Association Forum - Deck Stanchion specifications

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Capri 25 Specific Forum

Deck Stanchion specifications

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

joearcht
Navigator

Member Avatar

USA
241 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/21/2008 : 16:07:08

I just put a new genoa on my boat and I've noticed that the sail really wants to lay ackwardly against the stanchions just forward of the mast.
That started me thinking and inspecting the stanchions and now I'm suspicious that they may be bent inboard somewhat more than they should be. It sure seems like if they were bent outboard the same angle that they are bent inboard now then the sail would lay better (on a beat) and not potentially wear as bad. I can always put some wear panels on the sail (my old sail had them) but thought there might be another solution. Anyone got an opinion on this or similar experiance/solution?

Joe W Hiller Jr
1985 Capri 25
Hull #433

Edited by - on

my_tahoe_too
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 11:27:12

Just for what's its worth: All the stanchions were 'busted' off MT2 when I purchased her. I have never regretted not having stanchions forward as the wear and tear on the canvas is brutal - what with skirting and all that. I am very interested in re-storing the aft life lines and stanchions in terms of something to lean against 'to weather'. The current plan is to install the corners and perhaps just two stanchions ending @ the chain plates so as not to interfere with the head sail(s). Will be going to Minneys Yacht surplus in Long Beach in a couple of weeks as they seem to hold everything Catalina surplus in huge piles and railing etc is part of the deal (or is that pile?). I'm looking for some input re: height of lines (read stanchions) to best accommodate the driver and trimmer and maybe rail meat to the chain plates. Any ideas?

Edited by - on

Pirate Princess
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
37 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 18:35:50

Doghouse,

I am just jealous that you have access to a yacht surplus. The only surplus in boating stuff we have around here is fishing and powerboats and waverunners. Maybe we should all give you our shopping list! All of my stanchions are intact so I am not much help. It will be interesting to see what others have done.

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 19:39:57

Check these out

http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d90000/e89611.asp

Edited by - on

my_tahoe_too
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2008 : 18:46:48

Those are cool. But i think im just going to the chain plates so the skirting and what not is reduced. Thank u Chris. And PP, keep working on yours and eventually you'll have your OWN surplus - we all do, believe me.

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
241 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2008 : 08:39:07

My stanchions are 18" tall and have a trapzoidal base plate. The are definitely canted in board about 5 degrees which makes them a severe interference with a close hauled genoa. I checked the Minney's ebay site and all I could find on that site was a 24" stanchion with 0 degrees of cant (may have some 18" just not online).
The 18" height seems to work good along the cockpit for us. I don't know if a 24" stanchion would be better or not.

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
241 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2008 : 08:48:53

www.railmakers.com
These guys seem to have a model that is an exact match for what is on my boat, except for the angle that mine are canted inboard. I still think mine are bent.

Edited by - on

1981capri
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
175 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2008 : 12:02:07

There's not a chance that they are on backwards is there? Maybe someone took them off to rebed them and put them back on wrong???

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
241 Posts

Response Posted - 05/12/2008 : 06:32:51

I would swap them in an instance if not for the trapezoidal base. The hole pattern is not symmetrical, therefore to reverse the stanchion I'd have to patch old holes and drill new ones.
I'm not inclined to do that just yet.

Edited by - on

my_tahoe_too
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/12/2008 : 13:56:17

Oh, come on now! Where is that spirit of adventure. Its just epoxy and filler.
It's not like these boats don't have holes in them - is it? I started ownership repairing the 8" dia. gash where the bow pulpit used to anchor to the deck. PO used Duck tape. what-da-hey!?

//sd

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
241 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2008 : 06:19:25

How did you get the name "doghouse"? (too much time on the water according to the wife I guess).
Your right, my boat is nothing to look at. Raced hard and put up wet all it's life. PO didn't give a hoot about esthetics, just slammed epoxy putty everywhere there was a chip or crack.
She will never be pristine and new again, but I'm going to make an effort to "only" improve her, not disfigure any further.

