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Installing battery cables for new Tohatsu

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/11/2008 : 11:41:11

My new engine's supposed to show up today. I'm wondering how you guys with similar engines install and route the battery cables for the electric start & charging circuits? Currently I just have a charging circuit, but it's only 12 gauge, almost certainly not enough for starting. How & where have you routed your start cables & charging wires? I'm kind of presuming it's like a car and the start cables are the charge wires? I've never owned an electric start OB so this is new to me.

David
C-250 Mainsheet Editor

Sirius Lepak
1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --

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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 12:03:33

David, we have the Tohatsu 9.8hp electric start and your presumptions are correct.
The engine came with the cable. Ours is plugged into the engine and then passes through a hole drilled though the cable ding in the stbd round-down. From there it attaches directly to our Battery Set.

I don't like the 'drilled hole', it's just filled with some gunk to make it waterloose. (definitely not water tight). I'll be upgrading that to a throughhull cable clamp this summer.

You'll love the Tohatsu, quiet, easy start electric or pull.

Paul

Edited by - britinusa on 04/11/2008 12:04:15

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 12:59:02

Paul,
Is it a single cable, or two separate cables?

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John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 14:56:49

The original owner of Kaija routed the cable through the fuel locker vent and had a hole drilled and fitted with some PVC pipe (>2") where he routed the cable down to the battery below. I thought it a bit strange to run the ELECTRIC cable through the fuel locker but was convinced here last year that it was OK.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 16:12:05

Well, FedEx just dropped off the new engine, and I have to say, kudos to the driver, he volunteered to help me get it lifted onto the transom of the boat. What a guy! Wouldn't even let me give him a softdrink for his troubles. I was concocting all kinds of methods of getting 100 lbs over my head by myself, problem solved.

Now on to the next problem: the turning radius. The throttle handle hits the fuel box, and the lift handle hits the stern under the cat bird seat. I think I may have enough clearance -barely- if I put a block in between the transom and the mount, taking up all the slack in the clamps. How have you guys solved this problem? I don't want to have to add an extension on the stern if at all possible, and I don't know enough about working with fiberglass to fabricate something out of the existing transom.

Oh, and the question about the cables is answered as well. John, do you have pictures of your battery cable arrangement? It seems to make some sense to run the cable into the fuel locker, then up and into a PVC pipe run down into the battery compartment. I just don't want to end up in a situation where gas could possibly get into the bilges. If the PVC ran up close to the top of the fuel box before going down into the battery compartment with a gooseneck to route it, that should work?

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Jarrett Anderson
1st Mate

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61 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 18:04:30

David,
Hey does that new motor have power tilt? I run my battery cable runs through the boot were the steering connection is made to the rudder, no drilling. I believe you would have to have wheel steering to use this method.

New four stroke motors with electric start and alternators are much bigger than the older motors. You may consider a motor mount. It gives you more turning range, but does shift the 100 lbs. motor back a bit. If I worried too much about weight distribution on the boat I would have to quit drinking Heineken in the cat bird seat.

Enjoy the new motor!

Jarrett _/)

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John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 18:19:44

I have mine mounted on a [url="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?dispName=Engine%20Systems&jspStoreDir=wm51&catalogId=10001&Ne=69&Ntt=Motor%20Mounts&N=377+710+1703+4294966921&langId=-1&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&omniTag=Brand%3aGARELICK&PopularCat=No&storeId=10001"]Garelick Offshore Motor Mount[/url]. No clearance problems but the lean over the transom is sometimes interesting.

I honestly don't know which of the 2 I have since it was installed by the original owner.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 18:23:06

Jarret,
No, it doesn't have power tilt, I'm not sure Tohatsu even offers that option, but I can't see where it'd be all that useful. We have a tiller, so there are no other controls already run into the boat. I just spent some time looking at plumbing supplies and I think I have a solution. My plan is to drill a hole through the floor of the fuel locker, epoxy in a 1-1/2" drain pipe with a goose neck so the opening faces down.

Does anyone know how thick the fiberglass is there?

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britinusa
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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 19:40:04

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Does anyone know how thick the fiberglass is there?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It's probably less than 0.25" thick. I doubt it's as thick as the cockpit floor, if it is then it's more like 1.25"

Paul

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 20:20:10

Paul,
You've got a hard link installed on your Tohatsu, right? Did you have to mount the engine on an extender to get clearance? Maybe the newer boats have more room in the OB well?

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 21:51:19

David, I think you are correct regarding the newer boats as our Tohatsu is mounted directly on the transom. I did have to move it to port to allow more outboard tiller movement. But as you may have read elsewhere, it's the wheel system that limits the rotation of the rudder which in our case is hardlinked to the engine.

Paul

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2008 : 22:44:10

Crap, I hadn't planned on having to install an extension. I've got a line on a Garelick 71090 for $100, but it's on Craigslist, and even though I offered to drive down & pick it up immediately, the guy is giving someone else several days to pay for it, and several more to pick it up. I can't fault the guy for keeping his promise, but my experiences with CL indicate that first person to show up with the cash wins. He said he'd call me back on Monday evening if the money hadn't shown up by then. We'll see. I'd really like to get the engine mounted this weekend, but maybe not. If I can save $150 by waiting a few days, so be it. On the plus side, he's got his phone number listed incorrectly in his ad and I had to guess the right one, so that should limit the number of people calling him.

