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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I got no response on the general forum rubrail topic so I thought I would post here.
I'm going to be upgrading the bow stem fitting on my 1980 c25 sr/fk. I'm assuming that I will need to remove the original rubrail to do this since the new fitting extends below the rubrail. Am I going to wish I had a new rubrail to put back on when I am done?
Does the rubrail go outside of the fitting or does it have to be cut on either side?
A previous owner of my boat installed the upgraded stem fitting and it appears he carefully dremel'd/notched the back side of the aluminum rub rail enough to be able to slip the new stem fitting through without having to remove the rubrail.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />A previous owner of my boat installed the upgraded stem fitting and it appears he carefully dremel'd/notched the back side of the aluminum rub rail enough to be able to slip the new stem fitting through without having to remove the rubrail. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That was pretty creative . I'll have to look into that. My boat 2 hours from home so I'm trying to gather some good info prior to my next trip.
Has anyone else attempted this upgrade? What else should I know about the stem fitting upgrade and rubrail before digging in?
I'll be spending this summer on the hard. I'm partly overcommitted from a time perspective and partly affected by the economy. I'll be applying the slip fees I'm not spending on a few projects, the stem fitting being one of them. You'll probably see more project-related posts from me over the summer.
My list so far: Rewire the mast Rewire fuse panel Add anchor light Install VHF radio and antenna Install a larger blackwater tank Install a second battery Install battery charging system Add an electric pump for the galley sink (to keep the admiral happy) Keel maintenance (cracks in fairing compound, "smile" repair, paint) Rudder rehab Bow stem upgrade New shrouds and turnbuckles (some bent some broken wires) Switch to all-rope halyards Upgrade spreader brackets Replace "to-hulls" with through hulls
Anyone taking bets on how far I get with this list Mast upgrades and standing rigging are the top priorities. The other projects are on the wish list.
I better get back to work...
Thanks, Todd Live in Twin Cities, MN '80 C25 SR/FK "Dora" is high and dry at my outlaws place in Siren, WI
My rub rail was modified when the new bow roller/stem fitting was installed. It has to be cut on both sides. I'm going to try cleaning it up - per a tip rec'd here, using goo-gone. This is the original 1981 rubrail, and it is dirty. I was thinking of replacing it but decided to try cleaning it first. I expected that you would have gotten a lot of replies from your posting in 'All Forums'. It was a post that I was interested in hearing replies on. Not sure why it did not gather any repsonses, because it was definitely the right place to start.
As you will see and hear here, a dremel tool is an excellent thing to have with you on projects.
My suggestion regarding your lengthy list is: don't let it stop you from going sailing. The rigging, to-hulls and rudder are all safety issues , so if it were me, I'd have those at the top of the list and the rest would fall under a 'when I get to it' category. When I first got my boat, I had a list that would have kept me on the hard until next year. I love working on my boat, but I prefer sailing it.
caution - opinion ahead --- As for adding a second battery - I replaced the two duds that came with my boat, with two big honk'n 12 volt deep cycle batteries that cost about $190 each. Turns out it was a big waste of money. I rarely use my house batteries. I switched all my house lights to LED puck lights that use rechargable AA batteries. My entertainment system is an IPOD that uses AA's. The only thing that uses the house batteries are the running lights, which also run off the OB, and my VHF, which rarely gets used because I sail mostly on a lake.
I strongly suggest that you only repair what must be repaired for safety reasons and leave the rest until you've used the boat enough to know how systems will work for you.
I have changed my mind from my original thoughts about the electrical system, the 'head' system, water storage system and the sails.
I have a lengthy list of 'to do's' but there are only two things that are on my 'must do' list: Clean and polish hull, refinish all exterior woodwork, oil and tune-up OB.
I like having two batteries. With an inverter, I keep the laptop and assorted other rechargeables up and the occasional TV or DVD at anchor can can seriously suck on a battery. And lithium rechargeables are great for the little things. Plus, it is an easy upgrade, but it all depends on how you use your boat.
On my '82 I was able to tuck it behind the rub rail after dremmeling the top of the rail just a little to get a large screw out. It was an easy project, my problem was lining it up straight on the deck!
I guess a Dremmel is the answer to a lot of questions. I've seen it mentioned in quite a few maintenance topics. I'll use some of the money that I don't spend on a new rubrail for a Dremmel and a can of Goof Off!
Pix and feedback were great! Much appreciated.
I'll do the math before I make the decision on the second battery. We'd like to do some 5-7 day trips without a recharge. This is also the reason for the bigger holding tank...
Your list looks really familiar, I did a lot of the same things you did. What you didn't say is how many years you have alotted to yourself to do them! I'm starting my fourth season, currently adding electric start to the engine, adding the third gudgeon, fixing keel gouges (in the work I did the first season) and getting ready to build my own balanced rudder. Teh P.O. of my boat had added a pump for the fresh water, but installed it poorly and the water had frozen in the housing and cracked it. I had to repair and remount it, and replace the faucet. Rewiring my fuse panel ended up being a replacement of the original panel with two new ones for the added junk on the boat (water pump, auto pilot, radio, stereo/disc player)and rewiring the two batteries with a new master switch. Anyway, you get the picture, the to-do list is a living, breathing thing and you can always find time to work on it, but Stampeder's letter above is right on, do the safety issues first, and then try to prioritize the list, with sailing the boat always on the top.
Here is my [url="http://www.sailblogs.com/member/justinc25/?xjMsgID=31799"]site[/url] where I posted this project last summer. A Dremel works well to cut out a slot for the tang to fit through. You will also have to bevel out the aluminum rub rail in order to remove the forward screw. Note that you will have to keep the lower tang mostly straight until you slip it through. Then you will have to bend it to fit flush with the hull. My friend Dave came up with a good idea to help bend the tang. Used a 2x4 with some metal pipes bolted through to give leverage. I placed a piece of cardboard against the hull to prevent abrasion which can barely be seen. This tool bent it to shape most of the way, the rest I used a rubber mallet and banged the rest to shape.
You'll also want to get some epoxy putty to reinforce the backing plate in the anchor locker:
I go into more detail on my site, but it's not too difficult. I would recommend finding a helper because it would be very difficult to bolt it down, especially the bolts on the lower tang without a second person.
To avoid grinding the rubrail to remove the screw from the old stem fitting, if possible, I'd be inclined to grind/dremel the stem fitting in half just above the rubrail or close to the screw so maybe a hacksaw blade/recipricating saw can cut the screw off between the stem fitting and bow.
The photos are great. I also took a look at you site. You have a lot of good info there. It will be a handy resource.
Paul and Stampeder,
I will be focussing on the safety projects first, as you suggest. The rest will come in time. There will never be an empty list. That's just a fact of boat ownership.
I'm anxious to get started and all of your input has been of great help.
Although I have a second battery, if your are cash strapped you might be able to fine a small solar panel for less than the cost of a battery. You can keep your house/start battery trickle charged with it.
Good suggestion. I've never run out of battery over a weekend. But I'll be adding an anchor light and a VHF radio. I'll have to do the math and see if a second battery is really needed. Maybe the one battery and a solar panel will get me by.
Hey Don ! Tha guy (Dave) that had that boat with the ventilated/jaws style bow deck opening, his old marina settled with him by buying his boat and returning the maintenance fees after the altercation with the travel lift and he is now in my marina with one of those C-Dory mini-pilot house style boats. At least he was in my marina (about 4 slips away) until at least up to 2 weeks ago. I have not seen his boat or him and so not sure if he is having maintenance done somewhere or whatever.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.