Edited by - on

my_tahoe_too
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2008 : 09:59:35

That, Captain, is a fine methodology. It seems we own the same boat! While the origin of the name is from my Uncle, the reason(s) are the same - as in 'always in, never out of' with family. But thats another story for another time. I'll be doing the research to re-paint topsides. Any ideas/ suggestions or is that another thread?

//dh

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
241 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2008 : 18:11:46

My attention will go to the hull before the topsides. My boat is sufficiently scared that I think it will need to be top coated with something. I'm going to attempt to do the work myself, so right now I'm building a shelter to house the operation. As for the deck. I have a two tone deck grey on grey. I had an experiance with my previous boat, an insurable accident (tree fell on it, "big" tree). I had a professional boat repair shop that was experianced in fiberglass work make the repairs. They did an admirable job considering the damage, but the non skid re-work just couldn't be matched according to my eyes. I've also tried one gelcoat repair on this boat myself and found that matching colors on an old boat is a pain that I'd just as soon avoid. That said, I will probably look at some sort of texture coating for the top sides when the time comes and just coat over the existing non-skid along with all of the repair scars. Probably not the cheapest route, but I believe I'll end up with a more valuable boat in the end.

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2008 : 22:41:16

Before going with paint, I re-gelcoated the non-skid. It was way too easy and only took an hour to do all of the deck. I wil go thru a simple list of stuff to do the job, and the rest is up to you guys. I might as well write this because I need another tech tip for the Mainsheet.

1. work in small sections of the non-skid, I purchased a quart can of white gelcoat, and the small tubes of color to match the color- take the can down into the cabin and stir up the white in the can, then add small amounts of brown, and yellow to get the Catalina tan color.

take a small dab on your finger and match the color to the gelcoat in the sump or the floor, it will be the best place to make a match on the true color of the boat, and after a couple of years the UV should take this color back to the faded color we all know.

This will be the can you will use for all of the non-skid for the rest of the project. One can should do the job with enough left over for any touch-up down the road.

The plain white gelcoat is almost an exact match for the white. No color mixing needed

2. Tape off the non-skid area. I used the blue 3M tape.
3. Clean the area to be covered with acetone, if you think its clean, do it one more time just to make sure.
4. Take a small amount of the gelcoat (small dixey cup) and mix the MEKP into the mix.
5. I used a small roller to apply the gelcoat, I poured a small amount of gelcoat onto the deck then took the roller and covered the area. Work fast you only have 4 to 5 min.
6. after you have a good coating apply PVA, (polyvinyl alchol)to the gelcoat for a final cure, I took a windex bottle and put the PVA into it, the peval sprayers didnt work at al for me. remove the tape as the gelcoat cures, dont wait untill the final cure is set.
7. Move on to the next area, be sure to not block yourself onto the deck.

I have had the deck covered over the repairs I did 3 years now and there is no peeling, or spots on the new gelcoated non-skid areas. I am very happy with the results.

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2008 : 23:05:36

Non-Skid repair

I searched the net for a good 3 months before taking the grinder to the deck and hull, I wanted to make sure that I wasn't going to really mess the job up, but for the people out there that could mess it up it does happen, and the easy thing about fiberglass is that you can alway start back at the begining, grind it back out. I know this very well.

So you need to fix your non-skid. The best method of doing the work and making it look almost factory is to make a mold. I sent off for the rubber non-skid repair stuff, and at the cost it was not realistic.

So off we go.

1. clean the non-skid area that you will make the mold from. I used the area directly accross from the reapair spot. The damaged area was on starboard so my mold came from the port side. use acetone to clean the area that the mold will be pulled from.

2. Use PVA, (polyvinyl alchol) and coat this area several times to assure that the polyester resin will not stick to your deck. I used 3 coats taking about 45 min for the PVA to set- read the directions on the bottle.