The advantage of the Garelick is that I'll be able to get the prop even deeper in the water. The disadvantage is now I wonder how I'll have to construct the hard link? Obviously you can't make it work at all the different extensions, so maybe I'll have to choose one to use when maneuvering. Dunno, will have to think about it & noodle it out once I have the extension.

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John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 08:56:00

Give it a season without the hardlink. You may decide, like I did, that it's a luxury, not a necessity. That said, of course, without ever using one.

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SCnewbie
Navigator

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166 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 13:03:46

My outboard doesn't even swivel. It is fixed in position...at least I think it is. Makes for a real pain in the butt at the ramp with the current we have down here. I was like a drunken billiards player trying to figure out the angles for spring lines I should run to get away from the dock. I wonder if I can change it back so that it can turn.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 16:03:03

Your outboard swivels, it probably has the friction lever/knob maxed out. Loosen it up and you'll be all set.

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Bubba
Admiral

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USA
542 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 20:18:42

David,
Have you already tried using a plate against the aft side of the transom to set the new outboard back a bit? Just wondering if that might get you enough clearance to turn it.

Regarding routing your cables down through the fuel locker: The PO poked a hole like that in my fuel locker and then stuffed some silicone in it - that didn't work. I installed a merlon thru-hull fitting with the pipe pointing up. I clamped a short piece of flexible hose to it that extended above the top of the fuel locker. After I ran the cables through, I doubled the tubing over creating a crimp in the hose and tied it with a plastic cable tie.

Another option would be to install [url="http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_23099_200002004_200000000_200002000_200-2-4"]one of these [/url] under the stern pulpit seat.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 22:31:49

Bubba,
I was able to find a Garelick 71090 for $202 new at Fisheries Supply. So instead of waiting for a possible deal for a used one, and spending $40 in fuel and three hours driving to get there and back (75 miles away), I decided to just get the new one. I also bought as big of a cable clam as I could find for the cable. Originally I'd bought some plumbing supplies to make a pipe similar to what you describe, but thought that the pipe was too flimsy after considering it for a while. Your link doesn't work, so I'm not sure what you were trying to show me.

I did try to wedge it out as far as it'd go, but I could only get the tiller handle to just clear reliably, but never the shifter handle when it was in forward. It would always hit the round down.

Does anyone have a picture of their installation with a Garelick bracket? I'm currently working on a CAD drawing to figure out where best to mount it. Their instructions don't exactly work for our boats. I'm probably going to just mount the bracket nearly as high as it can go, which -should- let me get the prop out of the water w/o tilting, and still have it submerged by more than a foot (nor more cavitation!) when at full extension. We'll see though. I ran out of steam about an hour ago, and I'm a bit fried from being in the sun today, so the CAD drawing is taking more time than it should. A picture of a functional install would help a lot.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 00:14:49

OK, after dinner & a lot of water, my brain stopped being so fuzzy. Here's what I'm looking at for the install:

As you can see, I can't quite clear the prop out of the water even at full extension and mounted almost as high as it can go, so I might as well mount it lower so I can get the prop deeper into the water at full compression.

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frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 09:06:12

Check this thread out from the archives, it may answer your questions on both counts. I used the trolling motor plug to allow for easy engine removal for maintenance.

http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true& TOPIC_ID=10465& SearchTerms=engine

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John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 09:37:10

Sorry, I don't have any pictures but you're right, the prop does not clear the water when it's up. In fact, it's completely submerged at the highest point. I wish I had a better memory for details. I don't even recall if the upper mounting bolts for the Garelick are in the cockpit or below. But, I THINK (????) they're in the cockpit. I'll be at the boat on Tuesday for launch (Hurray!) and I'll try to remember to look. I'll also try to remember also to take my camera and post a photo.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 09:56:29

Jerry,
Thanks for the link. I can see now why others with older Tohatus didn't have as much of a problem. The gear shifter on the older ones is much thinner than mine. Mine is more like a paddle than they are, much wider, so it always hits.

John,
Thanks for the update. I plan to take closer measurements this morning to gauge whether I actually can get the prop out of the water if I mount the bracket as high as I can. If so, it seems worth it to be able to get the engine out of the water completely w/o having to tilt it. This would be useful for when you're sailing to reduce the drag, something I've really never bothered with before.

I like the idea of the trolling motor electrical attachment, I'll noodle on that for a while. I also like the cable clam idea for it's simplicity.

Has anyone ever made a link that goes forward of the engine, attached directly to the boat's tiller instead of the rudder? I was thinking about this last night because the Tohatsu has these really convenient holes drilled into the carry handle that could be used for an attachment point. The tiller provides you with tons of leverage, so you should be able to attach the link directly to it, instead of the rudder. Much easier to attach & detach since it's actually in the cockpit with you. I can foresee a problem when turning to port maybe, but I don't have a good handle on the geometry yet. Could probably even attach it directly to the autopilot pivot. I'll be looking at that once I have the engine mounted.

Edited by - delliottg on 04/13/2008 09:57:04

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