor. By mounting the socket flush with the deck, you don't have to use a cantilever mount which could jab you in the back. Youch. I mounted the electrical socket inside the coaming.
I used this setup in a 70 mile voyage to the Dry Tortugas from Key west and it worked great both ways. Coming back we had headwinds and 4 foot seas to plow into while motoring and the tiller pilot kept us on track. I adjusted out course to match the line I drew out on my chartplotter. I was glad for an extra long shaft power thrust motor too.
If I wasn't so sick of technology I would learn how to take and post digital pics for you.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Gloss</i> <br />I mounted the pivot point 14" ahead of the centerline of the rudder pintles instead of the 16" which was specified. Works faster...By mounting the socket flush with the deck, you don't have to use a cantilever mount which could jab you in the back. Youch....I was glad for an extra long shaft power thrust motor too.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Frank,
I don't think speed is really that revelant since, in my experience, under normal operation, the ramrod is only moving about an inch or less to keep a course. As to the higher thrust, unless you have a barn door for a rudder, the couple of pounds of force difference between the two units doesn't really mean much since if you have a balanced sail plan, you should have minimum helm pressure. Even when the winds are blowing pretty good, I have two finger control. On a C25, if you're in conditions that require the autopilot to go lock-to-lock or need those few extra pounds of thrust, then you shouldn't be on autopilot. Remember, if the helm is tricky for a human, then it will be virtually impossible for an autopilot.
As for the cantilever mount jabbing you in the back, it must be an 89' wing thing, because that's not an issue on my boat. (You do know the cantilever is removable, right?)
While plowing through 4 to 6 foot quartering seas my autopilot would swing through an arc of about 30 degrees to each side. And do it quickly. I know that this isn't "normal" conditions, but it is nice to have this capability. Power usage wasn't a problem as Mr. Moto (my Honda) was cranking out lots of amps.
I didn't know that the cantilever mount would remove. I don't have to remove the socket set into the deck. To each his own.
I'm sure the next owner of my boat will appreciate having overcapacity with "Otto". I hope he/she will push the boat to it's limits too. With new sails, rigging, fixed keel, and having Mr. Moto and Otto they should be very happy campers indeed
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Gloss</i> <br />I didn't know that the cantilever mount would remove. I don't have to remove the socket set into the deck. To each his own.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Due to the added expense of the cantilever mount, I also considered the deck mount option, but according to the installation instructions and my calculations, my boat's tiller would've required a 3 1/2" - 4 1/2" pin or pin bracket on the top of the tiller.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Due to the added expense of the cantilever mount, I also considered the deck mount option, but according to the installation instructions and my calculations, my boat's tiller would've required a 3 1/2" - 4 1/2" pin or pin bracket on the top of the tiller.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I purchaced and installed a bracket for the pin on the botom of the tiller and mounted the autohelm using the deck mount on the starboard settee after reinforcing the the cover and the slide bolt locking mechanism. Have never had a problem and every thing is out of the way.
I think I am going to go with the tp10. I had a Navico tp100 on my last boat a Potter 19 and it worked well. I did "strip the gears" once due to operator error. While dropping the sails the boat fell off course and the tiller was hard over. The outboard could not bring the bow around so the the the auto pilot kept trying to get back on course stripping the gears.
Don I like the way you mounted your auto pilot did you require any additional push-rods?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by John Pittman</i> <br />Don I like the way you mounted your auto pilot did you require any additional push-rods?
No, John, I didn't need any pushrod extensions. When installing the cantilever mount, you cut the cantilever to the appropriate length then epoxy the end fitting on the end of it.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.