3. mix up some polyester resin with the MEKP, and apply this over the non-skid area, you are making a mold so make it larger that the repair area.

4. after 3 coats of the resin I started applying 2 to 3 layers of glass into the mix. I did this 3 to 4 times making a thick fiberglass plank.

5. the final layer was glass and a thin piece of balsa wood, after all of this cooks on your deck remove the mold from the deck. this is your female mold to make the non-skid out of.

Repaired Area.

Next is the repair, I took a router and used a 1/4" flat bit, I set the depth at 1/16 to 1/8". I removed the gelcoat non-skid area that needed to be repaired. This will give you some what of a dam to pour your gelcoat into with out it running all over the place.

1. apply the PVA onto your newly made mold, use 3 coats as before.
2. clean the repair area with acetone.
3. appy PVA at the edges of the repair, you should have a clean line around this area from the router. The PVA will allow easy cleanup of gelcoat that creeps out from the mold onto the deck.
4. start applying gelcoat into the void, do 3 to 4 layers. each time do not use the PVA, you want to have several thin layers of tacky gelcoat to apply the final coat.
5. Final coat - pour gelcoat into the void left, then take the mold and put the mold onto the deck. weight the mold down with several heavy objects. I used 4 12 volt battery's.
6. let the gelcoat cook for 20 to 30 min over the recomended time. remove the mold, then trim up and ruff edges.
7. fill any small cracks left behind from the mold. and apply a thin layer of gelcoat from the thread above.
8. Apply PVA over the finished gelcoat for a hard cure.

It's lots of work, but if you take your time the project is well worth the time.

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
241 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2008 : 07:23:07

Good info Chris, You got guts to tackle that grinding and molding job. My non-skid damage is limited to just chips or sratches. I like the gelcoat re-coating idea, but my non-skid is NOT white. It is a medium to darker grey and very faded. The top deck and hull is even a light grey, it definitely does not match the white gel-coat I used to repair the mast base area. (I even added a bit of black to try to tone it a little but I was not very successful). Inside liner sounds like it matches yours (biege). I guess if I redo all of the non-skid I can change the color slightly. That will be a job down the road aways, I've got too many other little things to fix first.

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
241 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2008 : 13:41:23

Back to Stanchions. I contacted Dave at Railmakers of California (949-642-6506). He was an off and on supplier of Rails for Catalina over the years. He could not confirm if he made the rails on my boat, but he was very familiar with the design. He sold me some replacement 18" stanchions for $33.00 each plus shipping and handling. He confirmed that the original stanchions should have had a 90 degree base plate and then cant outboard due to the camber in the deck. I think this will move the top of my stanchion about 3" outboard when replaced. This should make a noticalbe difference in how the Genoa skirts on a beat. I may even experiment with a wedge under the mounting plate to cant it outboard a little more if I still don't like the way the sail lays.
I've considered doing away with the lifeline like MT2, but since I added a foil to the headstay, when I drop a foresail there is very little to keep it on deck in a blow. Currently I have netting between the live line and deck which works good for containing the sail and I think I want to keep that dispite the interuption to the smooth flow of the sail.

Edited by - on

my_tahoe_too
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2008 : 15:02:22

Captain: would you be kind enough to describe how the rear (aft) pulpit(s) fit. Since I will only be going as far fwd. as the chain plates, as described above, I have some idea what i would like to have, but don't really know what's "off the shelf" and what is $33 /ea. Traveling south to Minneys surplus next week to see what damage i can do there, but if the $ is the same as from RailMakers, and they are just down the road from Minneys - "what-da-hay?"

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
241 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2008 : 07:35:32

How about a couple of pics?
I don't know how to post pictures on this forum even though I've seen it done by others.
But send my your email and I'll reply with some pictures.
(worth a thousand words)

Edited by - on

my_tahoe_too
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2008 : 12:53:11

Capt Joe, you've got mail. . .

//sd

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.